My Ford Ranger won’t start. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

My Ford Ranger won’t start.

Dillinger210

New Member
Joined
September 4, 2021
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
City, State
Barstow, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000, Ford, Ranger 4x4 3L
My truck was having problems before this. It would run but it would have trouble going under load. If I was at a complete stop I would have to barley push on gas for it to start going. And even then it a ***** to get momentum. I noticed it started to do this after my back lights stopped working one day. Then the other day as I was literally taking it for someone to look at. It just wouldn’t start again. I got a jump n it was iding real rough. So, then I go to go home and I make it a quarter mile if that n then lose power n the dash starts to go crazy. Shutting on n off then I turn it off n wont start again. This time no power whatsoever except for the ding ding. Can anyone help, please??? Thanks.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Welcome to the forum. It is generally better to only introduce yourself here and post vehicle-specific problems in the appropriate subforum for that vehicle so more fellow owners see the topic.

Trouble going under a load makes me wonder if your fuel pressure is low, so would check that in both engine idle state and while revving it, but before that I would hook up a scan tool and look for OBD2 trouble codes and some realtime data like the long term fuel trims, but see below, low electrical system voltage can cause the fuel pump not to perform properly, as well as cause misfires from spark plugs not firing, so checking the electrical system voltage is what I'd do first, then the scan tool second if nothing looks wrong with the electrical system.

Back lights stopped working, I would ignore for time time being unless it relates to what I write next.

Not starting, the idling rough, then losing power and especially the dash starts to go crazy is typical of low electrical system voltage, so it is likely your alternator is bad or the battery is very bad (probably a shorted cell to pull voltage down that much if the alternator is still working okay).

You could hook a battery charger up to the battery and see if it runs better after that, but before starting it, after the charger is disconnected for a few minutes, see what the rest state voltage is on the battery, should be pretty near 12.6V. If it is closer to 10.4V you have a shorted cell in the battery, assuming you left the charger on long enough to charge it otherwise.

If it stays near 12.6V, starts the vehicle fine, but then the longer it runs, the lower the voltage drops (should be around 14.4V with engine running), it is likely the alternator, assuming you don't have battery clamp or clamp wire corrosion causing inadequate power delivery but corrosion issues would be more apparent trying to start it than if it starts fine but then inadequate voltage drop later.

I don't know your familiarity with the resources available but many local auto parts stores will do a rudimentary alternator or battery test for free, or pull OBD2 codes but not realtime scan tool data. Generally to do work on older vehicle electrical systems you at least need a multimeter, but the fuel pressure can be checked with a (free) loaner tool from many auto parts stores.
 






You lost alternator charge, and everything went south from there. A jump got you going again but then you ran the battery down again which is why all the bells and whistles lit up.

Check your alternator fuse. If it checks good, then have your alternator checked - possibly replaced. Don't be surprised if the extra strain also caused the battery to fail. I'd suggest new battery clamps at this time also.
 












If no power, I would check first the battery or the alternator.
 






Back
Top