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My list of Explorer - "How to" videos

i have the 4.0 but do u know how to replace the oil pan gasket i dont know if its the same as the v8
 



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i have the 4.0 but do u know how to replace the oil pan gasket i dont know if its the same as the v8

Im not sure on how the crossmember layout is on the 4.0. I would definitely be a pain on the 5.0 cause the crossmember only gives you 1/2 inch or so of play. Sorry i cant be more helpful!
 






Pretty much for a 4.0, you gotta either pull engine for oil pan, or jack it up a couple inches. Makes it a pain when you wanna see what big crap might be sittin at bottom, or if you gotta replace oil pump.
 






You know how it goes. You start searching for one thing and end up ten pages from where you started, not even remembering what it was you were after to start with (well, till you really think about it anyway or hit the back button a few times) and find a gem. Your zip tie throttle cable mod was mine. I just bought my 2001 X Sport last week and thought it had pretty good power for a 4.0. Out of curiousity, wedged myself under the dash and what do you know. Enough slack for 3 zip ties, with a little space to spare. What a difference a few zips make. Thanks! :thumbsup:

I'm curious, did doing the throttle cable mod cause your brakes to be extremely strong at first? For me after doing it, I went to slow down at end of my street and my brakes went on fully like as if I slammed them down. They have gone back to normal since but I'm wondering if this happend to anyone else? It's almost like it tightened both, or did I tighten both... Now that I think about it, I should check into that...
 












nice videos.

Thanks man!

I'm curious, did doing the throttle cable mod cause your brakes to be extremely strong at first? For me after doing it, I went to slow down at end of my street and my brakes went on fully like as if I slammed them down. They have gone back to normal since but I'm wondering if this happend to anyone else? It's almost like it tightened both, or did I tighten both... Now that I think about it, I should check into that...

The throttle cable mod should have nothing to do with your brakes in any way. Maybe you had one seized that unseized? or had rust on the rotors that made the pads grab extra hard?
 






Any advice on how to repair the drivers side electric window? I think the switch has gone out. The other three windows still work and I don't hear the motor try to run when I activate the switch. My plan was to pull the door panel and swap wires from a working window to isolate the switch. I don't want to break anything on the door panel. TIPS for disassembly are welcomed.
 












Nope, my brakes were fine. It just kind of squeezed way too hard after adjusting cable. Maybe I adjusted the brake cable also or it got pulled with gas pedal cable and loosened back after a couple stops cause it was fine.
 






THANK YOU! i can't tell you how helpful all your videos are! You just answered about 53 questions i had about my new explorer. Thanks again!!
 






does the throttle cable mod cause to much air and not enough fuel to the motor or does the computer compensate for the added air and increase fuel.
 






All the throttle cable mod does is allow you to open the throttle all the way like it should have from the factory. Due to manufacturing tolerances they don't always open all the way. Over time, cables stretch and that can also keep them from opening all the way.

The computer knows how far your opening the throttle and can accommodate the throttle opening closer to max than it used to.

~Mark
 






jlsparky7 said:
Thanks man. Plenty more to come. Just need some more cash, dont we all.

sparky, how about a video on finding the pcv valve.
Edwin
 






Any advice on how to repair the drivers side electric window? I think the switch has gone out. The other three windows still work and I don't hear the motor try to run when I activate the switch. My plan was to pull the door panel and swap wires from a working window to isolate the switch. I don't want to break anything on the door panel. TIPS for disassembly are welcomed.

I believe there are only 2-3 screws on the door panel and the rest are clips. They should be fairly easy to find. You have the right idea with testing the window motor. That should work fine. Double check your wiring for any breaks/bites/corrosion and that sort of thing.

I have you beat by 164,000 miles J...

lol. everyone on this forum prolly has me beat :)

THANK YOU! i can't tell you how helpful all your videos are! You just answered about 53 questions i had about my new explorer. Thanks again!!

Awesome man, glad I was able to help. More vids to come this summer :)

sparky, how about a video on finding the pcv valve.
Edwin

I will do one of those this summer. The PCV valve is difficult to get to on the 5.0 without taking off the intake manifold but i will give it my best shot. Ill post a vid when its done.
 






Video of Removing and Replacing Body Bushings on 2001 Explorer Sport

My son has a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport that needs the body mount bushings replaced - foam urethane is gone or almost gone in all of the 3 sets of bushings on the side. We already replaced the rears with Ford bushings and the front bushings are rubber and look fine. To remove the old side bushings, the carpet has to be removed or at least pulled back far enough to get to the top of the bushings to unscrew the bolts from the bushings, plus the seats have to be removed or moved around. A video showing how to at least get to the top of the bushings would be helpful, but one showing the entire process of removing and replacing the bushings with Daystar bushings would be very helpful. I have looked and looked and have not found any videos on the Internet showing the process.

Since this is a big problem for 2001 Sport and Sport Trac owners and Ford does not feel obligated to help with the repair costs or even give us any TSB bulletins with repair procedures, we are left to fend for ourselves. Either mechanics or body shops in my area (Atlanta) have never done the repairs before or if they have, like 4 Wheel Parts, they want to charge $500-$600 labor for the repairs. Others who have not done the repair cannot tell you how many hours it may take and you know how the labor cost could soar.
 






Any advice on how to repair the drivers side electric window? I think the switch has gone out. The other three windows still work and I don't hear the motor try to run when I activate the switch. My plan was to pull the door panel and swap wires from a working window to isolate the switch. I don't want to break anything on the door panel. TIPS for disassembly are welcomed.

Taking the door panel off is easy peasy lemon squeezy! There are two screws at the door handle that need to be removed. Then you have to pop that plastic piece out. Be very careful doing this. The piece is clipped in by a few tabs. Easiest way to pull it out is grab a small flathead screwdriver and pop it out from the back and of the handle (where it pivots). Then just push in and pull with the screwdriver going around the piece. It comes out quite easy. You just have to maneuver the handle to get the piece of completely. Next you take your screwdriver and start at the outside of the door about 6 inches below where the window starts. Put the screwdriver under the panel and pry towards you. It should pop out easily. If you don't pop anything out, move further down the door a few inches and try again. Once you get one or two clips popped out you can do the rest by hand. Next you have to lift the whole door panel up to get it off the door. Just lift from the bottom with one hand and use your top hand to guide the panel. Now once you have it off, just disconnect any wiring and you are good to go! Hope this helps

Also, is there any way you can show a video of cleaning the IAC from a 99 SOHC? It is different from the OHV. Thanks much!
 






Nice videos, especially for newbees like me. Thanks, jlsparky7!
 












btcman said:
My son has a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport that needs the body mount bushings replaced - foam urethane is gone or almost gone in all of the 3 sets of bushings on the side. We already replaced the rears with Ford bushings and the front bushings are rubber and look fine. To remove the old side bushings, the carpet has to be removed or at least pulled back far enough to get to the top of the bushings to unscrew the bolts from the bushings, plus the seats have to be removed or moved around. A video showing how to at least get to the top of the bushings would be helpful, but one showing the entire process of removing and replacing the bushings with Daystar bushings would be very helpful. I have looked and looked and have not found any videos on the Internet showing the process.

Since this is a big problem for 2001 Sport and Sport Trac owners and Ford does not feel obligated to help with the repair costs or even give us any TSB bulletins with repair procedures, we are left to fend for ourselves. Either mechanics or body shops in my area (Atlanta) have never done the repairs before or if they have, like 4 Wheel Parts, they want to charge $500-$600 labor for the repairs. Others who have not done the repair cannot tell you how many hours it may take and you know how the labor cost could soar.

The best write ups on how to replace body mount bushings are probably the PA body lift threads. It's a pain in the but and so much easier I think on a ranger. Energy suspension and ALOT of other sites are good. Try the tech section on www.therangerstation.com forums. Not trying to sway you to a different forum but theres ALOT of good info there.
 



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timing cover gasket

timing cover gasket V8 5.0? thanks for all the videos so much easyer to understand how to do thing life saver lol
 






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