Matching a MAF to 39lb'rs

[V8RangerBoy]

As much as I hated to get redundant by rethreading about this, I'm on the brink of "now or never" for having every little thing ready. I have everything together for my remote setup - turbo, wastegate, blowoff valve, full oil system, fittings, air filter, tubing, connectors, exhaust Y's, gauges, flanges are built, and that end of things is ready to go in. If I don't get this part together, I can limp the truck around until the parts come in.

But, I have the 39lb Cobra injectors coming and I know I need a bigger MAF to run with it (no question). I've researched the C&L units extensively, as everywhere I see nothing but good results with them. I will likely be calling tomorrow for their advice. The one problem I've come across with the C&L meters is that A) they don't make one precisely for the Explorer that I can find. B) The Mustang meter is calibrated using the different bore of sample tubes, and runs an entirely different looking sensor than an Explorer uses. C) The one large-bore Explorer meter I did find uses the stock Explorer sensor....

SO

Is it the sensor itself that pegs in the Explorer meters, or does it peg because of the small diameter body? If it's pegging because of the housing then I have the problem solved.

I know I can run with the Lightning meter, but I HIGHLY DOUBT the truck will run worth a damn if I just stick it in and fire it up to go get it tuned with the Lightning sensor.

Suggestions for how I can have the pickup driveable when the time comes? Will the Explorer sensor have enough range with a larger housing?

 

[CDW6212R]

Discuss that all with James, he does the PCM programming, he can guide you. I have a Lightning MAF myself, but I believe that I will end up needing a bigger meter. I may go straight to a BA2800 or the best size of their's for my truck. Good luck,

 

[chriswells78]

I'd go with a lightning meter. They are proven to work well on many, many, many force fed and N/A applications and they are pretty reasonably priced compared to some others on the market. I picked mine up used on ebay for less than $60.

It will not run until you get it tuned regardless. If it does, it won't be worth a crap. The PCM is going to be confused expecting stock sensor signal from the MAF and trying to control the 39#ers like they are 19#ers.

 

[Fredness]

Ditto, follow your tuners recommendations.

 

[reserved50]

depending on the style of the factory MAF meter (MMs and if it has center post etc), you can use C&Ls meter and chart, call them...but dont be surprized the A/F ratio is out of whack when checked with a wide-band. Mine ran about 14.7-1 right off the bat after it warmed up but hit richer than 9-1 at WOT, when I leaned the MAF signal out I gained over a second and about 10 mph. So yea the MAF will make it run but probably like crap . Im running an 80MM with an orange tube I think for 36ers. They did warn me it wont be bang on an Exploder because it wasnt tested, to cover their ***** so whatever.

So yea best bet is get a lightning MAF meter and appropriate connector (use a meter that has been widely used and documented) and call someone to tune it to that meter and injectors ( make sure you ask them before you buy a meter), should be pretty close

 

[jah81592]

Stay away from cal'd meters, especially with EEC-V. I would recommend custom tuning along with a Lightning meter. These meters will be good for around 440ish hp. After that all bets are off. If you have this much money in your combo I would get this thing dialed in with tuning. Don't skimp on this tuning is very important for not only engine life but for driveability as well. Another question remains as well, what size fuel pump are you running? What make,model and year is your Ranger. What make,model and year is the engine,ecu,etc from? I will travel if necessary to tune. Thanks-j

 

[scruff]

This is what I was trying to say in the other thread - not that you won't need to retune, obviously with this level of modification you will, but that a Ford MAF is going to be easier to work with than an aftermarket one, which everyone has warned about.

Jah hopefully when it comes time for tuning on my Ex-rod I'll be able to convince you to come to Atlanta for some tuning..

Stay away from cal'd meters, especially with EEC-V. I would recommend custom tuning along with a Lightning meter. These meters will be good for around 440ish hp. After that all bets are off. If you have this much money in your combo I would get this thing dialed in with tuning. Don't skimp on this tuning is very important for not only engine life but for driveability as well. Another question remains as well, what size fuel pump are you running? What make,model and year is your Ranger. What make,model and year is the engine,ecu,etc from? I will travel if necessary to tune. Thanks-j

 

[justin146]

I know I can run with the Lightning meter, but I HIGHLY DOUBT the truck will run worth a damn if I just stick it in and fire it up to go get it tuned with the Lightning sensor.

Suggestions for how I can have the pickup driveable when the time comes? Will the Explorer sensor have enough range with a larger housing?

The truck is not going to run at all if you just plug in the new sesor. You are going to have to do what I did and let your tuner send you a base tune you can load into the truck to get it runing before you get it tuned. James sent me a base tune for my Lightning meter and 39lb injectors that was pretty close, but it took just a few hours (over the span of a few days because I was busy) of emailing datalogs back to him for him to nail the driveability. I then drove the truck for about a week on this mail order tune before he came to do my actual tune.

If you must drive to your tuner, you will have to do the injector and MAF swap there. The truck will be driveable with the stock tune, injectors, and MAF as long as you dont let it get into boost. Keep in mind, an injector swap isnt an easy thing to do when the engine is in the truck. It took me about 9 hours to get mine in with just me working on it because you have to remove the whole upperintake manifold.

 

[chriswells78]

It took me about 9 hours to get mine in with just me working on it because you have to remove the whole upperintake manifold.

Yup, there is lots of stuff in the way on a 5.0

 

[jah81592]

This is what I was trying to say in the other thread - not that you won't need to retune, obviously with this level of modification you will, but that a Ford MAF is going to be easier to work with than an aftermarket one, which everyone has warned about.

Jah hopefully when it comes time for tuning on my Ex-rod I'll be able to convince you to come to Atlanta for some tuning..

Not a problem! Give me a reason to come to Atl.

The truck is not going to run at all if you just plug in the new sesor. You are going to have to do what I did and let your tuner send you a base tune you can load into the truck to get it runing before you get it tuned. James sent me a base tune for my Lightning meter and 39lb injectors that was pretty close, but it took just a few hours (over the span of a few days because I was busy) of emailing datalogs back to him for him to nail the driveability. I then drove the truck for about a week on this mail order tune before he came to do my actual tune.

If you must drive to your tuner, you will have to do the injector and MAF swap there. The truck will be driveable with the stock tune, injectors, and MAF as long as you dont let it get into boost. Keep in mind, an injector swap isnt an easy thing to do when the engine is in the truck. It took me about 9 hours to get mine in with just me working on it because you have to remove the whole upperintake manifold.

You are 100% right Justin

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Swapping injectors doesn't scare me one bit. Between my dad (35yr mechanic and shop owner), his 5 tech's, and my stepdad (also 30+ yr mechanic), any questions/problems should be more than easily solved with a couple phone calls.

The wiring pigtail on the MAF is plug-and-play right, like no cut-n-splice is necessary? I realize it won't fire up and run if I just plug it in, but at least it will plug straight in, correct? If I do have to take it somewhere and it won't run I can get a car trailer and tow rig easy, no worries there.

 

[chriswells78]

What year wiring harness did you use? My lightning meter just plugged right into the factory connector on my 96.

If yours doesn't, see this.
http://www.lasotaracing.com/Late model maf.html

 

[jah81592]

If you used a harness from an OBD-II fuel injection then it (Lightning meter) will be plug and play.

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Oh. I have the MAF on the Exploder, so it should plug and go in that case.