My photos/schematics/diagrams still available.

[ncranchero]

You have mail.

 

[The_AntiPirate]

Thanks again! That's exactly what I needed.

 

[mcspeed]

NCRANCHERO,

I've searched the wiring posts and cant find something specific to wiring OEM fogs (ST 2001) . There are lots of generic diagrams but I'm hoping to get specific on where to get power. I see a wad of wires on the + battery terminal that are wrapped and appear to go nowhere....is this an opportunity?

I know I need to use relay and fuse but need to know the where to get the power. Fuse box under the air box? Or? The lights are Halo and fog so I want the halos to be on with ignition and I will do the fogs with a switch.

Recognizing that electrical is not my strong point, I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks,
mcspeed

 

[ncranchero]

I'll email you some info rather than take up a bunch of space here.

You will need two relays, one for the halo's and one for the fogs. Are you making your own harness or did you find lights that came with wiring? Either way they can be powered from the same source and triggered separately as you wish.

 

[mcspeed]

Thanks Steve,

Got your message and should have the project completed tomorrow. I was surprised at the cost of all the electrical stuff above and beyond the lights! It adds up rather quickly. It will be done properly and safe and should last a long time.
Thanks again!

 

[ncranchero]

It can add up quickly but it's cheaper than frying your ride!

 

[mcspeed]

With the help of ncranchero, the fog lights are installed!

The list of installs are longer than my leg so I will mention a couple of things that worked for me.

Pulled the trigger wire through the firewall via the hood release cable boot. I Taped the wire to a slim, long probe with some liquid soap for lubrication. Once inside I removed the probe and taped the wire going out to the existing wire (more soap lube) and pulled out. I slit the rubber tube over the hood release cable boot to allow space for the wire to protrude. Zip tied it all back together.

For power I used a Littlefuse add a fuse (a small plug in type fuse with a wire attached that plugs into the existing slot and has a fuse for the original circuit and one for the new circuit with a wire lead). I installed it in the fuse panel under the hood) I used my tester to find a slot powered only with key on (so my daughter doesn't leave the lights on).

I did have an aha moment when I powered it up for the first time. The ights worked then I checked again and they didn't. The fuse was blown so I swapped the two wires on the switch and no more blown fuses.

I bought the OEM type lights.....they fit like crap. I spent a ton of time hogging out the holes so I could align to fit the holes in the bumper skin. They have the halo which is good in the dark but not bright enough for daylight. A little disappointed in them but NBD as the wiring is done and I can swap out new lights rather easily.

Hope this helps provide some tips to assist in your next project.

 

[ModDish]

wondering if you have a diagram of the front of the port trac engine, getting ready to do the left front timing chain tennsioner/cassette .

also any info you have on the left front timing chain tennsioner/cassette would be greatly appreciated

(drivers side closest part of the engine to the headlight )

its a 03 v6 sohc 4X4 vin E

 

[ncranchero]

ModDish, you have mail.

 

[cjej1971]

Electrical Issues

There seems to be some kind of electrical problem on my 01 sport trac! The drivers window will not roll down and when the door window switch is pressed there is a "click" coming from under the drivers side dashboard near the steering column. Also the radio and cruise control don't seem to be getting any current. Could these be related? Any help would. Be much appreciated! All the fuses are good!

 

[ncranchero]

The clicking is most likely the "One-touch down" relay. You may have a bad motor. If you remove the door panel and access the motor plug you can disconnect it and use a pair of jumper wires to swap the connection. Then if it rolls down your motor is good.

You'll have 3 fuses that feed the radio. Has the cruise recall been done on your Trac? If not then immediately disconnect the switch on the master cylinder and have it done.

 

[mcspeed]

The clicking is most likely the "One-touch down" relay. You may have a bad motor. If you remove the door panel and access the motor plug you can disconnect it and use a pair of jumper wires to swap the connection. Then if it rolls down your motor is good.

You'll have 3 fuses that feed the radio. Has the cruise recall been done on your Trac? If not then immediately disconnect the switch on the master cylinder and have it done.

Steve,

How can I tell if the Cruise Control recall has been performed on my 01 ST?

As always, thanks for the excellent information!

 

[ncranchero]

Steve,

How can I tell if the Cruise Control recall has been performed on my 01 ST?

As always, thanks for the excellent information!

It will have this harness:

or you can enter your VIN HERE and it will show if it's still open.

 

[mcspeed]

Thanks Steve. I trust you are referring to the harness with the blue label. Looks like it might include an in line fuse.

THANK YOU!!!!

 

[ncranchero]

Yep, that's it and yes it does.

 

[mcspeed]

Outstanding! It's done and thanks again!!!

 

[cjej1971]

Thanks for all this info! So I will try replacing the fusible link and that should be the fix.

 

[Pjibs]

Do you have the stereo wiring diagram? I'm installing a new double din and want to know what the 2 extra harnesses are for and if I need to splice them into the new harness. Thanks!

 

[fonicsmonkey]

Do you have the stereo wiring diagram? I'm installing a new double din and want to know what the 2 extra harnesses are for and if I need to splice them into the new harness. Thanks!

I sent you a PM with the connector pin outs and some other info...one of the other connectors is for your subwoofer/amp. You would need an adapter like Metra 70-5517 to retain your factory sub.....but you'll most likely need to put a 5 volt regulator in line with the Blue/White amp turn on wire coming FROM the new head unit and going TO the amp turn on wire for you OEM subwoofer. If you use the adapter it provides you with a corresponding Blue/White amp turn on wire for the factory sub/amp. The 5 volt regulator would go between those two Blue/White wires.

 

[ncranchero]

Thanks fonicsmonkey, busy day here.