Looking to improve the truck with a suspension kit

[cobracr]

I have a 1998 Explorer Sport 2 Door RWD w/ Torsion Bars and I'm looking for a good suspension kit or for pieces each, im looking to change all the pieces at once so i can have a better experience, got 2 amazon deals rn, which one would you consider as best? Sorry if you need any extra information, just lmk.

Kit 1 @ Amazon


Kit 2 @ Amazon

Just lmk if you need any extra info. I'm not in the US but i can bring the pieces to my country. Its cheaper.

 

[swshawaii]

Detroit Axle parts any good?

I'm looking to replace the upper control arms and lower ball joints on my 97 Explorer. Took it into a shop for an alignment last week and they quoted me 870 bucks to do it. I found a super cheap kit that includes sway bar links, tie rods, control arms, and ball joints on Ebay, and I just...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[cobracr]

will look further on this

 

[donalds]

What kind of experience are you looking for ?

 

[cobracr]

best i can get for around 260$ budget on only suspension parts

 

[donalds]

best i can get for around 260$ budget on only suspension parts

Soft factory ride
or tight but slightly harsh

I installed poly bushings everywhere mostly in the back
Cheap and easy

 

[Fix4Dirt]

personally not a huge fan of detroit axle... id say use energy suspension bushings and pres them in the UCA/LCA and uniball ball joints, ES sway end links, rear sway bushings, etc... you get the idea... just my opinion! havent found a one size fits all kit. that i like... yet........

 

[J_C]

Detroit Axle is a generic Chinese importer, I'd much rather use as much budget as you can spare, towards Moog, or Motorcraft if the cost difference isn't much.

Factory upper control arms do not have a replaceable ball joint, so you'll need the whole arm. Lower control arm, it would be easier to just buy the whole arms with new bushings and BJ already in them but you could buy those separately, press old bushings and BJ out, press new ones in, and save maybe $40 per each L/R side... unless the BJ hole is rusted out, then I'd replace the whole arm anyway, though there are also oversized BJs to make up the slack from a larger, rusted out BJ hole in the arm.

 

[410Fortune]

I disagree
I have replaced a hundred lower ball joints and no need to replace the entire lower control arm which involves messing with the torsion bars and keys

Simply press old ball joint out (hammer)
And press new joint in (ball joint press)
Clean the cup first

If the new ball joint does not fit tight then consider replacing the whole LCA
I have used a couple of small tack welds to retain a loose ball joint as well, you can put some material back into the cup with a welder, file to shape and then press the new joint in it will stay snug

 

[J_C]

^ I'm talking about replacing the bushings too. Once you add on the effort and cost of the bushings, some people may find it's worthwhile to just get the whole arm. OP did write "looking to change all the pieces". As far as what really, needs, replaced... couldn't guess, don't know the vehicle history.

 

[410Fortune]

Smart…. And yes if the bushings are toast I replace the arm I’m not messing w pressing those in and out
Sorry I missed that detail

 

[Fix4Dirt]

wish they made an arm w poly bushings though already installed

 

[410Fortune]

I’m no fan of urethane bushing in suspension parts
They are too hard, they squeak and they seem to wear out quickly. I prefer rubber bushings for pivot brackets, radius arms, control arms, etc

 

[Fix4Dirt]

oh really? ive liked my ES poly ones in my UCA/LCA... they do make the occasional sqeak, but its much better than it used to be cause it squeaked over every slight bump

 

[410Fortune]

Just my personal opinion is all urethane does a good job of keeping things tight and centered but it’s not good at rotation