Lockers, and radius arms. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Lockers, and radius arms.

meterman1976

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City, State
spokane, washinton
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT
ok guys 2 questions, im sure they have been awnsered 1000 times before, but i couldnt find what im looking for..

ok First im looking for longer radius arms.. they ask for lift size, i have a 3 inch body lift and a 3 inch suspension lift..so would i go with ^ inches of lift, or go with just the 3 inch suspension lift?

and secound, i want a front locker.. thinking about going with an assie locker.. but people here tell me i have to have one in the back if i have one in the front.. is that true? id rather be pulled around than pushed. and i have talked to people that just have them in the front and love it.
 



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They are only concernsed about the suspension lift when they are talking about the arms.. Not sure why they are asking what size lift for Radius arms.. For cut/turned beams I could understand..

As for the locker.. Most people run a rear locker first.. Some people like a locker up front first (Rockranger for example ran a locker up front first)..

The issue with a front locker is that it will make it hard to turn tight corners.. Ask Tbars4 about tight turns.. he had fun with them in truckhaven ditches..

If you go with a selectable locker then that isn't an issue..

Also, the rear end is stronger than the front (in general) so a locker in the rear won't cause quite a much breakage as it can in the front..

~Mark
 






I thought you already had a rear locker... Or was that someone else?
Rear locker first is better IMHO, it takes a lot of load off of your front axle.
 






...:wtf:...Everyone still uses me as the guy with the aussie in front when it comes to turning..lol..it's all good...:D

...But everything the Maniak tells you is the truth...

...I noticed you didn't mention what brand of RA's you are looking at...:scratch:

...Before you invest in Radius arms you might also want to take the time to read this current thread...;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234700
 






yes i have been keeping up on that for my RA's.. im looking at making my own, just still seeing how much longer i should make them..

ok so i should get a rear locker first.. is aussie a good locker for the rear? i really dont want to go with an air locker or anything yet, maybe in the future but not now.
 






...Aussie is a great locker...:biggthump

...Having an Aussie locker in the rear would be great...(and I still love my Aussie up front too, just wish at times it was selectable..:rolleyes: ) There are several threads on here that go into debate over front or rear for lockers...

...I think the long arms are about 37" from mounting point to mounting point...:scratch:
 






ok thanks, i will go with an aussie, just need to figure out up front or in the back..lol im still thinking front, but ill do some more reading.


wow 37 from point to point.. and i was only thinking about maybe 12 inches longer than stock... but i guess go big or go home..
 






...I would suggest put the Aussie in the rear to begin with...You can't go wrong starting there...:burnout:

...Do you have a LS or open rear end???...:scratch:...If you have an LS you will need to swap in an open carrier so you may want to start hunting one down..
 






I love my Aussie up front, and my trutrax in the back. As far as tighter turning is concerned just unlock one hub, then lock it in if you need it. it makes your turning radius much shorter. And you are still running in 3 wheel drive most of the time.
 






...There is some error in that thought...:dunno:

...If your aussie is engaged, unlocking your hub will not allow you to turn any better...You still need to disengage the locker and depending on the terrain, it may take some extra maneuvering that you just don't have and a selectable up front would cure this...

...As for getting out and unlocking a hub on trails to turn, not always the easiest thing to do...

...I need to make a hard right turn to go up this hill...not happening...
attachmentgf7.jpg


...Hitch dragging , hard left turn now, aussie unhooked and hooked backup on it's own so it was no problem...
th1hy6.jpg


...(in sequence)...You climb up this to find the following...All doable with the aussie as long as you can finnesse it to unhook at the right time...Otherwise, turning can add the words extreme or this sucks, to a day of fun wheeling...(note: I also came back down this, but from the other direction in the first picture..Sharp left turn)

attachmentjs4.jpg


2383179550089462589hnenww2.jpg


2589242290089462589frmznd5.jpg


...I do love my aussie but there are times when a selctable up front would be well worth the money...Not to mention, tight switchbacks on a cliffs :eek: edge takes on an excitement all it's own, ....:D
 






ok thanks, i will go with an aussie, just need to figure out up front or in the back..lol im still thinking front, but ill do some more reading.


wow 37 from point to point.. and i was only thinking about maybe 12 inches longer than stock... but i guess go big or go home..

Most peoples and companies are 12-15" longer than stock not 37", just depends if you want to modify your tranny crossmember or not.
 






Most peoples and companies are 12-15" longer than stock not 37", just depends if you want to modify your tranny crossmember or not.

...:scratch:..Stock radius arms are about 21" and my Superlift arms are 37"...If you add 12"-15", you are right about there...
 






I thought he was talking about the radius arms being 37" longer than stock for a total of around 58".
If your making extended ones I think 12" over stock are about as much as you can go before you get into the transmission crossmember but dont qoute me.
 






ok so today i ordered my aussie locker for the rear.. so now just need to find out if my carrier is open, and if its not to get one.. also have a new rear end cover comming.. so i think the rear end is taken care of for now..

as the front end.. need to get the RA"S made, and do my tie rod ends and uper and lower ball joints, and all new bushings, and i should be good to go, at least i hope... is there anything elese in the front end i should look at?
 






If you look at the sticker on the door, where it says axle code if the number starts with a D then its limited slip, if it starts with a number then its open.
Example:
D4=3.73 L/S
44=3.73 open
 






other than being readily acceptable of a locker i havnt been in a situation where an open diff was of any use. guess thats Ford's way of telling me to get a locker, or switch out to a LS rear end. the latter is cheaper, go me.
 






It might be too late, but I would say if you have a LS rear, put the locker in the front first. That's what I did and it worked great. Yeah, its harder to turn, so what... I then replaced my LS rear axle with a welded rear, now its hard to turn!
 






i have thought about it up front still, but is that not where all the wear links are?what would i need to besure to strengthen up?
 






Manual hubs is the main thing. I was pretty hard on mine with the locker and 33s with stock 3.73 gear. Now its 5.13. I havent really abused it yet, but thats a lot of torque on the driveline and I havent broken anything...yet.
 



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ok so i finally looked, and its a LS, so i need to find an open one..and if i cant find out in a couple weeks, ill order a front aussie locker.. that way i can keep looking for the rear carrier..

and yes the first thing i did was install manual hubs when i got the X.

Right now the X is a good trail rig as it is, keeps impressing me more and more everytime i go out. just want to beef things up so i can do more with it.
 






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