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Low RPM

Broke(n)

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November 23, 2014
Messages
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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2020 300A Limited
New owner of a 2004, well kept Explorer. Bought it at around 76K and have all paperwork except for recent replacement of Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. His neighbor owns a garage and he owed him a favor so he did it for him after they checked what the check engine light was on for.

Truck now has 77,357K on it and no check engine and everything seems to run great. My only concern is the low RPM. I have NO rough idling at any point. It's just low RPM
Warm RPM is about 500 which on my Taurus is around 900-1000
Constant freeway speed is at constant 2000 which on my Taurus is at 2500

What should I start looking at to correct this. I know it cant possibly be normal to be that low.
 



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4.0?

My 4.6 idles at 600.

Haven't paid attention to my 05 4.0.
If it doesn't feel like it's going to die, I wouldnt worry about it.
 






It doesn't seem like it will die. I was just a bit puzzled when it went from cold start 900 and 30 seconds later all the way down to 500 and that's where it stays.
The other thing I was worried about was at constant speed being only 2000 when I have been told my Taurus needs to be at 2500. I know we are talking differences here in vehicles but just though it was a similar range. My Taurus is a 3.0L EFI V6
 






My '04 with 4.0 idles @750 once engine is operating temp. At cold start it idles around 1100 briefly before settling @750. Also idles very smooth. My suggestion is to clean out the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Mine was idling a little low until I did this a while back. I have never had idle as low as 500 though.
 






I will do that, as well as the MAF while I'm there.
 






Year bump but still trying to figure this out.
I cleaned the intake best I could and never really got anywhere. I'm still getting low idle and seems even lower now and a little rough.
Here is a picture I took the other day after driving and warming up the truck.

At freeway speed my RPM is at 2K which to me seems low.

2s8i58o.jpg
 






I'm sorry, but this thread is too stupid.

Go spend some money at a shop so you will feel better about your non-problem.
 






Gauges are not 100% accurate. Especially ford gauges...

Also, you can't use a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT car for comparison. Your explorer probably has the 3.55 rear end so that means you will turn low rpm on highway. Go drive a truck with a 4.10 rear end. You will be doing 3,000 rpm going 60 mph... You do NOT have any problems.

07 suburban 3.73 rear 75 mph: ~2,100 rpm
02 explorer 3.73 rear 75 mph ~2,500 rpm

Different cars, different transmissions...
 






Idle RPM is fine and so is the 2k while cruising.
 






I'm sorry, but this thread is too stupid.

Go spend some money at a shop so you will feel better about your non-problem.
So why did you bother to post. At least now everyone can see what helpful dick you can be :thumbsup:
Also, this is an issue, since at times, it seems like my truck will stop if I dont press on the gas.
Gauges are not 100% accurate. Especially ford gauges...

Also, you can't use a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT car for comparison. Your explorer probably has the 3.55 rear end so that means you will turn low rpm on highway. Go drive a truck with a 4.10 rear end. You will be doing 3,000 rpm going 60 mph... You do NOT have any problems.

07 suburban 3.73 rear 75 mph: ~2,100 rpm
02 explorer 3.73 rear 75 mph ~2,500 rpm

Different cars, different transmissions...
OK, fine. That might be the answer for driving RPM. I am more concerned about idle as one can see since I posted an image about the idle RPM.
 






My 05 4.0 was idling at 500 and I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF and the idle went up to 750.
Bob T
:usa:
 






500 IS definitely too low for idle, I don't think the battery would stay charged very long in a traffic jam like that.

Is the 500 in Park/Neutral or in Drive?

Hook a live OBDII device to it and see if it shows the same RPM's as the gauge.
 






Did you not listen about accurate gauges?

Also, idle is ENGINE dependent! A stock Chevy 454 can happily idle at 500 rpm all day. A little 1 liter 4 banger.. NO.

Also, Chevy Suburban: idle out of gear 600 rpm. Idle in gear: 500 rpm. A/C is always cold no matter what...

I don't see 500 rpm being any issue..
 






My dash gauge looks like it's idling at 500, though my Ultra-Guage shows it to be 600 from the PCM.

As long as the idle is smooth, car isn't trying to die, then there's no need to worry.
 






since it's throttle by wire, I'd clean the throttle body thoroughly or replace the TPS if you have the budget for it (replacing an old part with a new part only hurts your pocket :)). check the actual rpm using an OBD2 scanner to verify it's not a gauge issue.

does the rpm go up if you have the AC on? or move the steering left to right?
 






the only problem you have is that you need to fix your ABS
 






That's exactly where my 4.6L idles after warming up, between 500-600. Runs good, no idle issues. With overdrive on, I rarely get much over 2k when driving around. It's idled like that since I bought it.

When it starts, it flares to about 1400 or so, then settles back to around 800-1k, then after driving a few minutes, it sticks at 500-600.

Totally normal idle values.
 






OK so I just used FORScan on my laptop and did a live test. RPM was between 650 and 700 at idle so I guess the gauge is visually off.

As for that ABS deal. I know. Light has been coming on and I can hear it a little but I am not really getting the info I need from FORScan to know exactly where to look.

If anyone wants to have a look at my latest scan.

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle.

===END PCM DTC P1000-FF===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===ABS DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END ABS DTC U1900-20===

===ABS DTC B2900-20===
Code: B2900 - VIN Mismatch

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

===END ABS DTC B2900-20===

===IC DTC B2659-20===
Code: B2659 - Courtesy Switch Fault

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

===END IC DTC B2659-20===

===IC DTC B1352-20===
Code: B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Ignition key in circuit fault

--- Possible Causes --------
This DTC can be generated by:

-Open Key-In Ignition Switch circuit
- Battery short Key-In Ignition Switch circuit
- Battery short Ignition Switch RUN/ACCY circuit
- Suspect Ignition Switch
- Suspect Lighting Control Module.

===END IC DTC B1352-20===

===RCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC None===
 






OK so I just used FORScan on my laptop and did a live test. RPM was between 650 and 700 at idle so I guess the gauge is visually off.

As for that ABS deal. I know. Light has been coming on and I can hear it a little but I am not really getting the info I need from FORScan to know exactly where to look.

If anyone wants to have a look at my latest scan.

No please, keep posting for months or years about your non-problem.
 



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