Missing off load/Stalling?

[Joe Dirt]

Wow- ok... Sounds like the 214 code is my problem then for the hesitation. The 327 may not be related to that then? I did exchange the PFE this week, so that is brand new, and the code was showing up before the exchange as well. I'll check the connections on there, and check to see if maybe I have a split wire or something...

I'm ordering a CMP today, and see how that works.

Thanks Dale, much appreciated...

Mike- I checked the cats this morning, and all was well there, equal temps at either end of the cat...

 

[Joe Dirt]

Ok, how can I find one? Dealer says discontinued, and the repainted $395 used ones on eBay don't thrill me... Can't find one on rock, fastparts, autozone, advance, etc, etc...

Junkyard?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Too expensive!

Ok, how can I find one? Dealer says discontinued, and the repainted $395 used ones on eBay don't thrill me... Can't find one on rock, fastparts, autozone, advance, etc, etc...

Junkyard?

I spent a few minutes on ebay and found a new motorcraft one for $70 plus shipping. autopartsdirect2you
or you can pick one up for less at a salvage yard.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Ok- I have question about that one- I saw it, but I also read here that the '95 was it's own ******* part, with different electrical connections. I think I'm going to go to the yard tomorrow, see if I can find the '95 that was there a few weeks back, and snag the sensor. If it matcheds this one, I'll order a new one, plus have a spare.

I appreciate all of the help on this thread!!!! She's getting worse, doesn't want to start so well, and when it does, idle is at about 200rpm unless I stay on the gas. If the sensor is it, I'm sure it's beginning to give up the ghost.

What about the Crank sensor? Do I have one? If so, I may toss one of those on as well for what they cost. I'll report back on the cam sensor...

Thanx!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ckp

Yes, you definitely have a crankshaft sensor (CKP). It's mounted on the engine front cover next to the toothed trigger wheel. The CKP signals the PCM when #1 and #5 pistons are 60 degrees BTDC via a missing tooth on the trigger wheel. The PCM also uses the CKP for engine speed determination.

By the way, I looked up DTC 214: Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems. How did you determine that this DTC was caused by a bad CMP and not the CKP or something else?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Dtc 214

I found this info on DTC on a Q&A website:

"Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 214 indicates an error has been detected in the Cylinder Identification (CID) input signal. The error could be due to a hard fault or an intermittent condition.

Possible causes:

Open or shorted harness.
Damaged Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor.
Damaged Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
Damaged Ignition Control Module (ICM).
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Before I go and replace the CMP, CKP or ICM, I would clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, check for a loose or dirty connector at the CMP CKP and ICM. If they are clean and tight, and there is no damage to the wiring, have the codes pulled by an OBD-II scanner and get the P code. This will pinpoint the problem, CMP, CKP or ICM."

I think it takes an expensive scanner to read OBD-I codes with an OBD-II scanner. In my opinion, the location of the CKP is much more vulnerable to damage and corrosion than the CMP. Probably the reason new CMPs are so hard to find is they are very reliable and rarely need replacement. There is no physical contact between the sensor and the rotor so no wear. It's the same type of device as used in the later pointless distributors. If you can get both a CMP and CKP at a salvage yard for a cheap price I'd buy both. Thanks to you I now know that CMPs are hard to come by and will probably buy one soon for a spare to use years from now.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Dale,

Honestly- I didn't know where it was coming from, but now I know that the code can be triggered by multiple things. I always read that the 214 was from the CMP on the forum, and it only affected startup, (both on my truck and in test on the forum) so I guess I've been thinking that for 2 years.

UPDATE: I don't know what happened overnight, but today the truck ran great. Maybe Snowball pulled a "Christine" overnight? I left to go to the junkyard, and the hesitation was gone, acceleration was great, and the 214 code was only in memory after running codes following the second clean cycle. During the KOER test, it wasn't showing up anymore. I am going to look at the crank sensor tonight, and see if maybe the connector is damaged or something. Nothing changed from last night- hesitated on the way home, park in the garage, go out today and it was fine from the start. Stupid cars. I had been clearing that code for 2 years, it always comes back...

They didn't have a CMP sensor at the junkyard, the only truck that had one was a '97, and someone took the tranny, dropped the engine, and broke the sensor in the process. Grrrr... In other thoughts, I think the sensor part for sale on eBay may be the same- it only looks like the internals. I think the rest of the sensor is different. I'll bet the internals fit into all of those other sensors...?

Since the 214 was gone during KOER and the truck ran fine, I'm assuming that it is the problem. I do have a buddy with the killer code reader, so we're going to try that in the next few days...

The 327 code was still all over, and the CEL did come on today, although it did take longer than normal (the truck was warm) so I still don't know what that's all about, unless it's being triggered somehow by something else...

 

[Joe Dirt]

The bad-ass code reader won't do anything. I have it hooked up under the hood, as I know the port under the hood is a dummy in the '95, and we get nothing. Won't pull up anything. It's the same Actron reader that's at Autozone, but it's the high-end one also re-cased and re-branded by Snap-On. Is there another fuse for the diag's? When I run my codes with a wire, I do get the fading quick blink at the start which is supposed to be the electronic code reader key, as far as I've read, but nothing comes up on the code reader. I now suspect that the code reader they have is only OBD-II...

The Crank sensor also looks good, unless there is a problem with it internally.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Newest developments- the truck still runs fine. My CEL now comes on after the truck warms up- it has been going progressively longer into my morning commute before turning on. I suspect that it also has to do with taking longer to warm up becasue of ambient temp. Still working on it!