Many many error codes

[janolsson]

As Sb said all those tranny codes immediately after fiddling with the wiring says its a wiring problem to me. There are connectors for the O2 sensores at the rear of the block (can be reached thro wheel arches with wheel and flap off)
There is also a couple of loom connector blocks behind there also. First off i would skin my knuckles checking they are firmly seated i.e undo them (i found a small flat screwdriver to releas the tabs helps) and then reconnect and make sure they click in. I would also visually check all the wiring you can find on the tranny from the connector behind the engine back.
Also look for any broken or corroded earth straps. (IIRC there is one from the transfer case to the chassis rail but not sure).
After doing all this disconnect the battery for 10 mins to reset the ecu. Take 3 short drives to see if you get any codes back (some codes take 3 cycles to show)
HTH
Jan

 

[Thood]

Good news, I had a look today at the wiring, nothing obviously wrong under the bonet but when I fiddled about with the wires on the lambda sensor the engine light went off. I covered each wire with some insulation tape and the light came back on, if I move the wires about the engine will rev itself and then cut out. I've managed to stabilise the engine but the light remains on. I'm going to asume that either the garage has not made a strong enough contact or that there is a break in one of the wires somewhere. I'll look out for a new set of wires and see what happens, is this something that Chriss could do for me?
Cheers

 

[SB98UKexplorer]

well its upto chriss's discretion, if not get take the loom to a good garage, how far back did you inspect the wire? right to the top of the bell housing at the back of the engine?

 

[Thood]

no, I just moved the wires in the immediate area of the solder. The wires after that go up through the engine bay and I'm not too sure where they end up.

 

[Thood]

HURRAY HURRAY HURRAY I've just spent the best part of 3 hours cursing, scraping knuckles and freezing certain parts off!!!!! BUT it seems to have cured the problem, no engine light and pulling away like a steam train. I made my own wiring loom and it seems to be working.
I can't thank you enough for all of your help,you have saved me a fortune. I just wish I could have found this site earlier.

Thanks again

Mark

 

[janolsson]

HURRAY HURRAY HURRAY I've just spent the best part of 3 hours cursing, scraping knuckles and freezing certain parts off!!!!! BUT it seems to have cured the problem, no engine light and pulling away like a steam train. I made my own wiring loom and it seems to be working.
I can't thank you enough for all of your help,you have saved me a fortune. I just wish I could have found this site earlier.

Thanks again

Mark

Ahh the satisfaction of actually fixing a problem AND saving money at the same time. No wonder some of us constantly find stuff to fix on our ex's.

Well done on the fix. Did you heat shrink the joins?

 

[Thood]

yep all sealed and working fine. Do you have any experience with LPG conversions?

 

[janolsson]

Chris fitted his own and jcasey007 sorted out his single point injection systen himself so these two would prob be the best 2 to approach for answers.
I have also read posts from a couple of others so may be worth a search on LPG and you might find all the answers you need or who can give you them

 

[Thood]

Just when all was going well

I knew that it would tempt fate if I celebrated fixing my car.......

The gas system is still playing up but is usable; I now have a problem with the petrol side of things.

Just recently I have noticed that occasionally I would lose power when I accelerated. The engine felt like it was holding back but when I took my foot off the pedal and then back on it would allow me to increase the revs. This does not happen all the time. Sometimes I will get an engine light come on, (not sure what the code is yet), but when I switch to gas the light goes out and will stay out even if I switch back to petrol.

Any ideas??

 

[jcasey007]

I have the same problem with the petrol side of things that occurs after driving over 20 miles on Petrol, I've changed the following

MAF, TPS, Injectors, Cam Sensor, Fuel pressure OK, new plugs, ERG and control electronics etc.

The only one not changed is the crank sensor.

drives fine when idleing up to 2200 rpm, from 2200 to 3000 hesitates and hunts, over 3000 it's fime

 

[Thood]

Mine only does this intermittently and it can happen from cold or after driving for a while. I have cleaned out the MAF and IAC valve but it has made no difference.
The best way I can describe it is that it feels as though something is sticking to prevent the revs from picking up which would explain why the problem only happens occasionally.

 

[janolsson]

Possible fuel delivery
Have you ever changed fuel filter?
Also dpfe sensor, vaccum lines, egr valve, pcv

 

[Thood]

Thanks for that. I'll start by checking the fuel filter. If I take my foot off the throttle and than back on again the rev's increase, would a blocked filter explain that?

Cheers

 

[Thood]

An Update, I've gone out and bought an OBD reader and it has given me 2 codes,
P1152
P1151P
Would this be a simple O2 sensor replacement on the passenger side?

Cheers

 

[jcasey007]

It's easy to check the voltage output of the O2 sensor before you replace it.

I would rig up a DVM in the cab, you would then very quickly see the different in voltages generated by the O2 sensor under different driving conditions, and especially when it is playing up.

Low voltage = weak mixture (on a heathy o2 sensor)

If you are accelelrating and you have a low voltage, that would indicate a knackered O2 sensor as they should read rich the instance you put your foor down.

If you keep your foot down (i.e. up a hill or constant accelleration) the O2 sensor should swing the mixture back to the centre point.

J

 

[Thood]

Cheers for that but I'm a bit nervous about checking the volts on the sensors because that's how all the last problems started.