Lucas Oil Stabilizer

[FMExplorer]

410,
a little off subject here - but regarding the 4.0 block - if you was going to rebuild a motor with 150k on it and wanted to p+p the heads, valve job and so on, what are the chances of safely running NOS without damaging the lower half? Or am I better off machining the block just to be sure?

J

 

[410Fortune]

synthetics have changed since 91, the old concern was they are too new and we dont know enough about them, and that they would cause a leaky engine to leak more.

It;s a bunch of BS. The fact remains that a good synthetic oil (Casstrol or Mobil One) will outperform a conventional motor oil. So how can it hurt?

 

[Hank]

Originally posted by 410Fortune


Oh and there isnt a Ford engine out there that doesnt benefit from synthetic oil, you wallet benefits the most because it more then pays for itself in gas mileage....

FMExplorer was refering to the Limited Slip Diff.

I saw no discernable difference in mileage between syn and organic oils.

 

[410Fortune]

Dude running NOS will wear out any engine twice as fast. Yes your 150K mile short block will hold up for a while as long as you dont kill it. I am telling you the lower half of the stock 4.0L is tough for MANY MANY miles. YOu do need to replace the oil pump at the very least. Personally I would not run nitrous on any stock truck engine, no matter what the miles, but thats just because if I want to go that fast I'll buy a car or a 2wd.

Thats kinda a loaded question, I;m one of those guys that will rebuild everything with all new parts, just to avoid having to pull the engine again anytime soon.
recommend it? no
Will it be okay with nos and 150K miles? probably last for another 100K miles as logn as you dont over do it. But wouldnt you feel better knowing you properly prepared the block for the nitrous? (to me, forged pistons are required if you want to run NOS)

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

If you smelled rotten eggs then most likely you will smell them again and you cat is clogged/all used up.
Besides just being old there is one thing that will kill a cat converter, raw fuel. If your cat goes bad it is most likely because something else is wrong, an 02 sensor is bad, the fuel pressure regulator went out, your MAS is not working properly, etc...

it was about 50k ago so im thinking that everythign is okay. i keep the mas, tb, iac cleaned regularily - i changed o2 sensors about 60k ago. i credit the stink to the "engine restore"

i think i will probably leave the LOS alone as ive never had to add oil between changing and ive always used mobil1 5w-30 so i feel really good about it. i used prolong one time and saw no gains either. i think that these kinds of products are no replacement for keen maintenance and regular upkeep. thanks for you reply though youreally know your stuff. thanks (410Fortune)!

i also wander the same as jimabena... will it cancel each other or just multiply viscosity (sp?)

 

[Hank]

Originally posted by FMExplorer
410,
what are the chances of safely running NOS without damaging the lower half?

Jon, have you been watching "The Fast and The Furrious" on Starz this month....


I can see it now: Bubba's mud ranch, end of the mud strip.


He floors it !!, BOOST!!, bounce, stuck, spinning, stomp on it, BOOST!!, BANG!! SNAP CRACKLE POP!!!!

 

[410Fortune]

Hey you brought up a great point I often forget about.

I am one of the most **** people in the world when it comes to maintenence of my baby, just ask my fiance who could kill me I spend so much time under the hood and so much money on parts. I change my synth oil every 3K no matter what, I re-pack my wheel bearings 4 times a year or more, I xhange my auto tranny fluid twice a year min, I change spark plugs about once a year, etc..

But what you said is dead on.

There is no product that can make up for or replace proper prevenative maintenence.


Oh and running too many fual cleaners, addatives, octane boosters can harm your cat too, so like you said that could be the smell. My point is if you smelled the eggs some damage was done to the catalyst in your converter.

When I added Lucas to my 2.9L I noticed a big gain in compression. My 2.9L had 180K miles on it and I drove the crap out of it. I added some lucas along with my regular Mobil synth 10w-30 and it helped slow down the leaks, it got me some power back, and the compression numbers on all 6 jumped up quite a bit, at least for a while, I dont know I yanked that 2.9L a couple months later....

A buddy of mine had aMitsubishi pickup with 300K miles. Diesel turbo, the 5 speed was making noise and shifting really crappy, added a 1/2 bottle of lucas and it lasted for another year....the stuff works best in worn out transmissions, engine's, and diff's, bottom line.

 

[FMExplorer]

Hank - yes I was referring to runing synthetic is the rear diff with LS (even a new auburn says not to).

410 - I don't want NOS to go fast - just for a burst when I inevitably get stuck in mud. I agree it makes more sense to rebuild the whole thing. Shoot - it's only another $800 to do it right. That big of a project may as well get done right. My thoughts are to stay with the stock heads (all valves and such replaced) - port+polish, headers, MAS, throttle body, chip, NOS and NOS/SC grind cam, forged pistons and so on. The goal is 220-235hp before NOS. With the research I've done, this should be fairly easy to attain. What do you think?

J

 

[Hank]

Jon you missed my question 2 posts above.

 

[FMExplorer]

Oops - sorry Hank
No - haven't seen it yet...

BUT - if I score the GT next month, maybe I should watch it. Don't ask about it - I'll fill ya in later

J

 

[410Fortune]

Well you are right on then.

I too plan to build a OHV 4.0L for my truck, my 93 is nearing 100K miles and I have a "spare" 4.0L I can build so this winter I plan to get started.


225+ HP is easily reachable with the OHV 4.0L with the right rebuild. You may be able to save some $$$ by using stock SOHC pistons, they are forged from what I hear, however they are flattop and will increase the compression a bunch so you need to lower the compression back down when doing the heads.

I have not done anything like this before but I have done a ton of research and with friends like Brett I wont have any problems building my own.

If you dont have the book, get it. It iwll tell you everything you need to know....

As far as using NOS to boost yourself through mud, wouldnt you be better off with lower gears and less air pressure? I mean if you are in some thick ass stuff that is bogging your engine down, nitrous is not gonna boost you out of it, it;s gonna blow up your tranny, driveshaft, hubs, u joints, and eventually the engine.....If you are that serious about mud I would spend the NOS money on some 4.56 or 5.13's, high strenght u joints and axles, and some beadlocks.....

Dont get me wrong I think NOS is cool! It's like free power! But the OHV 4.0L is more then adequate to shove 35" tires through the deepest mud even in stock form with the right gearing.......

 

[Hank]

Ditto: Ask me later about my wife's Isuzu Stylus XS.

A punk kid in a stickered and winged Civic got one hell of a surprise....

Wife gave me build up permission.. No stickers or wings though....

 

[410Fortune]

Fast ans the stupid plots is more like it. Personally I wouldlike to get a 86-87 2wd Ranger and convert it over to the 2.3L turbo, intercool it, get some high compression head gaskets (copper ones?) and run 14# of boost or more, then go make all those stupid Fast and Furious huge wing having morons look stupid in a 4 banger Ranger.......

 

[Hank]

There was a plot??? I have seen norp with more of a plot..

 

[410Fortune]

HAHAHA those little Isuzu turbo's can make a ton of power!!!!!!!

You know what else would be cool to handle those ricers is a hopped up Xr4ti, anything 2.3L turbo is killer! I have seen SVO guys running 450 HP from the 2.3l T....

 

[FMExplorer]

Gotta love the norp!

410 - how about higher range RPM? Is the cam the determining factor in the RPM? I have read Sven's book a couple of times and after emailing him, I think 250-270 can be done with a little more tweaking.


Right now I am running 35's with 4.56's and yes - I get bogged down to where the stock motor starts getting cranky. But - with 60 extra ponies, much of that problem would go away.

 

[Hank]

But - with 60 extra ponies, much of that problem would go away.

Along with your trans, head, crank, cam, U-joints, yoke, and so on, and so on, and so on.....

 

[FMExplorer]

You sound like a Faberge Orgasmic commercial...

Hank - will 500hp keep me from getting stuick or will it make me 340hp more daring (aka stupid)?

J

 

[Hank]

I have researched you data and come up with the following formula.


( U + 500hp) = (Me driving you home after the first run) /
(Your exploder on a tow truck)

 

[410Fortune]

Sounds to me like you are in Atlas II territory now, not NOS.


250+ is possible, , you are just getting to a more radiacal cam and are going to sacrifice some of your streetability (making up myown words now).

If you want a 4.0L that winds up above 5500 RPM's you are gonna want to upgrade the rockers, valve's, and heads BIG TIME. Svens whole point is 250 can be reached but the difference in $$$$$$ is a lot! custom rods, pistons, etc should be used, whereas 230HP is average for a mid level rebuild using properly prepared stock parts.

I mean you are talking a ton of labor hours, deburring, balancing, porting, polishing, and a ton more $$$$$ for the custom rods, pistons, rocker tips, etc....

I plan on doing a semi aggressive buildup, I'll dyno it to see how much HP it makes when all is said and done.

My buddy Joe did a 5.0L conversion, well he dynoed his 93 Ex with the 180K mile 4.0L in there so he could get before numbers, not too good. His 4.0L with all the bolt on's headers, etc was making like 100 hp at the rear wheels (if I remember the numbers right, I'll check on that) the 5.0L HO conversion is done, just working the bugs out, so we shall see what the "After" numbers are.....