1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-Temporarily on hold-

[allmyEXes]

@Rick I'm just about ready to order some braided SS fuel line. I see that you Rick have used a few feet of it in the past. I found some hose that I wanted you to check out the specs on. The inner material is CPE. Is this the "norm" for braided line?

• Application
  

  Universal, Great for coolant, fuel, diesel, oil, hydraulic fluid, pump gas, alcohol and air.​

  
  100% Brand NEW
  CPE braided hose mostly can be work with coolant, diesel, oil, hydraulic fluid, pump gas, air and fuel.
  Please notice that the service life might be shorter when it work with fuel.
  This braided hose can be used in brake system, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil return, fuel return system, turbo cooler system, and transmission system, oil cooler kit, etc.
  Stainless steel braid cover for excellent flexibility and resistance to abrasion.
  Inner material chlorinated polyethylene (CPE)
  Work pressure 1000PSI
  Burse pressure 6000PSI
  Working temperatures -40F to 257F(-40c to 125C)
  Size detail
  4AN ID 5.56MM/0.22IN OD 11.18MM/0.44IN
  6AN ID 8.73MM/0.34IN OD 13.89MM/0.47IN
  8AN ID 11.13MM/0.44IN OD16.28MM/0.64IN
  10AN ID 14.29MM/0.56IN OD 20.24MM/0.79IN
  

  ​

  Not recommended installation in corrosive environment, braided fuel line's service life will be influenced.
  Outer nylon braided has excellent inflaming and safer to use.
  Professional installation is highly recommended.

 

[Josh P]

Many years ago I watched someone do an alignment with a string and a giant yardstick type ruler.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P @410Fortune At the shop, we have a hub gauge and a toe stick. It would be nice to have a pair of hub gauges, but you can only adjust camber/caster one side at a time anyway. The toe always has to be redone after caster or camber changes.
Yesterday we bit the bullet and ordered a Vevor hydraulic metal tube flaring kit. We will use it on almost every antique vehicle that we build in whole or part. I have a '66 coupe coming up to make into a roller to sell. I'll need the tool when we swap Granada/Mav front disc brake assemblies on to it. This tool kit will even do bubble flairs and the GM fuel and transmission line ends. It might even do the little ridge bend on the end of fuel lines where a hose would be slipped over, but I'm not sure though. Yet!

 

[allmyEXes]

Last week while I had the left front tire/wheel off of the '97 MM to remove the stock fuel lines that run from the mainlines to the fuel rails, I noticed that the rubber sway bar bushings were gone. I ordered some urethane replacements. So far on the "salt free" Explorers that I have replaced the end link bushings on, I haven't need the kits wit the long bolt/s. Hopefully the MM is this way. I've found evidence in the truck of it spending a little time near the Illinois and Missouri border. The PO had an accent not from here too.

I still haven't had any input on what type of braided hose to use with the AN hardware. I'm starting to figure out how all of it works though.
The 6 and 8 AN female straight swivels (black) showed up in the mail too. The way that they are designed, it looks like a variety of hose ID size will work with them. I checked the fit to the fuel line adapter fittings (aluminum). The black fittings are Fragola brand. Supposedly one of the better brands.

Fragola "Proudly made in the USA" The aluminum Ford spring lock to AN fittings are made in China.
We will see if they are going to leak or not once assembled.

 

[allmyEXes]

Last Friday, I went to Advance and picked up a 3/8" nut, 3/16" line "T". It was $5-. Everything online was twice that. I did get a 15 piece union and line nuts kit on Amazon for a good price. This is all of the additional hardware I will need to delete ABS.

 

[allmyEXes]

Today my security key dongle from Khazakhstan showed up and it goes with some software that will enable me to get on the inside? break into? the 2003 Ford fullsize luxury sedan PCM that I will eventually be using to control the '97 Mountaineer 5.0. This drivetrain will eventually power my '54 F100 on a 1999 Ranger short bed chassis. Pictured below is the USB security key dongle thing-a-ma-jig along with some software, that will enable me to read/write the PCM. It will take all winter to figure all of this out and understand what I think I'm trying to do.

Through the last few months, I have been collecting up the tools and software to 'tune' the 2003 PCM. designated laptop, VCM2 device, software to communicate with the Ford PCM including the dongle to be able to use the software. My black box that I started making has to do with this too.

1954 F100 short bed body onto a 1999 Ranger short bed Chassis

5 plus years ago this is why I originally joined the Explorer forum. I searched far and wide and even at one point I reached the end of the internet. Click here for the end of the Internet> End of the Internet. So I started over and Finally I found a page on the Explorer forum. It was a guy...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[allmyEXes]

5 or so weeks ago, I overlooked adding the pictures to the parts acquired thread. I'm at the point now of finishing a 4'x5' work table for the 1999 Crown Vic powertrain harness. The trans and O2 connectors still need to be removed from the 1997 Merc Moutaineer.. I will need two more wiring books in the future. 1999 Ranger and 2003 Crown Victoria.
Below is the special connector for the 2020 7.3 "Godzilla" coil near plug coil. Almost $10- each.

The 97 5.0 had a return fuel line type of fuel system. So did the 1999 Crown Victoria. Both share the same poundage injectors. The 97 had a different style connector than the Crown Victoria injector, so I bought injectors for the 99 CV to match the injector connectors on the 99 Crown Vic.

 

[CDW6212R]

5 or so weeks ago, I overlooked adding the pictures to the parts acquired thread. I'm at the point now of finishing a 4'x5' work table for the 1999 Crown Vic powertrain harness. The trans and O2 connectors still need to be removed from the 1997 Merc Moutaineer.. I will need two more wiring books in the future. 1999 Ranger and 2003 Crown Victoria.
Below is the special connector for the 2020 7.3 "Godzilla" coil near plug coil. Almost $10- each.
View attachment 444299
The 97 5.0 had a return fuel line type of fuel system. So did the 1999 Crown Victoria. Both share the same poundage injectors. The 97 had a different style connector than the Crown Victoria injector, so I bought injectors for the 99 CV to match the injector connectors on the 99 Crown Vic.

Thanks for the connector discovery and price, more to get for the project.

The fuel injector change happened at the same time as the fuel system change, and for all Ford products, after the 1998 model year. So all 1999 models have that later model injector, and the returnless fuel system.

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R Even though the Explorer went return-less in 1999? the 1999 Crown Victoria and 2000 was still return line style. 2001 is when the Crown Victoria went return-less. It's not uncommon For FoMoCo to change something one year on a particular model and not on another. I've spent quite a lot of time reading about 1999 through 2003 Crown Victoria's and when certain things changed. Explorers just a little. Mostly 1997 Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 since that is what year that I have that I'm modifying.
When I upgrade to the 2003 Full size Luxury sedan PCM, not only will I have to make the full system return-less, I will also have to change to a different injector and fuel pump, not to mention the piece that goes on the fuel rail that @410Fortune, Jamie is going to send me. I would have to look in my notes here to tell you what it is called but it is an electronic sensor that feeds back to the PCM.
At that time, I may need a 2001 Explorer fuel rail assembly too.
I won't be upgrading to the 2003 PCM until the engine comes out to be rebuilt and installed in the 1954 F100/ 1999 Ranger chassis.
Imp & 2000StreetRod return-less fuel system discussion

 

[CDW6212R]

You can still use either style of fuel system with either PCM type, so say the tuning "experts." I haven't considered doing that, but you might if the application is mild and NA.

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R That is true...

 

[allmyEXes]

I received a few parts last week that I don't have pictures of and this week a 2003 Crown Vic PCM arrived.
It will be what I'm ultimately going to use on this project.

Also, a pair of crimper pliers that will be used to crimp the 7.3 coil connectors picture in post #107

No instructions but they shouldn't be hard to figure out.

What chip is inside ford eec*? - Page 1 - rusefi.com

 

[allmyEXes]

I bought a second 2003 PCM last week. It is new with no box and has never been used. When I pay to get my "tune", I will have a copy made in case of the first PCM failing. It could stay in the truck stored somewhere.

 

[allmyEXes]

(late response to) @CDW6212R Don, the C-N-P guys over at dynotune.com forum turned me onto the coil connector source. There are at least two, maybe more, guys doing coil-near-plug conversions using the "Godzilla" coils with the retuned Ford EEC-V PCM.
It has been a long, hot, blistering summer and now that we are well in to fall the temps have come down a bit. 80F w/30% humidity is a lot better than 95F with 80%humidity. Now that it's cooler, it is a lot more comfortable to be out in the sun and not sweating all over everything.
Yesterday, mid-day, I was able to work on the 5.0 for 2+ hours. For those who haven't been following along, I'm converting the old, wasted spark ignition to a coil-near-plug (CNP) system using the EEC-V PCM.
I was at the point where it is time to change to the 1999 injectors. The connecting plug is different between the '97 MM and the '99 CV. Also, my injectors needed to be cleaned or replaced anyway.

The valve covers need to come off to be modified for the CNP brackets to be mounted there. On the left cover are brackets that hold the
pair of fuel lines that supply and return fuel. AN fittings and braided hose will replace them.

Brackets on drivers side (left in USA) that need to be removed.

Brackets after removal.

For a 250K engine the oil crud/sludge build up is minimal.

After removal of the brackets and using the roloc tool with an 80 disc on it. Of course, I had to stop and drive over to Wal-mart to get a
can of gloss black primer+paint. I couldn't put it back together cruddy.

It's not perfect but it will be mostly covered by the coil brackets and upper plenum. Now it is time for the right-side cover.

While I was working on it, I was trying to determine what is holding the PCM harness to the back of the left head. Something must be pushed in to bolt hole on the back of the head. I'm going to have to jack the thing up to get to the transmission connectors. Also the injector connector all the way back on the right side needs disconnected. There is something blocking it. I need the powertrain harness off of here to make the "new" harness out of it and the'99 CV powertrain harness.

 

[97Sandbox]

While I was working on it, I was trying to determine what is holding the PCM harness to the back of the left head. Something must be pushed in to bolt hole on the back of the head. I'm going to have to jack the thing up to get to the transmission connectors. Also the injector connector all the way back on the right side needs disconnected. There is something blocking it. I need the powertrain harness off of here to make the "new" harness out of it and the'99 CV powertrain harness.

On my '99 there's a T christmas tree thing wrapped in the wire harness (not sure how else to describe, hopefully you know what I mean) that is pushed into a hole in the back of the left head preventing that section of harness (to trans? or O2 sensor? I didn't even look ) from moving around. I was able to reach back and undo mine because I had the steering shaft disconnected and exhaust manifold removed -- it's a tight spot though.

 

[410Fortune]

Can jack up the t case to get more space back there to work

With the intake off you should easily be able to release the entire wiring harness once you get the trans and 02 sensors unplugged

I have a topside creeper I bought for working on diesels I use it all the time for working on the back of the intake areas

 

[allmyEXes]

Yesterday I was able to lay across the engine with the upper plenum removed and feel the "christmas tree" thing "Blue Spruce Pine tree"? on the back of the head. I need to find my "door panel popper" tool to reach down there to see if it will pop it out. I anticipate having to 'fight" with the O2 sensor connectors a bit. I have to remove the transmission shifter switch? anyway because of a change sometime between 1997 and 1999. The Crown Vic switch and connector is different than the '97 MM. I have read that on this forum something about it when some of you guys were performing transmission swaps or 5.0 "upgrade" swaps. All tips and suggestions help!

 

[410Fortune]

96-97 use analog dtrs
98-01 use digital dtrs true

Getting the 3ea 02 sensor plugs is easiest through the floor access

You can rzr blade the tape on the wire harness to get it loose from the blue plastic retainer. I cannot believe how strong plastic wire retainers can be
Harbor freight trim tool makes short work of them

 

[97Sandbox]

Yesterday I was able to lay across the engine with the upper plenum removed and feel the "christmas tree" thing "Blue Spruce tree"? on the back of the head.

You can rzr blade the tape on the wire harness to get it loose from the blue plastic retainer. I cannot believe how strong plastic wire retainers can be
Harbor freight trim tool makes short work of them

The blue plastic must be way stronger than the regular white/natural plastic. I couldn't get it out of my head with a trim tool or a flat prybar so I just ripped the tape and just left the tree where it was.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, pull the carpet back under the console area, the access panel there is to get to the top of the trans, the O2 sensor connectors and harness. You will need to work through there for all of that trans wiring etc.

I like the stock valve covers for all applications with stock rockers, for the oil fill tube, and it's good to mount any CNP brackets onto.

I've got three sets of new VC's that were not ideal for EFI applications, or just wrong(old style - two simple holes made for basic breathers). One I was going to use for my work truck 302 swap, mild EFI etc, that's over. The other VC's I want for nice EFI engines, so I have to fix the holes, weld up one and add a fill tube to the other, plus the CNP brackets, and paint.