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major cooling leak on drivers side

mechjames

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 27, 2007
Messages
499
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City, State
Richmond, BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT
major cooling leak

On my 94 XLT, there is a major cooling leak coming from the drivers side. It isn't rad hoses, heater core, or radiator. Its so bad that I can loose all my coolant in 30 min of driving.

Could a freeze plug leak out that much? It only leaks when the motor is running, and when its running, you can see the water leak onto the ground. I doubt an intake gasket leak could loose all that coolant so fast.
 



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Could verywell be a core plug has erroded away due to lack of coolant additives
to protect the different metals.
 






that is very possible

we had some cold weather a while ago, and its possible the previous owner never put in any antifreeze :P

what is the easiest way to check the core plugs on the drivers side? i've looked around and can't really see them.
 






You'll be suprised how much water a freeze plug can leak out but they will normally leak wether the engine is on or off. Have you tried getting under the truck while it's running and looking for the source of the leak?
 






Most likely a head gasket. I am living through that right now. Got some liquid stop leak & it's a bandage, but not a fix.
Look for fluid from between the head & block.
Walter
 






I think I can rule out the intake manifold gasket, cause it actually empties the radiator in about 10 - 15 min. 20 - 25 if the overflow box is full.

If it was the headgasket, wouldn't that we water going into the cylinder? Also i doubt it would leak that much.

I'm going to guess its a frost plug. I believe the leak is lower than where the cylinder head mates with the block. Problem is, there is too much stuff in the way.

Also can the frost plugs be changed on this side of the truck easily? I don't want to pull the whole motor. What is the best way to get at them?
 






We have had below zero (celcius) temperatures a few weeks ago, it could very well be possible that the previous owner of the truck never put antifreeze in it.
 






Ok, the core plugs aren't leaking. I have a picture and where the white circle is, i can see the water dripping:



could this be the head gasket? or is there another core plug on the cylinder head?
 






Threads merged...

~Mark
 






Ok, the core plugs aren't leaking. I have a picture and where the white circle is, i can see the water dripping:



could this be the head gasket? or is there another core plug on the cylinder head?

yes and yes.

can you move that harness and get a mirror in there to see which.
 






i'll try tomorrow in the daytime. that is a really tiny spot to get into. keep in mind that the red plug on the right is the spark plug at the front.

i'm probably going to have to do some "exploratory" surgery tomorrow and the next few days to find out what it is.
 






i think i've found it. I can see water spraying out right were the intake manifold meets the drivers side head. Looks like a gasket issue. This would also explain why it seems like I have a vaccum leak around steady throttle.

Yep water is gushing out of the spot, and it gets worse when the motor is reved up. I'm assuming its the intake because its right nearby where the valve cover bolts up.

Should make an interesting job tomorrow pulling the intake.

 






yep, nice big intake leak right there:

n690405658_773414_5695.jpg


n690405658_773418_6719.jpg


yep thats a big leak, and definitely while its running under pressure
 






yeah i have a 99 4.0 ohv and i had the same problem and i had replaced the gasket twice and it still leaked becuase the lower intake manifold was so chewed up i had to replace it and another gasket to get it to seal up hope this helps just make sure you inspect that lower intake manifold before you put it back together.
 












thanks for the info, will use it for next time.

i just used fel-pro gaskets and the black rtv that came with it. it works alright
 






They must all be in the same union! Two days ago, my '93 XLT was steaming when I stopped at a grocery store. A quick look revealed the steam to be coming from just below the thermostat housing. I didn't remember seeing a bypass hose or anything like that when I replaced the thermostat in that area.

The next day, a closer look with the air duct removed revealed coolant gushing from what appeared to be the head/block interface right where the bolt for the A/C compressor bracket goes into the head. My fear was that the head had cracked right where the bolt fitting was.

I was devastated. This Explorer has 190,000 miles on it and although it's been reliable, I've been thinking about letting it go and replacing it.

I've also been thinking about repairing the few minor things that are wrong (door hinge, fuel gauage, rear window washer, lower ball joint,l ABS brakes) and having a cheap paint job put on it and driving it for a couple of more years.

But, I certainly wasn't going to pay $800 to $1,000 to have the head gaskets repaced and I didn't really feel like doing it as I have many other projects to complete.

A little internet research, including this forum, revealed that the intake manifold bolts are prone to loosen and that intake gaskets leaks are a weakness of this motor. But that also depressed me as to the commonality of such failures on this motor.

I pulled the Haynes manual and looked at the leak again. Sure enough, it was between the intake and the block mating surfaces. And, I checked the first intake bolt above the leak and it was loose. I torqued it down, but that made only a slight difference in the leak.

I was torn about starting to tear the engine down to replace the gaskets but I knew I wasn't paying a pro for that job either. The Explorer has been my rock, but it gets lousy fuel mileage and I just couldn't see putting $1,000 into a repair this late in it's life.

I spent the rest of the afternoon researching other cars I might replace the Explorer with and wondering if I could sell it as a parts car as the new tires and the alloy rims were worth $400 or so alone. But of course, I was looking at $30,000 cars and a $1,000 repair seemed much smaller, although I was fretting over the risk factor of having something else major go wrong soon after sinking that $1,000 into it.

Well, I also came across a few comments on using Risoline leak sealer. Now, I have always been a non-believer in those although I have used aluma seal to stop radiator leaks effectively in the past. But, I just can't beleive in such "miracles in a can". They are too good to be true.

I got up early this morning, reread the Haynes manual procedures for replacing the intake gaskets and then went out to take some pictures prior to disassembly. After reviewing the task at hand, I really didn't want to tackle it right now. I was appreciating my old Chevy and my IH Scout. Removing the intake on those doesn't involve fortyeight non-related items needing to be removed and it doesn't take gymnastics.

So, I punted and went off to Kragen and got a bottle of leak stop and put it in and ran the Explorer for twenty minutes. The lead completely stopped!

Now, I can't say that I trust this to hold. And, I know about all the naysayers that will tell me that my cooling system is going to get plugged up. Personaly, I'd attribute the later to urban legend. I don't believe that they'd be selling this stuff for this long if it was plugging radiators and heater cores every time it was used.

But, I've got to say, I've at least bought myself some time to plan for, and replace the intake gaskets when I have the time.

Now, this weekend I guess I'll flush the cooling system and reinstall coolant and maybe fix that door hinge that I've been putting off for a few months.

I'll update everyone on the intake leak in a few months.

Tom H. '93 XLT
Antioch, CA
 






the intake manifold gasket isn't too hard to change, it just requires pulling off the upper intake first, then the valve covers, then the intake

depending on your skill, only minimal things have to be removed. just the EGR valve and some solenoid brackets on the upper intake. also electrical connectors too.

the hardest part is the passengers side valve cover. there isn't too much room between the valve cover and the alternator, so you kind of have to put pressure and maneuver it.

another thing to be careful about is running the wire harness in the right direction. i didn't give my harness enough slack to run to the sensors on the upper intake, and in turn, i pulled off 2 injector wires accidently.

but other than that, i'm satisfied with myself. only took about 2-3 hours for me to do, slacking off included :)
 






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