Need experts on OLD trucks - 88 Ranger

[traveler]

I just picked up a 1988 Ranger XLT extended cab. straight body, clean interior, good tires.... runs like... well... bad words. LOL

I got it home finally and opened the hood. The seller said it didn't idle right. It sounded fine at idle to me (still does) But.. it won't go down the highway worth C%&P. Runs OK at WOT, but won't run and hold speed. runs rough, no power, etc. There is a transmission issue to, but I want to get it running first. hard to diagnose a transmission when the engine driving it won't cooperate.

I did some checking, and the EGR valve is no even attached to the manifold. It has a block off plate there instead. Also PCV valve is loose and doesn't want to stay in the valve cover.

Yes, I know. should have seen all this before handing over cash but I didn't. Now I have to try and work with what I've got. Any ideas?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

what motor?

 

[traveler]

LoL oh yea... Sorry.
It's a 2.9 V6. Automatic. It's actually equipped nicely. Power Windows, locks, cruise, factory am/fom cassette...

Would be great for a 5.0 swap. If someone had the time and money.

 

[Josh P]

88 up 2.9L does not have egr. Does it run better when cold? I have a 1987 ranger with a 2.9L.

 

[traveler]

LoL yea I did read up on the 88 and discovered it came with no EGR valve. This one has the tube running up from the manifold and the EGR valve on the end it. But the EGR valve is not attached to anything. It had a salvage motor put in it in November and I think they may have used a year other than an 88.
And yes, actually it does run better before it warms up. I'd love some help with it. If I can't diagnose it I'll have to take it to a shop and have them give me a diagnosis.
Oh yea, as long as folks are reading this. Something I've never run into before, the power Windows work fine as long as the drivers door is open. Close the door and they don't work. But the priority is of course getting it running.

 

[Josh P]

Tfi module is heat sensitive and when it fails the engine runs like crap when warm. I'd remove the spout connector and drive around the block with the engine warm.

 

[traveler]

Ok thanks, but my brain isn't functioning well now. LoL what is TFI? And where is the spout connector?

 

[Josh P]

On my 87 the tfi module is on the distributor. The spout connector is a little gray plug over the passenger valve cover. When you unplug it the engine will only run on the base timing with no advance.

 

[traveler]

Ok, located the TFI module. Really hope I don't have to replace that... Hard to see Let alone get to.
There are a few gray plugs over the passenger valve cover. Can you point out the one you are referring to?
Also thought I'd throw in a pic of the unused EGR valve just for kicks

 

[traveler]

Don't know why the EGR pic didn't load the first time.. oh well.
I'd love to get rid of it, but its on there tight. Can't get a wrench in there that fits and will give me enough torque to break the nut loose.
I think they used the entire salvage engine, including the exhaust manifolds. Normally not an issue but if the engine they used is an 87 that included the EGR valve.... you see where I'm goin with this.

 

[Josh P]

 

[Josh P]

On my 87 that connector is buried over #2 cylinder. I don't know if it was moved in 88 or not. Later ford's like my aerostar it is on the driver side fender next to the eec test port. The 86-87 2.9 had a larger tb, the 4.0l exhaust manifolds or headers fit the 2.9 and would be a cheap way to lose the egr tube.

 

[traveler]

Thanks for the useful info. I went ahead and unplugged the most likely grey plug (visible in the lower center of the first pic) I see now you were referring to a different plug. Anyway, it did run smoother when warm though with less power and a CEL. I'll do a more thorough search for the plug you are referring to and check again.
I'll look into the 4.0 headers though I don't want to put a lot of money in this thing.

 

[traveler]

This is the closest thing to what you described and your pic. I'll try it and see what results I get. Again thanks.

 

[Josh P]

Yes that is it. I think you will be replacing the TFI module.

 

[traveler]

Well, I pulled the plug pictured and it still ran like c#&p when warm. Don't know what to do now, but will keep studying on it.
If it is the TFI module, what's the easiest way back there? It almost looks like I'll have to pull the upper intake.

 

[Josh P]

Well, I pulled the plug pictured and it still ran like c#&p when warm. Don't know what to do now, but will keep studying on it.
If it is the TFI module, what's the easiest way back there? It almost looks like I'll have to pull the upper intake.

Rule out the other sensors before you replace the TFI module, it should have done the same thing as the other gray plug you disconnected. Coolant temp, map and O2 sensors are what the ecm monitors for closed loop. Thinking about it, the O2 sensor wiring is routed next to the bellhousing and can get pinched real easy between the engine and transmission. I had that happen once. Map sensor measures engine vacuum so check for a vacuum leak, it is mounted on the firewall next to the intake. I think the gray plug you disconnected was the coolant temp sensor for the ecm, it sees the engine getting warm enough to go to closed loop so I doubt it failed.

 

[traveler]

Ok, Thanks, I'll work on those today. Guess I should look at this as educational. I learned when I was young about carburetor cars, and I learned about OBDII cars by working on the Tbird. But never learned about what was in between!

 

[Josh P]

Ok, Thanks, I'll work on those today. Guess I should look at this as educational. I learned when I was young about carburetor cars, and I learned about OBDII cars by working on the Tbird. But never learned about what was in between!

Every problem has the same symptom is what I've learned.

 

[traveler]

I took it to a local shop I trust. It didn't take him long to diagnose a bad O2 Sensor. The connecting plug had laid against the exhaust pipe and melted so I need to replace the connector, and probably the sensor. I went to the salvage yard and collected a couple connectors and one plug. Got home and discovered that I had purchsed 4 wire plugs and connectors, and the Ranger uses the 3 wire type. I don't think they are interchangeable. Back to the yard I go! (the stuff I got there before only set me back 3 bucks, so no harm really except time.)