Liftgate Issue After Keypad Came Off

[Michael Blackburn]

Wiring is included with the keypad. See the pic:

NEW OEM 11-19 Ford Explorer Front Door Window Trim Keyless Entry Pad LH Driver | eBay

NEW OEM 11-19 Ford Explorer Front Door Window Trim Basic Actuator Pad LH Driver Side. NEW OEM 2008-2012 Ford F-250, F-350 6.8L V10 Exhaust Manifold LEFT Driver's Side.

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You need to remove the inside door panel to access the plug.
Fritz

 

[TUSGJP]

Wiring is included with the keypad. See the pic:

NEW OEM 11-19 Ford Explorer Front Door Window Trim Keyless Entry Pad LH Driver | eBay

NEW OEM 11-19 Ford Explorer Front Door Window Trim Basic Actuator Pad LH Driver Side. NEW OEM 2008-2012 Ford F-250, F-350 6.8L V10 Exhaust Manifold LEFT Driver's Side.

www.ebay.com

You need to remove the inside door panel to access the plug.
Fritz

Has anyone replaced their Securicode panel with a plain Non Securicode panel? As stated above the price difference is quite a bit. I have had 2 of these panels just bake off on 2 different vehicles. The Arizona heat and low humidity are just brutal on cars here, I dont honestly see what is so enticing when someone is selling a used classsic car that it is a "Arizona Car". Yes not much snow or rain to deal with, but the heat and dryness are absolutely brutal to a car. Not to mention the packrats and the damage they do. Anyway my rant is over. Just wondering if I can get away with using a Non Securicode panel or not after I replace the #10 fuse.

 

[peterk9]

I don't believe anyone has done that. Also, I don't know if that would actually 'fix' the problem with the liftgate or if the system would be looking for that circuit. Have you tried fixing the damaged wire? I guess you could always make sure that the wire(s) aren't touching anything before replacing the fuse and then see if the liftgate will work.

Peter

 

[ianjensendesign]

Same issue as most … Securicode panel came off and then the Liftgate lost power. The 2 items share a fuse that shorts when the Securicode panel comes off.

Here is the fix that worked for me:
1. Here is the repair process for the trim. 3M double sided Auto trim tape the clips were not damaged for me (they are pretty pointless)
2. Then you can pull the fuse and pop it back in. (its a 5A Micro III Blade Fuse you may not need to replace it) its a pain to reach the Passenger compartment fuse box under the steering wheel. You may have to pull out the trim piece by the pedals.

You should have power back to the Securicode panel and the Liftgate.

 

[peterk9]

Same issue as most … Securicode panel came off and then the Liftgate lost power. The 2 items share a fuse that shorts when the Securicode panel comes off.

Here is the fix that worked for me:
1. Here is the repair process for the trim. 3M double sided Auto trim tape the clips were not damaged for me (they are pretty pointless)
2. Then you can pull the fuse and pop it back in. (its a 5A Micro III Blade Fuse you may not need to replace it) its a pain to reach the Passenger compartment fuse box under the steering wheel. You may have to pull out the trim piece by the pedals.

You should have power back to the Securicode panel and the Liftgate.

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't think that you've addressed the reason the fuse blew. The fuse won't have blown if there wasn't some kind of short created when the panel came off. Did you check the wiring before putting everything back together?

Peter

 

[Explorer9999]

My keypad blew off but is still connected by the wire. When this happen the keypad and the lift gate lost power. The lift gate shows ajar but it isn’t. Do I just need to replace the keypad?

 

[mmorey79]

You shorted a wire and blew the fuse, they're on the same fuse. You can disconnect the keypad and replace the fuse and/or replace the keypad. As much as I like the idea of the keypad we didn't use it the first year we owned the car and the pillar had a big chunk missing. I opted to replace it with the 35 dollar aftermarket non-keypad pillar piece and just cut the wires and insulated them (you can/should take the door panel off and unplug ideally but I was being lazy and the keypad was shot).

 

[peterk9]

My keypad blew off but is still connected by the wire. When this happen the keypad and the lift gate lost power. The lift gate shows ajar but it isn’t. Do I just need to replace the keypad?

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread was merged with this one found using the 'Search' feature in the upper right.
As mentioned, the Securicode keypad has caused problems with the liftgate, usually due to the shorting of the wires.

Peter

 

[enro1104]

Yesterday while driving on the freeway the side door panel where the touch key number pad is located pulled away from the door. We taped it back against the door with duct tape and it held. However now the liftgate will not open. Cannot be opened by pushing the button on the dash, or pushing the button on the outside of the liftgate. will not open using button on Fob. We took out the little silver key from the Fob and looked for a key hole on the outside of the liftgate in hopes of unlocking it that way, but can't find one. I guess the door panel section that tore away has the wiring that also controls the liftgate. We are able to unlock the car and get in using the Fob, but cannot open the liftgate. It seems to be permanently locked.

What did you do to fix this? It just happened to us too. Exactly the same problem.

 

[peterk9]

What did you do to fix this? It just happened to us too. Exactly the same problem.

Welcome to the Forum.
FYI, the member you quoted was last seen here on November 8, 2017.
Have a look at fuse #69 in the engine bay fuse box. It's a 30A fuse for the power liftgate. Sometimes when the securicode panel comes off like that it can short a couple of the wires.

Peter

 

[cobraco]

Just to add more clarification, I had the same issue of the panel blowing off on the highway. I seems when my car was repaired and repainted they broke the push pin on the top of it but the double sided tape held up for about 5 years. When the securicode panel came loose the wires were rubbing on the hole they go through rubbed the insulation off while flapping arpound and shorted within a minute or two. That blew the number 10/11 dual micro 3 fuse in the inside fuse block under the steering column. I pulled the door panel and removed the securicode trim panel that came loose and taped up the wires, but I think I will replace it so the new one at least has the push pins (one star and two slotted) that broke on the old one. Replace the 10/11 5 amp fuse fixed the hatch not opening and the hatch open warning.

 

[peterk9]

^^Welcome to the Forum.
I believe this is the part you will need. Original 2011-2019 Ford Applique DB5Z-7820555-AC | Levittown Ford Parts
Levittown is a forum vendor and offers members a discount on parts.

Peter

 

[mwikcox96]

Welcome to the Forum Silvia.
The Securicode or keyless entry panel only serves to lock/unlock the doors. It doesn't do anything else. The key blade will only lock/unlock the driver's door and glove box.
I don't see how the 2 incidents could be connected since even with all the doors locked you should still be able to open the liftgate in the ways you described. Have you verified that the keypad does still work?

Peter

I have the exact same issue. As soon as the door panel came off the door my liftgate ajar light came on and now will not open

 

[peterk9]

I have the exact same issue. As soon as the door panel came off the door my liftgate ajar light came on and now will not open

Welcome to the Forum.
Have you checked the fuse (#30) for the power liftgate in the engine bay Power Distribution Box? If it is 'good', then there is a good chance that the wiring from the keypad may be damaged.

Peter