Low battery causing shutoff at stop lights?

[ScreaminWeasel]

My daughter has a 2014 ford explorer v6 (not sure of model level). I didn't get a chance to look at the explorer so this is all second hand info.
She was complaining of the explorer engine shutting off at stoplights and then the low oil pressure light coming on. Her boyfriend checked the battery had 12V at rest, did a little research and said it could be the fuel pump. Due to fuel pump being in the gas tank he didn't want to do that repair. Forward about a week and she takes it to the dealership.
They run diag on battery and oil pressure and find the CCA at 350 and an oil leak at the timing cover. Their explanation for shut off doesn't make sense to me but I'm not familiar with the newer electronics.
1. They said the low CCA was a sign of a bad battery, which the battery management system saw and shutoff the explorer to protect the system. Remember this was happening at red lights after the car had been running.
-- yes, Low CCA is a weak battery which should impact starting but does the management system actually shutdown a running car just because the battery is weak?
-- Shouldn't there be a bad battery light or warning somewhere?
-- Is there any way to turn that shutdown feature off? She's could be in the middle of 5 lanes of traffic when shutoff occurs. Now I know Ford does this for a reason but I'm more concerned about her safety than her computer having a hissy-fit.
2. Wouldn't it be normal for the oil light to come on when the engine shuts down?
3. Would any of this be reported on a code check on the explorer via the OBD port?

Fortunately she has a warranty that covers all but about $600 worth of this work.

Thank you

Interesting. I have a 2014 Sport and have been limping along with a crap battery~250CCA for some time and haven’t seen any of the symptoms you are describing. Hoping someone can shed more light on it for you/her, but wanted to chime in that it sounds like there is much more going on just a low battery. Good luck!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'd check the fine print on diag fees in the contract. To Peter's point 3rd warranty have a bad rap. Dealer should have do a battery inspection and look over for free at least to start. 200 an hour is nuts. Never would pay that.

They shouldn’t have to look over your vehicle for free. This practice just drives up cost for customers who actually get the work done.

I had tremendous luck with a third party warranty. They kept my first Explorer going for the 36 month warranty period. I dumped it shortly after it expired. They spent many thousands in repairs, and my deductible per claim was $100. They allowed more than one repair for a claim, so I always had a second repair tossed in for my $100.

Granted most are sketchy at best.

 

[Timinglight]

My daughter has a 2014 ford explorer v6 (not sure of model level). I didn't get a chance to look at the explorer so this is all second hand info.
She was complaining of the explorer engine shutting off at stoplights and then the low oil pressure light coming on. Her boyfriend checked the battery had 12V at rest, did a little research and said it could be the fuel pump. Due to fuel pump being in the gas tank he didn't want to do that repair. Forward about a week and she takes it to the dealership.
They run diag on battery and oil pressure and find the CCA at 350 and an oil leak at the timing cover. Their explanation for shut off doesn't make sense to me but I'm not familiar with the newer electronics.
1. They said the low CCA was a sign of a bad battery, which the battery management system saw and shutoff the explorer to protect the system. Remember this was happening at red lights after the car had been running.
-- yes, Low CCA is a weak battery which should impact starting but does the management system actually shutdown a running car just because the battery is weak?
-- Shouldn't there be a bad battery light or warning somewhere?
-- Is there any way to turn that shutdown feature off? She's could be in the middle of 5 lanes of traffic when shutoff occurs. Now I know Ford does this for a reason but I'm more concerned about her safety than her computer having a hissy-fit.
2. Wouldn't it be normal for the oil light to come on when the engine shuts down?
3. Would any of this be reported on a code check on the explorer via the OBD port?

Fortunately she has a warranty that covers all but about $600 worth of this work.

Thank you

Hello,
The dealership explanation doesn't seem correct, but it is possible. A weak battery or low oil pressure would trigger a safety function to turn off the vehicle. However, you should have a stored DTC that captured the event. Have you had any other work done recently before it stalled? For example, an upstream oxygen sensor, or did anyone add any additives added to the engine oil to reduce engine tapping noise?

 

[Larry Compton]

My daughter has a 2014 ford explorer v6 (not sure of model level). I didn't get a chance to look at the explorer so this is all second hand info.
She was complaining of the explorer engine shutting off at stoplights and then the low oil pressure light coming on. Her boyfriend checked the battery had 12V at rest, did a little research and said it could be the fuel pump. Due to fuel pump being in the gas tank he didn't want to do that repair. Forward about a week and she takes it to the dealership.
They run diag on battery and oil pressure and find the CCA at 350 and an oil leak at the timing cover. Their explanation for shut off doesn't make sense to me but I'm not familiar with the newer electronics.
1. They said the low CCA was a sign of a bad battery, which the battery management system saw and shutoff the explorer to protect the system. Remember this was happening at red lights after the car had been running.
-- yes, Low CCA is a weak battery which should impact starting but does the management system actually shutdown a running car just because the battery is weak?
-- Shouldn't there be a bad battery light or warning somewhere?
-- Is there any way to turn that shutdown feature off? She's could be in the middle of 5 lanes of traffic when shutoff occurs. Now I know Ford does this for a reason but I'm more concerned about her safety than her computer having a hissy-fit.
2. Wouldn't it be normal for the oil light to come on when the engine shuts down?
3. Would any of this be reported on a code check on the explorer via the OBD port?

Fortunately she has a warranty that covers all but about $600 worth of this work.

Thank you

The idle air control valve is probably sticking causing the dieing at stop light. And yes if the engine is not running the oil pressure light will be on, that's normal. It probably would not set a code for the IAC since it wouldn't be an open circuit or a short.

 

[aasu]

I'd check the fine print on diag fees in the contract. To Peter's point 3rd warranty have a bad rap. Dealer should have do a battery inspection and look over for free at least to start. 200 an hour is nuts. Never would pay that.

I'd check the fine print on diag fees in the contract. To Peter's point 3rd warranty have a bad rap. Dealer should have do a battery inspection and look over for free at least to start. 200 an hour is nuts. Never would pay that.

Hello,
The dealership explanation doesn't seem correct, but it is possible. A weak battery or low oil pressure would trigger a safety function to turn off the vehicle. However, you should have a stored DTC that captured the event. Have you had any other work done recently before it stalled? For example, an upstream oxygen sensor, or did anyone add any additives added to the engine oil to reduce engine tapping noise?

Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like final cost is about 550 for everything. The dealership worked with her on battery replacement cost and has gotten most other items covered under warranty. If we throw in her 250 deductible on the warranty work that cost isn't bad for what needs to be done.
The warranty company would cover the repair work, diags and supplies for the timing chain cover. The dealership suggested replacing the drive belt (oil damage and frayed) and the oil filter(warranty didn't cover this). Those made sense to me.
I'm not convinced that they actually fixed the engine shutting off at stoplights but we'll see. If it continues she'll be back requesting a credit for the battery work since they said it was the "cause" and they wouldn't do anymore further work until the battery was addressed.

Are there any documents she should collect when they return the car? I'm thinking all the invoice, supplies used, work done. Do they usually include the diag test results in the returned documentation? I'm not looking to complain in the future just want documented support if she has the same issue again.

Thank you

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like final cost is about 550 for everything. The dealership worked with her on battery replacement cost and has gotten most other items covered under warranty. If we throw in her 250 deductible on the warranty work that cost isn't bad for what needs to be done.
The warranty company would cover the repair work, diags and supplies for the timing chain cover. The dealership suggested replacing the drive belt (oil damage and frayed) and the oil filter(warranty didn't cover this). Those made sense to me.
I'm not convinced that they actually fixed the engine shutting off at stoplights but we'll see. If it continues she'll be back requesting a credit for the battery work since they said it was the "cause" and they wouldn't do anymore further work until the battery was addressed.

Are there any documents she should collect when they return the car? I'm thinking all the invoice, supplies used, work done. Do they usually include the diag test results in the returned documentation? I'm not looking to complain in the future just want documented support if she has the same issue again.

Thank you

In writing about battery and refund if they agree
.

 

[onestout]

Stalling at idle, not your battery. As already stated your oil pressure light may come on because of the stall. Possible items, TB, new from Ford us 50, vacuum leak from the gas cap evap system check to make sure the valve is working. Most probable though is your air flow sensor us dirty, just put in a new one.