Need help with my 2010 XLT

[khaley]

Hello all. I have a 2010 XLT 4.0. I went to start it the other day and it would not start. No prior issues or warnings or anything. We tried jumping it, still nothing. I’ve checked fuses, relays, etc. A ton of people told me it was the starter, and if it wasn’t that then it was the neutral safety switch. It was neither of those because I’ve replaced both and it still won’t start. I’ve tried starting in neutral. I have power to lights, radio, windows, etc. But no dash lights. My boyfriend thinks it’s the instrument cluster, while my dad thinks it’s in theft mode. Has anyone experienced this? I need all of the advice. When I turn the key to crank it, you can hear one little click, and that’s it. Battery is fine, alternator is fine.

 

[07EddyB]

When you say the battery and the alternator are fine - what are you basing that on?
95% of the time when I have those symptoms I need a new battery.

 

[khaley]

When you say the battery and the alternator are fine - what are you basing that on?
95% of the time when I have those symptoms I need a new battery.

I say they are fine because it has been 5 days now and the battery is still working.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I say they are fine because it has been 5 days now and the battery is still working.

when was the battery replaced? that click you hear sure sounds like the starter solinoid clicking and that is a classic sign of a dead battery or corosion in the battery connections. as you tried jumping it i would lean on corosion. start by turning on your headlights and trying to start the vehicle if the headlights dim alot or go dark its most likely the battery. Then check for corosion at both the positive and negitive side of the battery. then follow the wires and see if there is corosion on any of the connection points. if no corosion is found its the battery.
The vehicle will not even try to start or even click (if that click actually is the starter solinoid) if the theft system is causing the issue. on the top of the dash there is a red light is it flashing steady or off? this is part of the pats system aka the anti theft system. lasty just to verify you did check both fuse boxes right?

If you do or do not find anything come on back with what you checked and tried and the results.

 

[khaley]

when was the battery replaced? that click you hear sure sounds like the starter solinoid clicking and that is a classic sign of a dead battery or corosion in the battery connections. as you tried jumping it i would lean on corosion. start by turning on your headlights and trying to start the vehicle if the headlights dim alot or go dark its most likely the battery. Then check for corosion at both the positive and negitive side of the battery. then follow the wires and see if there is corosion on any of the connection points. if no corosion is found its the battery.
The vehicle will not even try to start or even click (if that click actually is the starter solinoid) if the theft system is causing the issue. on the top of the dash there is a red light is it flashing steady or off? this is part of the pats system aka the anti theft system. lasty just to verify you did check both fuse boxes right?

If you do or do not find anything come on back with what you checked and tried and the results.

The battery was replaced about a year and a half ago. The connectors did have a little corrosion, but it was cleaned off. The headlights do not dim or anything. And there is no blinking light at all. I’ve checked all of the fuses, interior and exterior.

 

[ThunderbirdSport]

I would say check and clean the battery cable ends as a first step. If still won't turn the engine over, put a known good battery in.

And never ever run it without a battery, at all. (will ruin the voltage regulator in the alternator)

Keep us updated..

 

[khaley]

I would say check and clean the battery cable ends as a first step. If still won't turn the engine over, put a known good battery in.

And never ever run it without a battery, at all. (will ruin the voltage regulator in the alternator)

Keep us updated..

It has a newer battery. Was just replaced about a year and a half ago. We cleaned the connectors, they were a little corroded

 

[Rcflyer330]

ok the click is not he starter then.

This is the light I was talking about.
you checked both fuse boxes right? figuring why the dash is dead is what you need to focus on and why I am making sure both fuse boxes were checked.

 

[khaley]

ok the click is not he starter then. View attachment 442620

This is the light I was talking about.
you checked both fuse boxes right? figuring why the dash is dead is what you need to focus on and why I am making sure both fuse boxes were checked.

I checked the fuses inside the cab. And I checked so many under the hood. But which one do I need to check under the hood specifically? I have a test light

 

[Cat123]

Hello all. I have a 2010 XLT 4.0. I went to start it the other day and it would not start. No prior issues or warnings or anything. We tried jumping it, still nothing. I’ve checked fuses, relays, etc. A ton of people told me it was the starter, and if it wasn’t that then it was the neutral safety switch. It was neither of those because I’ve replaced both and it still won’t start. I’ve tried starting in neutral. I have power to lights, radio, windows, etc. But no dash lights. My boyfriend thinks it’s the instrument cluster, while my dad thinks it’s in theft mode. Has anyone experienced this? I need all of the advice. When I turn the key to crank it, you can hear one little click, and that’s it. Battery is fine, alternator is fine.

Wow! That's weird isn't it. Just a thought could it be the ignition itself?

 

[khaley]

Wow! That's weird isn't it. Just a thought could it be the ignition itself?

I have power to the ignition, I tested that with the test light! I am absolutely dumbfounded here

 

[Rcflyer330]

fuse 8 in the inside the footwell and fuse 24 in the engine bay.

 

[khaley]

fuse 8 in the inside the footwell and fuse 24 in the engine bay.

Both fuses are working

 

[khaley]

when was the battery replaced? that click you hear sure sounds like the starter solinoid clicking and that is a classic sign of a dead battery or corosion in the battery connections. as you tried jumping it i would lean on corosion. start by turning on your headlights and trying to start the vehicle if the headlights dim alot or go dark its most likely the battery. Then check for corosion at both the positive and negitive side of the battery. then follow the wires and see if there is corosion on any of the connection points. if no corosion is found its the battery.
The vehicle will not even try to start or even click (if that click actually is the starter solinoid) if the theft system is causing the issue. on the top of the dash there is a red light is it flashing steady or off? this is part of the pats system aka the anti theft system. lasty just to verify you did check both fuse boxes right?

If you do or do not find anything come on back with what you checked and tried and the results.

 

[Cat123]

Hello all. I have a 2010 XLT 4.0. I went to start it the other day and it would not start. No prior issues or warnings or anything. We tried jumping it, still nothing. I’ve checked fuses, relays, etc. A ton of people told me it was the starter, and if it wasn’t that then it was the neutral safety switch. It was neither of those because I’ve replaced both and it still won’t start. I’ve tried starting in neutral. I have power to lights, radio, windows, etc. But no dash lights. My boyfriend thinks it’s the instrument cluster, while my dad thinks it’s in theft mode. Has anyone experienced this? I need all of the advice. When I turn the key to crank it, you can hear one little click, and that’s it. Battery is fine, alternator is fine.

I'm fascinated by this problem and even googled it. Just watched a fascinating video on YouTube. It was on a different vehicle but he did some of the things you have checked. The last thing he did was to see if the engine would turn over. It wouldn't, unfortunately the engine had seized. I doubt this is your problem but worth looking at seeing as you've ruled out almost everything else

 

[Cat123]

Oh, I forgot to say the guy in the video hit the solenoid with a hammer a few times. He said that sometimes works. Good luck!

 

[Rcflyer330]

ok that is a bummer was hoping it was one of thoes fuses. I think you are going to need a obd2 scanner that can read all the modules in the vehicle to check for codes. I highly recommend a obdlink mx+ and either the app the comes with it and/or forscan (forscan.org) with forscan you can buy a cheaper adapter and they list them on the website. I use forscan all the time but i do know some people will not use it because it is developed in russia.

I am going to say its looking more and more like the instrument cluster. but to say definately you need a wiring diagram and pinout of the connector and need to test for power and ground at the cluster. If you do remove the cluster I would try and test for power and ground without unplugging it because i dont know if there would be a programming issue if you unplug it. I do not have a wiring diagram but i know alldata.com will have it.
Here are some other threads with the same/ similar issues and some things for you to try and or check.

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www.explorerforum.com

 

[Josh P]

The problem is the instrument cluster. It stores the information about the keys.

 

[khaley]

The problem is the instrument cluster. It stores the information about the keys.

Do I need to send it in? I checked the fuses and they are good.

 

[Josh P]

I can't find a wiring diagram for a 2010. If power and ground is good at the cluster connector, then the cluster itself died. The replacement cluster will need to be configured and the keys programmed for the new cluster. I helped a coworker years ago with this exact issue with a 2006 explorer.