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Map lights always on - no door ajar- lock problem

rellg

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'98 Ford Explorer
I have a '98 explorer (bought it 3 days ago) with the map lights in the front and there are no bulbs in it. Because its always on :) and the prev owner pulled out the bulbs probably...
I read about the door ajar problem here on the forum but the door ajar message comes on the dash only when a door is open so it seems working normaly. Anyhow I poured some wd40 as suggested but nothing changed.
On the other hand the fuse 18 is removed from the fuse box which is for the Central lock. Yes its disabled by the prev owner... If I put the fuse back the locks start to lock/unlock continuously. I also read about that probably there is a broken ground wire in one of the doors which could cause this but haven't got time remove the door panels yet.
Is it possible that the map light problem is in connection with the not functioning central lock? Or the map light is a separate issue? if its separate where should I start looking to fix that?

Thanks!
 


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rellg

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And one more additional info is that the radio works only on ignition. (Its not an original headunit.)
I think I read about it that this could indicate also a door ajar switch problem right?
 




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Double check that your dash light control knob (located by headlight switch) is not cranked all the way up.


In the VERY top position, the interior lights will always be on

Middle (adjustable) position, interior lights on when door opens, also adjusts instrument cluster light lever

Lower position dash lights all off, map lights all off.
 




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Double check that your dash light control knob (located by headlight switch) is not cranked all the way up.


In the VERY top position, the interior lights will always be on

Middle (adjustable) position, interior lights on when door opens, also adjusts instrument cluster light lever

Lower position dash lights all off, map lights all off.
You have other problems, but this would be a decent place to start.
 




CDW6212R

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I would start with the LF door jamb wiring, after confirming the dash light dimming switch is set properly(not all the way up).

The LF jamb wires are critical for the power windows, and the locks and latches. Those seem to turn up broken in some trucks, but fine in most others. Take your time with a 10mm socket to loosen(not remove) the long single bolt which holds the two connector halves together. There is a zip tie that has to be cut off that's around the middle part of it. Be gentle with those connectors, don't bend any wires unnecessarily too far. Carefuklly inspect the wires and find any broken ones. If you find any damaged, it's very hard to work in that tight spot to work on them. Be patient and do it right, it's a highly stressed set of wires.
 




XLTrunner

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One other thing you might check...go to the back rear left access panel (where the jack is located) and wiggle the plug-ins at the RAP module. The locks on my '98 will occasionally act up and I just go back there and wiggle the connectors. Takes care of the problem until the next recurrence.
 




rellg

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Double check that your dash light control knob (located by headlight switch) is not cranked all the way up.


In the VERY top position, the interior lights will always be on

Middle (adjustable) position, interior lights on when door opens, also adjusts instrument cluster light lever

Lower position dash lights all off, map lights all off.
Ok that did the job :) Now I just need to source some bulb to it(with sockets) :)
Thank you!
 




rellg

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One other thing you might check...go to the back rear left access panel (where the jack is located) and wiggle the plug-ins at the RAP module. The locks on my '98 will occasionally act up and I just go back there and wiggle the connectors. Takes care of the problem until the next recurrence.
Can you tell me which one is the RAP module?
The brownish thing or the black one? (The small black on the left is the controller for the parking sensors...)

Thanks :)

20210610_194452_HDR.jpg
 




EB4X

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The brown unit is it - RAP module.... on a side note there's a sticker on the face of it with your drivers door access code, assuming the previous owner didn't pass that on to you. Will come in handy if you accidentally lock your keys in the Explorer - I printed mine out on waterproof label and stuck on frame with magnets in case I forget it.
 




rellg

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The brown unit is it - RAP module.... on a side note there's a sticker on the face of it with your drivers door access code, assuming the previous owner didn't pass that on to you. Will come in handy if you accidentally lock your keys in the Explorer - I printed mine out on waterproof label and stuck on frame with magnets in case I forget it.
Its a european model (We live in Hungary in central europe) so there is no keypad on the drivers door but thanks for the info :)

On the other hand its turned out that there are lights in the side mirrors. I just closed the car in dark and some light showed up. It was a big suprise :)
 




EB4X

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Its a european model (We live in Hungary in central europe) so there is no keypad on the drivers door but thanks for the info :)

On the other hand its turned out that there are lights in the side mirrors. I just closed the car in dark and some light showed up. It was a big suprise :)
Wow.....so your Euro model has puddle lights ? ....cool !....I guess that was the trade off between versions.
 




CDW6212R

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Very nice, to see you find the forum, and to have the Explorer over there. Does it have a key fob, or is there a manual which might list the options it has? It may be possible that the truck is wired for the keyless entry or the key fob, and they could be added.
 




rellg

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Very nice, to see you find the forum, and to have the Explorer over there. Does it have a key fob, or is there a manual which might list the options it has? It may be possible that the truck is wired for the keyless entry or the key fob, and they could be added.
I have a key fob but it's currently just operating the alarm as the fuse for central lock is removed because of the continues lock/unluck what it does.(I need to find where is the broken wire or faulty lock which makes this behavior)
 




CDW6212R

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That fault will be the wires, one of them has the wire exposed to another wire which is powered. I'd look where the lock wires are bundled together where there is a lot of movement, or where some prior work was done that damaged the wire insulation. Look in either front door jambs, the lock wiring goes through both of those.
 




rellg

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Wow.....so your Euro model has puddle lights ? ....cool !....I guess that was the trade off between versions.
It's cool yes especially that's a 23 years old car :)
BTW am I right there is a light sensor somewhere for them as they light up only in dark...?
 




rellg

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Wow.....so your Euro model has puddle lights ? ....cool !....I guess that was the trade off between versions.
It's cool yes especially that's a 23 years old car :)
BTW am I right there is a light sensor somewhere for them as they light up only in dark...
I would start with the LF door jamb wiring, after confirming the dash light dimming switch is set properly(not all the way up).

The LF jamb wires are critical for the power windows, and the locks and latches. Those seem to turn up broken in some trucks, but fine in most others. Take your time with a 10mm socket to loosen(not remove) the long single bolt which holds the two connector halves together. There is a zip tie that has to be cut off that's around the middle part of it. Be gentle with those connectors, don't bend any wires unnecessarily too far. Carefuklly inspect the wires and find any broken ones. If you find any damaged, it's very hard to work in that tight spot to work on them. Be patient and do it right, it's a highly stressed set of wires.
I just checked the drivers door one. Also took of the door panel but haven't found anything wrong.
I Made a video regarding what it does exactly as now it seems for me it's kind of the locks doesn't know their position..
 




rellg

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It's cool yes especially that's a 23 years old car :)
BTW am I right there is a light sensor somewhere for them as they light up only in dark...

I just checked the drivers door one. Also took of the door panel but haven't found anything wrong.
I Made a video regarding what it does exactly as now it seems for me it's kind of the locks doesn't know their position..
 




CDW6212R

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Do the locks operate properly at any time? Normally you shouldn't(I wouldn't) push or pull the locks knobs. I rarely will reach inside a front door to unlock one rear door by the knob.

Do the locks work with the three lock buttons? It sounds like one or more of the actuators might be about worn out(getting hard to move).
 




rellg

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Do the locks operate properly at any time? Normally you shouldn't(I wouldn't) push or pull the locks knobs. I rarely will reach inside a front door to unlock one rear door by the knob.

Do the locks work with the three lock buttons? It sounds like one or more of the actuators might be about worn out(getting hard to move).
The locks only operatet properly with the key or from inside(manually) with the remote they do what I shown on the video.
Exception is the boot which I cannot operate with the key either, I think the cylinder is gone so it always open :) (I cannot turn the key there)
If the actuators worn its all of them...
BTW there is one in the boot which is just started to move when I was playing with it. Never moved before but at some point it started but doing the same as the others not close/open properly.(just making noise :) )
 


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CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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I would begin changing the lock actuators, those create a lot of negative force when they are bad or going bad. Find the best priced parts that you can which are a decent brand/quality, which can be hard with some parts.
 




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