Explorer_PL
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- November 16, 2007
- Messages
- 2,914
- Reaction score
- 221
- City, State
- Rockland County, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 06EB V8
Yesterday, I took a day off to catch up with few things and to change my front brakes as I occasionally heard them grinding even though there was still pad material. I got a set of 2 rotors and pads off ebay for $ 80 ( I know - cheap stuff but works for me). I already drove close to 100 miles and it feels great. I also cleaned the slide bolts and greased them. But that is besides the point.
When I had my passenger side front wheel off, I removed the wheel well liner, because the ticking was coming from that side. Of course I found the upper #4 stud broken off, and the black soot marks on the head. Also, once the engine cooled down, I started the engine with my remote starter while having my eyes and ears right in there - no doubt it was coming from there.
Now, for those who never looked there, upper # 4 is probably the easiest to fix, but not in my case. The guys who did that repair and replaced the manifolds on these trucks should receive a "most patient people" award. Even with a somewhat clean access to the stud who broke about 2 mm below the head surface level, how can you get the drill centered in there ? This is the most tight space I have seen. If people with 4.6 in F150s are having problems getting a drill there, than in a smaller engine bay of an Explorer it's close to impossible. In the end I was able to drill about 1/4 inch into the stud, but not centered, and when my bolt extractor caught it finally, it just snapped leaving the tip there. Someone said that it's sometimes better to pull the motor out of the truck. I can't imagine drilling the broken studs that are behind the strut tower.
Questions:
1. How can I drill out the "easy out" bit ?
2. How close is the water jacket to the stud ? Is it right behind the end of the stud ?
3. What is the size of the studs: 8mm, 10 mm, or 3/8 in or what ?
Thanks
When I had my passenger side front wheel off, I removed the wheel well liner, because the ticking was coming from that side. Of course I found the upper #4 stud broken off, and the black soot marks on the head. Also, once the engine cooled down, I started the engine with my remote starter while having my eyes and ears right in there - no doubt it was coming from there.
Now, for those who never looked there, upper # 4 is probably the easiest to fix, but not in my case. The guys who did that repair and replaced the manifolds on these trucks should receive a "most patient people" award. Even with a somewhat clean access to the stud who broke about 2 mm below the head surface level, how can you get the drill centered in there ? This is the most tight space I have seen. If people with 4.6 in F150s are having problems getting a drill there, than in a smaller engine bay of an Explorer it's close to impossible. In the end I was able to drill about 1/4 inch into the stud, but not centered, and when my bolt extractor caught it finally, it just snapped leaving the tip there. Someone said that it's sometimes better to pull the motor out of the truck. I can't imagine drilling the broken studs that are behind the strut tower.
Questions:
1. How can I drill out the "easy out" bit ?
2. How close is the water jacket to the stud ? Is it right behind the end of the stud ?
3. What is the size of the studs: 8mm, 10 mm, or 3/8 in or what ?
Thanks