The first thing that pressurized oil does after going thru the pump, is report itself to the sending unit. If you have low pressure on a live gauge where the oil sender is located, you have a bottom end problem (pump, relief valve, bearings, etc.). You can also try an FL-1 factory filter (I get mine at Pep Boys). There are internal pressure relief valves in aftermarket filters that may not be up to the same standard as the factory filter.
As has been mentioned. The electrical sending unit is subject to the inaccuracy of electrical components when temperatures change.
This may be difficult at this time of year in Denver, but use and ohmeter on a 70 deg. day when the engine hasn't been started. Get the resistance spec for the service manual and measure resistance of the sender. This is a common starting point. If your manual gives a hot spec, then start it and get it full warm and take the same reading. If okay, you have 2 choices. Get behind the dash and find the "other end" of the wire and make the same hot test. Now you've checked the entire circuit. If it's to spec., then get a test with a real pressure gauge.
As a note, the oil going to valve seals and rings isn't under pressure. Typically both of these components are lubricated by what I refer to as "splash." For the valve seal, oil is pumped to the head and out into the valve area. While it is directed towards the valves and seals, when it gets there it's not under pressure.
It's not a bad idea to try a thicker oil, but you have to have a live gauge to see exactly what the change in pressure is.