Lifter noise is gone!!!

[Raceit]

This weekend I was able to get my valve clatter/lifter noise fixed. The problem I had was pretty bad. It made lots of noise regardless if the engine was cold or hot. And I'm pretty certin that the engine would have destroyed itself within a few hundred miles if the problem wasn't addressed when it was.
I took lots of pictures and will soon have a better write-up about the process I went though then what I have posted now. Feel free to take a look. (warning, there is about 1.5megs worth of pictures for the band-width challenged folks)
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I would also like to thank all the guys here that helped me along and pointed me in the right direction. If it wasn't for them this weekend project would have ended up with some paid mechanic working on it.

 

[Blaine122300]

I have the exact same explorer. I hope I don't have to do that to mine. Looks like a lot of work. Now I know what the inside of my engine looks like. were the lifters exact replacement, or did you go HI PERFORMANCE?

andy

 

[Raceit]

They were exact replacements. It was about $260 for just the parts. I bought what is called "take-off" parts. I figure the origionals lasted for 200K miles, these should last for another 100 Grand.
I got ripped on the gaskets. But half of them I had to buy at last minute in a town of about 1500 people, so I was lucky to even be able to buy them.
But this was a learning experiance for everyone involved with the project. If we did it over I'm sure it would go down to about 8 hours worth of work instead of 11.

 

[Rick]

Nice write up. I may be doing a top end job on mine soon.

With your permission could I use your article as part of the Explorer Tips section?

 

[JDraper]

Nice job!! That's the 1st motor I've seen that you had to remove the heads to get the lifters out! Surprised me on that one. As for your clatter on start up, I know that on the older motors with distributors, you can get things primed before start up by using a primer shaft which attaches to your drill. You stick it down into the oil pump through the hole where the distributor sits, and spin the pump for a few minutes to get oil circulating so you don't dry start the motor. I wonder if the same type of thing can be done with the distributorless motors. I don't have my repair manual here to check. If so, that would be the way to avoid a dry startup with collapsed lifters.

 

[Raceit]

Rick-
I'd be honered to have my write up posted on the Tips Section. But I'd like to write more info to what I already have. I'll update it within the next few days when I have some free time.

JDraper-
One thing I did notice with having the lower intake manifold removed was a rubber-looking plug where the distrubitor shaft would go. I didn't mess with it, but it looked like it could be removed and it would be primed with that. I was suprised to see it in the back of the block. Just like a GM motor.

Prior to rebuilding I found a web page that I found some usufull info on. Here is the link.

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It was talking about there being a few different heads, and blocks that can be used. Also worth mentioning here is that if you buy replacement heads make sure they match the block. Mis-matched heads can also cause pinging.

 

[Rick]

Sounds great, let me know when you have it done.

Rick

 

[TPLYNCH]

I have one word for you.... WOW! I cannot see myself doing that....

 

[Raceit]

Me neither. But luckily my step-dad is pretty good with this stuff and he has plenty of tools for the job.



I've updated the write up, so it's pretty final. Wheeew!

 

[SteveVB]

Looks Good

Good job, and your right about the cap on the rear of the engine - it is the oil pump drive and on later models the cam position sensor is located there. Its clamped like a distributor and sealed with an o-ring, remove the bolt and pull out the drive, and the oil pump drive shaft can be spun to check the oil pressure and pre lube the engine. I used a torx socket and an extension it was a little wobbly but it held together for what I did.

Congrats again

 

[RTStork]

Excellent writeup and pics!

 

[sudiew]

lifter job

great job with the instructions and the pictures!!
we just had to do the same thing on my sons 93 explorer.
i stopped by the ford garage first. the guys were very helpful.
just a note on the right bank exhaust. you can take it loose at the connection down below the headers where it hook up to the pipe if you wish. this eliminates the need to take all the exhaust manifold bolts loose.
i am not sure about the left side because we did not have to take that head off.
again, great job on the instructions and pictures, very easy to follow.
i hope it is still running well for you.
sudiew

 

[Rfidd]

Lifter noise too!!!

My 92 XLT developed intermittent lifter noise that became consistent. I talked to a Ford and they suggested with 144K that I should have them swap the engine for about $6,000. They didn't recommend just the lifters for mine. Anyway my engine was not great. Oil consumption was every 1,500 minles and a fluctuating oil pressure. Another mechanic said the lifter should not affect anything else and to just drive it. I opted the no action option. Well, after a few months the oil consumption dropped to a quart every 250 miles, don't know if it was related though. I opted to stick a used engine in. Found one for $600 and amazingly I was able to get mine out and the new one in. I took about three working days spread out over three weeks. So far, so good. JUst one problem, I have tried a couple of techniques to solve the coolant guage fluctuation. I guess it is trapped air. Any ideas?
Anyway, it sounds like your fix was cheaper. I was afraid to pull the heads and go into mine with all of the other problems. You took some great pictures and documentation. I just wish I had found this site before I tore into mine.
Rick

 

[Raceit]

-sudiew
Thanks for the comments! We oppted to take the exhaust manifolds off at the heads. Since we were dealing with lifting a heavy head out we didn't want some other heavy thing attached to catch on something. I think either way it could have been done. But I'm glad we took the exhaust manifolds off since it allowed us to install gaskets where there were none, for whatever reason.
But it's still running great and I think it will last another 100K miles. At which point I think the entire truck will just explode.

-Rfidd
Trapped air will make the coolant guage fluctuate quite a bit. But the thermostat opening and closing will also make the needle move back and forth every so often. When the engine is cold you can check the radiaitor and it should be full, if not go ahead and fill it to the top. If you check it a few days later when it's cold again and it's low, there might be a leak somewhere and it's pulling air in from somewhere.
Thanks for the comments too!

I'm glad that I can help out people if they are going to get into this themselves.

 

[MikeP]

Raceit
Great writeup and photos of your valve lifter repair work!!! Many thanks! My 91 XLT Explorer has a little lifter noise - especially when cold. Mike in Seattle

 

[TwoToneX]

11 hours over 3 days and only one six pack, I know I'm impressed! Great write-up!

 

[Raceit]

Heh, ya only one six pack. I think any more then that and we would have just been standing around looking at the engine just saying, yeep. (Much like the King of the Hill cartoon). :smoke: