Locker Questions

[Asugolf14]

Alright, I have some questions on lockers. I have done a search, but haven't been able to find the answers. First of all, I go 4x4ing close to once a week, maybe once every two weeks. I am wondering, first of all, should I get a locker for the front, for the back, or both. The second question is I am wondering which kind of locker to get. I don't want an ARB just because I have heard of all the problems with them, and I don't want to spend that much money. But I am wondering what is best in your opinions, a locker, even though you my have some driving problems with it, or something like a trac-lok. Any help or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[sirhk100]

To get the most advantage out of it put it in the rear. Most of the time you need it is either in a off camber situation or uphill when a majority of your weight is to the back of the vehicle. You could put one in both ends but if you just want one you will get better performance by putting it in the rear. I have a Jeep with one in the rear and it'll go anywhere. In those off camber situations where opposite wheels are in the air and you're stuck it won't get stuck anymore, now it keeps going. Honestly I put a cage in after the locker cause now it'll just drive itself right over as long as one rear tire is still on the ground, in fact it has once. I have a lock right in the rear of the Jeep and it's on road habits are definately noticable. You have to know how to drive with it in and it's funny when friends drive it cause they can't get through a parking lot with out looking like they're learning to drive.

 

[Ray Lobato]

Asugolf14,
I agree with sirhk100, the if you are only going to get one, put it in the back. I see you're from snow country. I know you've heard about the ARB problems, but I have one of the NEW AIR LOCKERS from them and don't have any problems so far. The thing about the ARB is you can unlock it, so no worries about cherping around a corner or going straight when your are trying to turn in the snow. Just my .02

 

[Asugolf14]

Yeah, I live in snow country. I would love to get an ARB, but the price is kind of out of my range. I am 17 years old right now, so the income is kind of limited. Are there any lockers for the rear that don't change the driving such as a trac-lok? Thanks for the info.

 

[GJarrett]

You can click on "Gerald's Truck" in my signature line below to link to my registry. Page down to my second post which is an article. Toward the end of it is a chapter on You will learn my experience with the Powertrax NoSlip.

If the ARB is out of your budget, the most street-friendly locker made is the Powertrax NoSlip. If you are willing to accept a limited slip the 8.8 TracLoc is very efficient.

 

[ExplorerEB96]

Well isn't this a kick

I happen to know of someone that is getting rid of the 8.8 trac-loc Want me to get ya a price?

Karol

 

[Asugolf14]

ExplorerEB96-sure, check on the price for me-how old is it, and why is he getting rid of it??

How much are powertrax no-slips and where can you find them??

Thanks guys!!

 

[ExplorerEB96]

well

as far as how old it is... I don't know

as far as why he is getting rid of it... well he went with the Auburn in the rear... so he didn't need it..... but it is for a 28 spline so I'm not sure what you have...

as far as powertrax no slips they are at their website but you will have to call them for prices and distributors

Dead Link Removed

Karol

 

[SteveVB]

ASUGOLF

The No Slip is about 400.00, and if you have the time, can read, change a tire, have a 1/2"socket, and an 8mm wrench you can install it yourself. So the cost will be 400, with the trac lock or Auburn the carrier has to be removed and the gears reset so it will cost another 250-350 for installation of a trac loc, + the cost of the unit. If you buy a used unit make sure you get new clutch pacs installed.

Try Summit, National Tire and Wheel, Drivetrain direct etc. as a source.

All Explorers have 31 spline rears.

The No-slip is a locker and handles as such in the snow and ice, but adfter you drive it once or twice you know the handling characteristics. I have one in my rear axle and have some snow miles -both on and off road- on it and it works great. It doesnt drive like an open diff, but it does let you do and go farther than you thought you could (or sometimes should) go.

 

[Asugolf14]

SteveVB- so there is no way to install a trac-lok by yourself?? A freind of mine is really into cars and has helped me install quite a few things in my car, is there anyway we could do it? Cause I don't really have $400 to spend right now, but if that is what I have to do to get a good product like a no slip, then I'll wait. Thanks for all the info!!

 

[SteveVB]

dial indicator, press

Installing the Trac Loc would require a bunch of knowledge, and some special tools. You have to reset the gears since you are installing a new carrier(the trac lock) At a min you would need a Dial indicator, a press for the bearings, maybe a few others, and some gear set up knowledge. Im pretty mechanical (Ive rebuilt engines, can do most mechanical repairs on my vehicles when I want to, even had an ownership stake in a machine shop- prototypes not auto related) and I take diff work to a pro.- the drop in lockers like the No-Slip, Lock rite, and the EZ lock? are well within most shade tree mechanics skill set. It took me a couple of hours, and most of that time was spend refilling the diff fluid!

The no slip is around 400, but the EZ locker, and the powertrax original are in the 250 range I think- they are a bit more locker like but lots of people use them for light to moderate duty off roading and I havent heard too many complaints. Might want to check into them if the 400 bones are the issue.( when are they not??)

 

[Asugolf14]

Alright, thanks for all the info Steve!! I guess it sounds like I will be waiting for the money for the no-slip. Thanks