Need advice is this frame cracked?

[Mbrooks420]

You’d be way better off with a V8. The v6s have a specific problem with their timing chain tensioners that’s a few thousand dollars to repair. The motor needs to come out to fix.

 

[Josh P]

I think if the vehicle was selling for half the asking price it would be a decent deal to drive until it needed major work. I'd pass on this explorer

 

[Danicafreak]

I think if the vehicle was selling for half the asking price it would be a decent deal to drive until it needed major work. I'd pass on this explorer

Thanks so much!

 

[J_C]

The rust doesn't look that bad to me, only small scale patches at this point but I'd still take a hammer and screwdriver with me and bang and poke at the frame... some scale will come off but the important thing is that it doesn't make a hole. Also look at the cargo floor pan behind the rear wheels, where road grime is kicked up. Granted that is a lot easier to patch panel repair than the frame. Then there's the rocker panels and doglegs, which requires (some structural support) fabrication and paint in addition to cutting and welding.

There's no way it's going to sell for half the asking price in the current market, unless the seller is desperate for cash or it has an engine or tranny problem. Heh, I'd have to think about it a while before I'd sell my little-bit-rustier '98 for half that. [Edit] Okay I thought about it a while and I wouldn't settle for less than $3K for my '98 in this market. Granted it has a lot of newer parts... but the devil you know is better, or something... [/Edit]. Anything that reliably runs and safely drives is worth $2K+ right now, then consider how expensive new SUVs are... selling for above MSRP in many cases.

 

[07EddyB]

You’d be way better off with a V8. The v6s have a specific problem with their timing chain tensioners that’s a few thousand dollars to repair. The motor needs to come out to fix.

Agreed - which is why I asked. And let's not forget the transmission - at 160K it's either got a rebuilt in it now or it will need one soon from what I've seen on this forum. I'm sure there are exceptions - but dealing with a frame that rusted and then having engine or transmission problems can suck the enthusiasm out quickly.
Not to mention the next brake job or the next wheel bearing job and so on with that much rust.

 

[J_C]

Ultimately we need to know your Long Term Goals. It might have the SOHC with the timing chain issue. It might not.

It might still be a good investment if the engine blows up in a couple years, if the rust isn't too deep. Any way you look at it, there is a certain cost of ownership of an older vehicle and that cost rises if it's an SUV. We can tell you "odds" but it very much depends on the particular specimen of vehicle and what you pictured does not seem unusual for rust in your climate.

As for the crack potential, you really have to go there and check it out yourself and be ready to pass on it. Explorers aren't exactly rare. If it is an older owner who seems financially set, odds are higher they are selling it at good price, but if the seller does not seem so well off, question everything, including why it's being sold. I like to meet people at their residence when possible. How impressive that is, tells you something about their standards. If they don't upkeep the home they live in, how much were they going to upkeep a vehicle they're trying to get rid of besides make it shiny?

 

[Blackhawkxx]

Truck has 160,000 miles so if I got 5 years I’d be happy. Weird that the body has no rust. Maybe it had a body job

My 99 Ranger had a perfect body when the frame broke in two in 2018. I tried everything within reason to stop the frame from rusting but nothing seemed to work. Your frame doesn't look as bad.

 

[Mbrooks420]

How many miles do you drive a year, and how long would it have to last?

 

[Danicafreak]

How many miles do you drive a year, and how long would it have to last?

Less than 15k a year and I need it to last 3 years

 

[boominXplorer]

I'll chime in to this since vehicle resale is up my alley......

Vehicles have had a ridiculous jump in prices lately and they are not going to come back down anytime soon. Automakers are loving the fact they are getting top dollar for their vehicles and having basically a build to order waiting list. That way there are no longer trucks being built that are going to sit on lots, they are getting grabbed up.

With that being said is there any other options in that price range around you? Canada is a whole different market and the amount of cars pulled off the road at an early age up there because of rust is crazy.

If it doesn't leak coolant (check radiator and thermostat housing), have a rattle or ticking at idle (timing chains), shifts into all gears without slipping or wrench light and has working 4x4 then it might be a good deal when compared to what else is available in the area.

You have to have certain thing in Canada that does not come on a US truck as well. Daytime running lights and block heater are 2 things that are needed up there. Then travel to get a US truck, trouble getting it registered ect ect can cost $3k itself not including the purchase of the truck. This truck at $3k up there is compared to buying the same truck in NY state for $1500 or so.

 

[Josh P]

I think more pictures of the underside would help make a decision. My roommate had an 89 F250. It sat in Iowa out in the snow for 1 winter. The frame looked a lot better than that explorer. After we took the bed off, me jumping on a crossmember was enough to break it. The motor rotted from the inside out. Went to change the spark plugs and the heads were so rusted that chunks of the head came out attached to the spark plugs. When something rusts from the inside out, it doesn't look bad until its too late to do anything about it.

 

[Bipeman]

The Ford 4.0 V6 is a good engine BUT-- The timing chains, timing chain cassettes, fail without fail. At 160K they are likely ready to be replaced which requires removal of the engine and removal of a large amount funds from your bank account unless you can do it yourself. I have 206K, very well maintained, and mine is ready for this job. Many go much earlier. Guessing $2K US to have it done. Will do it myself in the spring.

 

[G Willis]

Suggestion?

Don’t purchase.

 

[G Willis]

Don’t purchase.

I have a 91 Explorer Sport that has no where near that much rust. Since I live in Arkansas, we do not use a lot of salt on the roads.

 

[laker82]

I’d plan on a dirty gritty weekend when it gets warm. I’d use a heavy wire wheel and a flap disk and break all of the scale loose, and then I’d use a quality rust converter to slow down the rust that’s going on. If you did a decent rust conversion and used a quality top coat you could make that rusty frame last the rest of its functional life.

Before buying I’d have an extra look at the body mounts.

I’d also make sure I understood the risks with the SOHC motors (if it is indeed the 4.0 V6).

I would not worry about the rust you see. When the frame fails it will be from the inside out. Do not touch it without a little tapping with a hammer. The first place mine gave out was a rear A frame. The running boards and their mounts are another early death.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I would not worry about the rust you see. When the frame fails it will be from the inside out. Do not touch it without a little tapping with a hammer. The first place mine gave out was a rear A frame. The running boards and their mounts are another early death.

Unless it’s a box frame and not a C channel it’s not going to rust from the “inside”. Rust isn’t magic. It will always start from something exposed. There’s plenty of visible rust to be concerned with.

 

[Banjoman47]

You say no rust in the body. Yet, the frame looks like that? I bought an '08 Sport Trac (same vehicle) from the VA/WVA border. The frame has a lot of rust but not as bad as you. It only had 53,000 on it 3 years ago when I bought it. The rocker panels were rusted out in a few places. Especially at the rear corners of the cab. I knew it but it was a one-owner and was otherwise spotless including the interior. So I knew I wanted to keep it long-term. Cost me $4k to have a complete resto of the rockers. Expensive but the shop is a good one. If the rockers in that
08 doesn't have rust, I'll be AMAZED! Especially a Canada truck. Good luck!

 

[JSM0320]

Excellent! I love getting dirty! What topcoat on a rust converter should be used? Also since it is a v6 I thought fords v6s were pretty stout.

The v6s are extremely Stout and reliable engines if it has no chain clatter the oil looks good and the thermostat housing is not leaking keep your routine maintenance up and it will last. I personally own three of the overhead cam V6 explorers and they have never let me down.

 

[Josh P]

Unless it’s a box frame and not a C channel it’s not going to rust from the “inside”. Rust isn’t magic. It will always start from something exposed. There’s plenty of visible rust to be concerned with.

Rust isn't magic but there are times it can form without you obviously seeing it. My friend had a 67 GMC C10 that the roof rusted out without a chip or rust blister in the paint anywhere. Condensation would form between the metal headliner and roof overnight. It took a long time to eat through.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Rust isn't magic but there are times it can form without you obviously seeing it. My friend had a 67 GMC C10 that the roof rusted out without a chip or rust blister in the paint anywhere. Condensation would form between the metal headliner and roof overnight. It took a long time to eat through.

Yes. It rusted from the outside of the roofs underside. Just like your rockers can rust where you can’t see. On a c channel frame there is no inside.