Need Help Please! 4.0 SOHC Upper Intake Removal....

[Katmandu]

I'm in the middle of doing the 00M12.

According to MikeH's excellent write up....

HERE

7. Remove the upper intake mainfold screws using your #30 torx driver. These are a serious PITA. They will be hard to remove all the way out and they are really long. I forget how many screw there are maybe 8? But they are hard to find so make sure you get them all.

...there "should" be (8) Upper Intake screws to remove.

I'm having difficulty in locating all the Upper Intake screws. I have (6) out already. The (3) up front/rear that are in a triangled pattern.

Where are the other (2) Screws ???


TIA!

ERIC

 

[IZwack]

the two other torx bolts are located in the middle..

one is siting under the IAC valve which u really should remove so you have easier access to the bolt.. the other sits under something else too but i forget what.

i dont have an image of both upper plastic halves mounted on.. but here is an image of what you should see after you've removed the upper half.. u can see where those two bolts attach to (red arrows)

may i ask what the 00M12 is? (what is changed)


.

 

[Katmandu]

may i ask what the 00M12 is? (what is changed)

The 00M12 is a Recall that replaces the Cam Chain Tensioner, the upper/lower intake circle-type gaskets and installs and oil restrictor plug type device near the cam tensioner.

What usually happens is that the one of the lower intake gaskets starts leaking and the truck will NOT idle properly (if at all) when the engine is COLD. The Cam chain tensioner is also known to be weak and will let the timing chain rattle. Some folks are suggesting that the Cam Tensioner be considered a "WEAR" item and be routinely replaced at occasionally.

Here's a pic of the parts included in the kit. You can buy this kit for around $50 from the dealer. Ask for the 00M12 "KIT".

 

[Katmandu]

Oh yea! I finally found those (2) screws! All I had to do was take a break and have a Beer Or Three and go back out and look again!

 

[IZwack]

ah interesting, well this might be something i need to look into before the cold months come

 

[CDW6212R]

Glad you found them. How much room is there to access the rear tensioner? Of my two, the front was acceptable, and the rear tensioner was bad. I have no body on the chassis, so I don't know if that rear tensioner is accessable. Regards,

 

[Katmandu]

Glad you found them. How much room is there to access the rear tensioner?

Forgot to even look for it. I was to involved with replacing the front tensioner.

Pretty straight forward job. REAL learning curve doing it for the first time.

I highly recommend anyone doing the 00M12 themselves to STUDY MikeH's write up thoroughly. Pay particular attention to the vacuum lines and the wiring harness/sensor locations.

The only REAL and I mean REAL PITA during all of this is removing the rear upper intake bolts. The firewall and some vacuum lines are in the way.

Get a GOOD set of tools before you attempt this also!

BTW, I should mention, my repair was a sucess! No more rattling on startup and the 2-3k RPM rattle is also gone!

 

[CaptKirk]

Can you do just the tensioners and not the intake gaskets from the outside w/o tearing it all a part?

 

[Katmandu]

Can you do just the tensioners and not the intake gaskets from the outside w/o tearing it all a part?

Unfortunately no. The chain tensioner itself is obstructed by the intake manifold. There is no way to access it until the intake is removed.

Also, the coolant sensor needs to be removed to access the chain tensioner. It sits practically right up against the chain tensioner

 

[CaptKirk]

Thanks. I thought it wouldn't be that easy.