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Made the same mistake

well now that I found out it's was only a spark plugs I'm not so worried about it being a mistake anymore , but I still need to figure out why the CEL came back on. I'm thinking my new spark plug will just become dirty real soon again because of some other unforseen problem.
pull codes again.
 



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Ok i cold started it this morning and it still runs rough , it would appear the spark plugs didnt have any effect and the car may have just ran smooth because it was warm.

But I spose thats note worthy that after the car is warm it runs perfect.

Next I'm guessing injectors?
 






Why guess? Get the codes.
 






I already got the codes it was an 0300 , random misfire.

The list of possible repairs is so long that I'm wondering what to try next.
 






deamon, have you checked the air filter, and replaced the fuel filter? And check for vacuum leaks. Pull the dust cover off of the intake plenum, because there are loads of vacuum lines hidden under there. Check the PCV. Check the IAC, check the ECTs also. Do a run up on the coil pack & plug wires. Do a fuel pressure test. Clean the MAF if you have not already done so. O2 sensors can be bench tested with propane, but I would not look there first since you have no related codes. You have stated it was good when warm, so maybe ECTs should be checked. Carefully disconnect every part of the harness you can reach, and put some dielectric in there. You will not be wasting your time (or money) by doing any of these things, because they need to be done anyhow. And you will learn a lot about your truck that way. That is an old truck and you are going to need to do some poking around. It is at the age it needs some TLC my brother. And definitely get a shop manual if you want to do this stuff yourself. Even a Haynes manual is actually pretty good for 2G Explorers (but the Taurus manual blows BTW). The manual gives a test protocol for nearly every sensor & part. That way you are not just throwing parts at it. Best wishes.
 












The list of possible repairs is so long that I'm wondering what to try next.
the cheapest and easiest should always be first.

what is the list?
we'll sort it for ya :)


The manual gives a test protocol for nearly every sensor & part. That way you are not just throwing parts at it.
you are of course, correct.
but keep in mind... its a '97... it prolly needs parts thrown at it! ;)
 












I guess I'll try a fuel filter next. Seeing as it seems to be easy and cheap. After that i don't know.
 






One thing I never see on here is the burnt wiring harness inside the tranny. It baffles me that a harness with not insulation on it at all can allow a machine to operate and yet after replacement, it won't even turn over.

I just changed the VB seals and discovered the wires were bare. I only had low and sometimes one higher. This after a double flush and fill. Had all but OD (part time) prior to that. Couldn't access the Turbine speed sensor as it's internally wired on the 97 I own so I threaded some 1/16th inch vacuum line over the bare wires. New harness had a temp switch while the old did not on the TC lock in solenoid. But now the dirty name won't even turn over. What the 773H did I get myself into?

Hi, I used to build amateur street machines in the early 70s and need necessitates I turn a wrench again. Sucks to be me.
 






ok fuel filter had no effect.

I was talking with a guy at napa about my problem (just to recap

starts high idles , dips low and stalls immediately. Have to hold the gas down and keep the engine alive until it idles on it's own , then idles very rough until it's warm. after it's warm , the car starts and drives perfect)

He mentioned that it sounds like too much air is getting into the engine and possibly the automatic choke (or whatever the proper name is) is stuck open on startup. He also went through a laundry list of sensors that should be looked at.

This is becoming so involved I almost just wanna take it to a dealer to get fixed.
 






He also mentioned the throttle position sensor possibly?
 






sure sounds like intake gaskets to me. classic 4.0L SOHC problem. the next time you are ready to start it from cold, press the gas pedal to the floor once and release. then start it and see if that makes any difference.
 






From what I see:

-You dont know what you're doing. (youre taking advice from random people at Napa!! Trust me... They dont know what they're doing either.)
-Youre just wasting money by throwing parts at it.
-It would be cheaper for you to take it to a professional and have it repaired.
 






Should I take it to an actual ford dealer or just any repair shop?
 






same mistake

I agree on the intake upper body gasket. I disagree on the NAPA comment as they are in business to sell parts like any other merchant. It's always the same with unknown people as to whether their words are valid or not. The guys behind the counters hear a lot but considering the dummies, like me, doing the work, they're going to get some bad info in some places.

When I showed my wire harness to the Ford team, they said they'd never seen anything like it. Meaning, in one respect, I'm not sticking my professional neck out on small pieces of information that I didn't get on my own. Despite my Ag mechanic and Industrial experience, I am still a rank amateur to the man with the uniform.

At any rate, after much thought, I crawled under the Explorer, unpluged the tranny and noticed the extreme amount of play in the shift cable. Pulled it down and beast fired right up. However, I now have no gears at all. Engine does automatically increase RPMs when shifter is moved to a place.

Question: Does the spring tab inside tranny have something to do with the play in the cable as I may have bolted it to the wrong one of three holes. I really do need a wiring diagram and a process sheet of activation of solenoids. Just in case the shift module is gone.
 






deamon, You will learn absolutely nothing by taking it in. Might just as well surrender your arms when SHTF.
 






deamon3, the intake upper plenum gasket is actually cheaper than the filter.
 






Are you sure you did not get a tank of bad gas? If you got a tank of gas with water in it will run like you described.
 



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electric process logic diagram

I know this document exists on the transmission as it is the standard of engineered equipment and is invaluable to troubleshooting industrial processes. The code readers are for people not trained to understand them. I also need one on ignition process for 96 Ranger 2.3L 5 spd. It cranks, no fire, no injection, new timing components, coil pack, O2 sensors TPS, pump and filter. Also a no code situation with five ready and three missfire conditions. How many freaking grounds are on this thing? Is the relay responsible? What other ingenious devices are involved in simple fire? Geez, I feel like I'm involved in necromancy.
 






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