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Ignition switch is another variable in the circuit, just thinking out loud as to not overlook the small stuff.

What bugs me is it failed after you sold it. Forgive my mistrust in people I do not know, but it almost seems like they swapped a part out to get their truck at home running, then asked for a refund from you.

I know light bulbs burn out right after buying a house, but this is weird-
 






I know what you are saying but I do not think it is the case.. He was driving and she following.. She was back to the house with in 5 minutes of there leaving.. Other thing is he was older (as I am) and not it good condition... and one more.. As far as he was concerned it was his deal. because it was as is.. I am one that said that I would get it running or give his money back.. we agreed on 5 days to fix it.. So if anybody screwed anybody around it was me screwing myself .. LOL.. small community reputation is everything.. even though buyer is from a different town 25 miles away..
 






My life as car buyer is weird.. I have a 97 Taurus that the day after I bought it the started went out... I bought a cherry 92 Silverado with just at 90,000 miles on it 2 years ago and went to pack up my late mom's stuff and lost the radiator again 2 days after i bought it.. and abought 3 months ago I bought a 2000 caravan with 70,000miles on it and on the 90 mile drive home the water pressure pegged cold.. scared the bejesus out of me but it was just the thermostat.. LOL..
 






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would like to see the rest of that.. Thanks
 






would like to see the rest of that.. Thanks
 












94 Explorer engine controls 1of 2 2 of 2 above
 

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Do not know what that is for but it is close enough to give me some checks.. Getting real eye tired of using a magnifying glass to try and figure it out.. Thank You..

OOPS see it says 1994 Explore.. well that is the 3rd different one for 94 explore i have found and none show an inertia switch which mine has..
 






inertia switch seldom go bad. Not much in the manual about it .PDF file below
I had the same problem as you,(quite running suddenly )
Found out the DPFE module had shorted out inside, killed all 5 volt power from the computer.
Quick fix was to unplug the DPFE and of course it turned the check light on, but it ran.
 

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sorry .. i was not clear.. I have found and tested the inertia switch.. What i was saying is of the 3 different wiring diagrams I have for a 1994 ford explorer none show it as having a inertia switch... not a big deal since i know it does have but makes me wonder what other differences there might be.. !993 and 1995 wiring diagrams do show Inertia switches..

My main focus right now it trying to figure out why I show battery+ at the Relay connectors.. as described above.. post #17

thanks for the help.. I need a lot of it..
 






Ok yes, the issue is under the hood. Unless the fuel pump itself is shorted. Try the relay lug power probe check again, but this time unplug the wiring to the inertia switch to eliminate the pump from the circuit.
So sorry I miss getting back to some helps.. The tests such as post #17 were done with inertia switch disconnected....
 






one other thing you might check two wire 10 guage wire by the battery is the computer ground goes straight to the negative batt terminal
roscoe
 






Ok .. will take a look there.. .. Right now I am thinking there is a big melting of wires somewhere. or a bad PCM..

My readings in the power distribution box just are not right.. To just go with the Fuel pump relay to stay simple.. with the relay it self setting in the house on the table.. Key OFF... socket for relay pin 30 has Battery+ voltage... socket for relay pin 87 has ground signal...sockets for pins 85 and 86 have no reading either way.
Key ON run.. sockets for relay pins 30..85, and 86 have full batter+ and 97 checks ok for ground signal.... pins 85 0r86 with relay not install should not have a signal.
one other thing you might check two wire 10 guage wire by the battery is the computer ground goes straight to the negative batt terminal
roscoe
I am not sure i am following that.. The battery is factory wired with no adds or deletes... it has on negative One large wire going to the engine or frame.. .. It has 2 ten gauge wires.. One that goes over to fender and bolts on there.. and one that is dead ended with a cover guard on it.. i did look to see if there was possibly something it hooked to and came loose but did not find anything and it looks dirty like it has not been used.. .. I will check more into that..It is only about 10 inches long so whatever it might have hooked to has to be right there.
 






one other thing you might check two wire 10 guage wire by the battery is the computer ground goes straight to the negative batt terminal
roscoe
wow.. Big Apologize.. It was bothering me on that one wire.. I was looking to far even for a 10 inch wire.. It was right there at the base of the battery under the other wires.. a connector.. plugged it in.. put all the relays in.. hit the key.. took a bit to get the fuel up but it runs... HOWEVER.. it is not running very good.. hope a test drive will even that out.. GREAT BIG THANK YOU >>
 






Took it for a 20 mile drive and seems to have evened everything out except a little lop on idle that is new..

i cannot thank everybody enough for there time and help..
 






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