might have found a 5-spd

[mcompton1973]

WEll,
after talking to you guys, and talking to some jeep guys...I think that either vehicle would prob hold up...but i have to say the explorer will prob hold up with more comfort and room...

I have decided that it would have to be a v8 or a 5 speed as I cant see an auto holding up...and i think the 5 speed might be a little more responsive. (besides I like to drive 5 speeds anyways)

v-8's are 96 or newer only, and I cant afford that...so I am looking for a 5 speed. I have finally found 1. It is at a dealer about 45mins away from me. for me that is not too bad.

It is a white 94 5 spd with 119k miles. They are asking 5900 but I know they dont expect to get near that. I am wondering

a...What things should i pay close attention to when I go look at and drive this thing? Any week spots (ie old mustangs always rust first in the cowls, and floors) that I need to look for? Any tell tale signs I should know about?

b...What kinds of things can I look to do to help make the thing bullet proof? ok if not bullet proof at least help mgp and reliability. Or maybe a little more torquish also? hahaha. I am sre there is some kind of commone cheep and easy mods that some one can point me to right?

Thanks for all the help. I will keep you posted on whatever I get.

 

[udmsvt]

ok, first just an fyi, i paid 4700 for my 93 ex sport 5-speed last july. it had 79k, pw,pl,4x4,alarm, keyless, and a 1yr/15k powertrain warr. a buddy of mine bought his 94 from the same dealer later, same setup, minus alarm, but had 110k, same price.

look for rust. they start to rust at the back of the doors. i didnt see any at first, but after i bought it, i noticed that the guy before had put some of that black gripper stuff that you see on stairs just inside the doos and it covered up the rust. check evrything and of course for leaks. carefully check the inside of all 4 tires...mine was out of alignment and cupping on the inside but they had rotated to the back. get the vin and run a carfax (buy the 30-day membership for 20 bucks in case you decide to check out other vehicles). take it to a dealer for an inspection, anywhere from 25-75 bucks and most used dealers wont mind. try and get a warranty, at least powertrain. check everthinng power, mechanical, everything that moves. i needed new tracks for the ash tray, and the e-brake didnt work, lieu and behold it needed a brake job too, almost 900 bucks later!

basically, look over every inch, under the hood, in the fender wells, underneath, check for discoloration in paint. the guy before me hit something and on the outside all i saw was a small dent. the headlight door and headlight bracket were broken and bumper slightly bent, as i later found out...all i did was replace the headlight door. the bracket still works ok and the buymper is hardly noticable.

just be cautious...and dont pay over 5k for a 1st gen unless its loaded with low miles or customized.

 

[ld50]

Bring a list of axle codes with you so that you can reference them with the code found on the driver`s door, or ask the dealer to tell you.
You can find them easily enough here with a search.

It sucks to find that you have gotten the 3.27 open diffs when it is possible to get lower ratios with ltd slip

lower ratio = more pep. ltd slip= more traction.

It is also best to find one with MANUAL hubs, the autos will blow befere a manual will.

when i bought my 93, i noticed the only real rust was in the one place it is hard to see, under the plastic "tupperware"

When you drive it of course you can ensure the tranny shifts smoothly, etc.

be nice to engage the 4 wheel drive somewhere, the dealer guaranteed mine for a certain amount of time, so at least get some kind of agreement if you cant try it out.

 

[udmsvt]

good point about the hubs.. from what i hear anything over 100k on them is luck. when i bought mine, it was a dry july day sop we had to test the 4wd by truning it on and cuitting the wheel if it hangs up with the 4wd on and the wheel cut, it probably works.

axle codes are helpful...i had no idea about diff ratios when i bought mine, even though i wound up with 3.27s, i would have still bought it.

if poss, try and find one with a manual t-case too. that wil be very hard but if you can, it makes it nice for wheeling later on.

 

[mcompton1973]

Thanks

Thanks a ton.
I will keep in mind that I should be able to find it cheeper. I was really thinking that I should be able to buy it at 4500 or less. It is at a HUGE ford dealer out here...and the price is what is listed on the internet. I am sure that I can work on that.

I will do a search on Axel codes and see what I can find and take it with me. Thanks on that tip. I drove a '96 auto that a friend of mine owns and it did not seem very peppy......but it was front and rear air, keyless etc....and really a soccer mom of a car. I wonder if it had 3.27 and so that may have left me feeling that it was a little sluggish.

I am not a eal hot rodder.....but i do like to be first across an intersection

Thanks again