Long time creeping, finally NEEDING bearing help

[jpettibone5592]

So I'm grateful for this site have been using it since I got my first gen for literally everything I didn't have a clue about. But I have finally gone crazy enough to have to post. Truck is literally eating bearings up I'm getting 2 days max with minimal driving, starts off great ends up the same way inners absolutely destroyed please tell me that it's something I'm doing wrong or something else wrong potentially to look at. It's a 94 xlt 4x4.

 

[jpettibone5592]

So I'm grateful for this site have been using it since I got my first gen for literally everything I didn't have a clue about. But I have finally gone crazy enough to have to post. Truck is literally eating bearings up I'm getting 2 days max with minimal driving, starts off great ends up the same way inners absolutely destroyed please tell me that it's something I'm doing wrong or something else wrong potentially to look at. It's a 94 xlt 4x4.

 

[TeeRecks]

I had this issue on a FWD car. I was tapping the bearing in with a hammer and cracked the race, leading to premature failure. Used a piece of wood as a softener, all good.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Which brand do you use?

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site.

 

[410Fortune]

Either you are not setting the pre
Load properly or something is severely worn out and needs replaced

The spindle could be worn
The lock ring washer / jamb nut could be moving and not holding tight

Does this 94 have auto hubs or manual?

We need details
The knuckle u joints, inner spindle bearings, and all wheel bearing hardware must be in good shape

 

[RangerX]

I moved your thread into the first Gen section.
The more details you give, the better we can help.

 

[Brian1]

What size tires? What width are your tires? Wheels stick out really far (shallow backspacing)? Wheel spacers? Are you using matched races with your bearings? I ask the last question because aftermarket rotors that come with pre-installed races are not the greatest quality, I always pound out those new races and swap in the matched Timken races for my Timken bearings (p/n SET37).

 

[410Fortune]

I use spindle Nuts that are twice as thick as stock, both inner and outer. Napa and carquest stock them for Dana 35 and 44 jeeps

Make sure the pin in the inner nut is new no wear and sticks out the same depth of the lock ring washer
Make sure the threads on the spindle are not *****ed up where the lock ring washer tabs sits, otherwise it will move back and forth slowly and then you lose your torque

The lock ring washer must fit tight in the groove on the spindle , cannot Move side to side at all.

The outer jamb nut it 180-200ft lbs
I have been known to collect the spindles (they are no longer made and fetch big $$$ now)
I’ve also been known to actually weld on some material to the edges of the lock ring washer tab and then file it to fit exactly in the groove on the spindle

I run a locker and 35” tires on the ttb with a v8
Like Brain above who has a very heavy armored 4 door and big tires… I have learned over the years how to keep the bearings together

New seals each time, pretty much timken or
National bearings only

No play in tie rods or ball joints, any wobble of the tire beats on these spindle wheel bearings

If you still have auto hubs well … they suck

 

[jpettibone5592]

I had this issue on a FWD car. I was tapping the bearing in with a hammer and cracked the race, leading to premature failure. Used a piece of wood as a softener, all good.

I used a peice of 2x the first time and thought that was my mistake that maybe wood got in it.

 

[jpettibone5592]

Welcome to this forum! Which brand do you use?

I have tried master pro and precision so far

 

[jpettibone5592]

Either you are not setting the pre
Load properly or something is severely worn out and needs replaced

The spindle could be worn
The lock ring washer / jamb nut could be moving and not holding tight

Does this 94 have auto hubs or manual?

We need details
The knuckle u joints, inner spindle bearings, and all wheel bearing hardware must be in good shape

It has auto hubs, when i change bearings I do inner and outter, inner seems to take more damage, someone else said there is 2 nuts but from the time I changed it to begin with there was only 1, the.outter one with shim

 

[jpettibone5592]

I use spindle Nuts that are twice as thick as stock, both inner and outer. Napa and carquest stock them for Dana 35 and 44 jeeps

Make sure the pin in the inner nut is new no wear and sticks out the same depth of the lock ring washer
Make sure the threads on the spindle are not *****ed up where the lock ring washer tabs sits, otherwise it will move back and forth slowly and then you lose your torque

The lock ring washer must fit tight in the groove on the spindle , cannot Move side to side at all.

The outer jamb nut it 180-200ft lbs
I have been known to collect the spindles (they are no longer made and fetch big $$$ now)
I’ve also been known to actually weld on some material to the edges of the lock ring washer tab and then file it to fit exactly in the groove on the spindle

I run a locker and 35” tires on the ttb with a v8
Like Brain above who has a very heavy armored 4 door and big tires… I have learned over the years how to keep the bearings together

New seals each time, pretty much timken or
National bearings only

No play in tie rods or ball joints, any wobble of the tire beats on these spindle wheel bearings

If you still have auto hubs well … they suck

I have not touched tie rods or ball joints so they could be bad as well, my tires are actually smaller then what they should be as it was all I could afford, I only have an oriellys close to me so have only tried master pro and precision brand bearings, and deff have auto hubs but 4x4 doesn't even work currently,

 

[jpettibone5592]

What size tires? What width are your tires? Wheels stick out really far (shallow backspacing)? Wheel spacers? Are you using matched races with your bearings? I ask the last question because aftermarket rotors that come with pre-installed races are not the greatest quality, I always pound out those new races and swap in the matched Timken races for my Timken bearings (p/n SET37).

I used the ones that came in the rotor th first time, then the ones that came with replacements and no difference, will check tire size soon I know they are smaller then normal

 

[RangerX]

Check this great thread for the detailed, thorough, and accurate way to remove and reinstall the auto hubs and the bearings if you have any doubts or questions, it’s VERY detailed with tons of photos. How to: - My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary
Try to find Timkin bearings, us old timers learned long long ago that they are best on this D35 axle.

 

[jpettibone5592]

What size tires? What width are your tires? Wheels stick out really far (shallow backspacing)? Wheel spacers? Are you using matched races with your bearings? I ask the last question because aftermarket rotors that come with pre-installed races are not the greatest quality, I always pound out those new races and swap in the matched Timken races for my Timken bearings (p/n SET37).

205 75 15

 

[jpettibone5592]

Check this great thread for the detailed, thorough, and accurate way to remove and reinstall the auto hubs and the bearings if you have any doubts or questions, it’s VERY detailed with tons of photos. How to: - My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary
Try to find Timkin bearings, us old timers learned long long ago that they are best on this D35 axle.

I appreciate it and will be checking it and seeing if I can order them, I'm in Bismarck north dakota and am new there only really know where oriellys is so far

 

[410Fortune]

Precision band is decent
Oreilly should be able to get timken

 

[Brian1]

205 75 15

Big tires eat wheel bearings but those are close to stock size so your tires shouldn't be an issue. I'm thinking it is either a bearing quality issue or a preload issue.