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Multi-Function Switch Wiring? Stuck Blinker

Modern Day Warrior

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2000 Explorer XLT
2000 Explorer XLT

Original problem was loss of power windows, wipers, interior light, and speedometer. Tracked the problem to a short to 12 VDC in the instrument cluster that was blowing a fuse (GEM/instrument cluster/PAT fuse, 25 or 28). Ordered a replacement instrument cluster at LKQ for $50. Installed it. Everything seemed ok[1].

I've also been having intermittent issues with multi-function switch - turn signals won't work every so often. The new 1A Auto multi-function switch arrived late, so I had to remove the cowling and take off the multi-function switch off one more time. At some point in the process, the left turn signal hazards came on even without the key in the ignition. After taking the MFS off and on multiple times, the connector for the wiring hardness is falling apart - tabs broke and now the wires are pulling out. Possibly mixed them up. The wipers, washer, and high beams works fine. But the turn signals are not working except for sometimes the left turn signal hazards will be stuck on. The switch positions are irrelevant.

1. Any ideas about the left signal hazards being stuck on?
2. Any pictures or diagrams of the turn signal wiring harness connector.
3. Any possible connection between the instrument cluster replacement?


[1] Well, now ABS light is on, but I find out that the bulb for the ABS indicator light was burned out on the original instrument.

EDIT: Note that the instrument cluster seems to have a burned out right signal indicator - it is actually all left/right front/rear indicators that are coming on, i.e., hazards, not just the left turn signal.
 



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If the wires are mixed up, I can't predict what malfunction that might cause so I'd focus on that first.

I would now wonder if your old MFS was okay and it was just the connector problem. I mean if you get to the end of the repair and the new MFS doesn't work still, try the old one just in case the new is defective.

Wires pulling out is a common problem, some people put a little hot glue or epoxy in the back (taking care not to use an excessive amount) to fix the wires in place permanently but make sure that the contacts inside are positioned well if the connector holes are wide. It might help if you plugged your old MFS into it to keep the pins in place while repairing.

See if either of these seem to match. They're mostly the same but at least one wire color difference.

A scan tool capable of Ford codes should help with the ABS.
 

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@J_C is the man
 






Thanks! Are there troubleshooting steps for the signals similar to the wiper/high beams? That's some good detail.

I confirmed that the wiring is correct, also found this post with some pictures.

Also, once it got dark outside, I realized it wasn't just the left signal that was only turning on. All four signals are turning on, as if the hazards were on. Interestingly, if I turn the hazards ON with the MFS, the signals turn OFF. Only the left signal indicator was turning on at the instrument cluster, but now I assume that the new (used) instrument cluster must have a burned out bulb for the right signal.

I've swapped back and forth with the old and new MFS and the behavior is the same. The old MFS had two issues - one with the switches for the high beam/flash to pass switch not always working and the other that sometimes the signals wouldn't work or would stay on.

I'm very suspicious that the new (used) instrument cluster is at fault for the issue with the signals. Thinking to pull it out and retry it with the original instrument cluster - except I have to be careful because the original cluster blows my GEM/PATS/instrument cluster fuse if I plug in all of the connectors. At the minimum, I could replace the right signal indicator bulb.

EDIT: It occurred to me that it's possible that something shorted when the wires were pulled out of the connector, possibly blowing some component. Does "hazards flashing when OFF" suggest something?
 






^ If they flash with the MFS switch not set to hazards but don't with the MFS disconnected, I can only guess that the MFS is bad, or less likely that there is a wiring (or connector/pin) short and moving the connector around to plug or unplug the MFS is causing that to be intermittent.

At some point it becomes difficult to advise on a multi-function circuit over the internet, trying to follow some path of possibilities when making assumptions where if too many are made, it could be a waste of time. It is best to get the wiring diagrams linked in my sig and use a multimeter to trace where power is and isn't, when it should and shouldn't be there.
 






How to test the MFS?

Should the flasher input be electrically connected to the right signal or left signal in those switch positions?
 






The wiring diagram for it is among those linked in my sig below, a file named exterior-lights-exterior-lamps-circuit-1-of-1.pdf
The flasher module is in series between the interior fuse box and the MFS.

multifunction lever switch testing pinout.gif
Multi Function Switch testing.png
 






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