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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
It's the throttle body butterfly valve/throttle blade.
It used to happen to me on my old 4.0L Throttle Body on VERY cold mornings...
Remove the air intake tube from the front of the engine @ the throttle body.
While opening the throttle body blade, spray some Carb/throttle body cleaner on the shaft that is rotating in the body.
Clean in all out, and button it all back up.
NOTE: For BEST results, I recommend removal of the Throttle Body....and cleaning it that way....but depending on your skill level, do it at your own risk.
the first gens are bad for this, on the throttle body there is a black cover over the area above the cables, take this off. you will now see the spring that returns the flap the resting position. clean that out with brake clean then apply WD-40 and move it to WOT/IDLE with your hand.
if the intake is dirty, then with a rag wipe down the areas were the flap contacts the actual throttle body. there may be a small layer of gunk engine that is making it sticky.
all i got, i don't think your cable would seize up.
On our 92 the sticking throttle was a worn out throttle body. When we looked in the TB we could see the wear on the wall from the throttle plate. It would stick a little when opening. It would also stick when trying to close if you slowly closed it.
The final solution was a new to us TB from a yard.
I just had a similar problem with my 93. The throttle stuck under WOT and the response wasn't what it used to be.
The WOT problem turned out to be the gasket from the intake tube to the throttle body. The inner part of the gasket was torn and being sucked into the throttle body and holding the butterfly open.
The response problem was equally strange. I tried the zip-tie fix at the pedal which didn't seem to do much. I pulled the cable assembly out of the truck and cut off the rubber insulation. To my surprise, the outer cable housing was GONE! It had completely rusted away six inches away from the firewall. This caused the inner cable to effectively become longer. The only thing holding it together was the rubber shield.
I bought a new cable and an intake tube and the truck is finally fixed.