Need help with A/C repair on '97 XLT

[fetterjohn]

I know that the clutch on my A/C is bad (A/C will turn on...then off. If I downshift and the RPM's go up, it will reengage the A/C). So I bought a new clutch for the A/C...now it's time to replace it.

Can anyone help with brief yet step-by-step instructions of what to do to change the clutch? I can see the power steering resevoir on top of the condenser. I know I need to remove the belt...but what else. I'm kind of an idiot if I don't have a guide for this kind of thing...but I can do it!

Chilton's was no help and neither was an internet search. Some help would be very much appreciated...planning on starting this in the morning (5/11/07).

Thank you all in advanced.

-John

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Have you checked to see if the compressor is seized? If it is then you'll just burn up your new clutch trying to use it. If you can't do it right away you can bypass the compressor using a shorter belt I'd have to look for the belt number really quick though.

 

[David in NC]

I'm glad to know you can bypass the compressor with a shorter belt. I had two ac compressors seize on two different GM wagons and got stranded both times. In the old days of having several v-belts you could cut the ac belt and drive home.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I'm glad to know you can bypass the compressor with a shorter belt. I had two ac compressors seize on two different GM wagons and got stranded both times. In the old days of having several v-belts you could cut the ac belt and drive home.

Here is the thread about when I had to do it. Someone else added some info about the 4.0.

 

[shamaal]

I just found this the other day, it's from all data which I'm to cheap to buy a subscription for. The Mustang compressor looks like the FS10 used on the Explorers. The tough part is holding the clutch while removing the attachment bolt, that's what the special tool is for; you may be able to jury rig something. Or you may be able to energize the clutch by jumpering the pressure switch at the accumulator; engine off of course.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl168i.htm

Of course, clutches do go bad but the compressor itself is usually replaced and not just the clutch.

You didn't ask, but during normal operation the compressor will kick in and out depending on a number of factors. The pressure switch mentioned earlier, controls the engagement. Rapid cycling of the clutch is usually a sign of low refrigerant and indicates a need for a charge. Theree have been two bad clutches in this forum in the year I've been here. Usually the problem is a low charge and occasionally the pressure switch, that doesn't count leaks of course.

This post may get moved to the Heating and AC subforum which has a lot of stickies pertaining to air conditioning. Good Luck.

 

[mrboyle]

^ What he said! From your description, it sounds to me like your clutch is working fine! When a clutch fails it either won't engage or disengage at all. Your description sounds like your system is low on freon. Before you waste the time to replace the clutch do yourself a favor and have the system looked at to see if the pressure levels are correct.

If you do need a clutch, you will need not only the holding tool mentioned in the above post, but you will need snap ring pliers and a special puller to get the clutch magnet off the old compressor. Once the new clutch is installed is is necessary to set the air gap on the clutch spring in order for it to opperate properly.