Need some help picking a K N air filter | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need some help picking a K N air filter

ccrain

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Well, I just got my first car (im 16). A 1999 Ford explorer with the 5.0 (I prefer the 5.0 after reading some 4.0 had timing chain issues, plus the 5.0 is bullet proof). We have owned the car about 6 years. It was my moms but then she got a 05 sport trac . I am looking into a K and N filter but need some advice, get the drop in like this

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=33-2106-1


Or the this universal one like this '

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Filter-...rd|Model:Explorer&hash=item5648884b29&vxp=mtr


I am looking for more HP, just nothing that will hurt the gas mileage as it is already. Which one will give horsepower and boost MPG most . The car currently has 173000 and still going strong. Recently put brakes, egr valve, plugs , plug wires and new fuel filter, but hey ever car needs these things at some point. Only thing we have ever had to do to the car is a radiator hose once and ball joints. I LOVE working on cars, I plan to pursue becoming ASE certified. All i think about at school is getting home to work on something. I am a real picky guy, changing oil every 3000 and every other fluid is changed when needed.
 



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just curious , any MPG increase, or HP increase. I might go with this filter since no oil. Thanks a lot
 






You're really not gonna get much power just from an air filter, if any at all. MPG is debatable. I've got a K&N drop-in in my truck mostly because I got tired of changing paper filters. I did like the fact that it said it would give more power, but an air filter alone isn't gonna make much difference, at least not noticeable at all.

However, not only does a washable filter save you money over time, but I heard its overall better for your engine. I don't know squat about the filter listed in the link, but I do recommend K&N filters to people, just not for power or mpg or anything.
 






Don't count on either. The stock air box flows very well, and is an excellent design.
I considered the paper Amsoil EAA 122 panel but the AFE's synthetic media sold me.
 






However, not only does a washable filter save you money over time, but I heard its overall better for your engine.

Nope, they don't filter as good and are therefore worse for your engine. Plus, as you already stated, they won't give any improvement. The stock air box and filter already flow more air than most parts of your induction system. The air filter, more air than your air box and intake tube. You can even test them on a flow bench. The pressure drop between an empty air box and tube is almost exactly the same as the pressure drop when you have a good quality OEM paper filter in.

anyway, link to testing filters

If you absolutely have to go to a washable filter, go with the Amsoil one. It filters better than the K&N, though not as good as an OEM style paper filter.

Also... I've never understood the statement that it somehow saves work by getting a re-useable air filter. You have to open the air box and pull out the filter, wash it, and put it back in. With a paper filter you are doing one less step... unless you count opening the box they come in. You don't save money very fast either... It will take you 6 years at least before you have spent as much on paper filters as you would a washable filter like a K&N if you replace your air filter yearly. And if you live somewhere that is dirty enough you need to replace it more often, then you definitely don't want a "high flow" air filter allowing more dirt in your engine.

Remember, high flow means less media blocking crap that is in the air. When I buy an air filter, I like it to filter the air... Not just be there for it to pass through.

By the way... even if the air filter did represent a bottleneck that hindered air flow, there is a much bigger one down the line called the butterfly plate in the throttle. Unless it is wide open, it is restricting air flow, and your stock air filter can still flow plenty of air when it is wide open, so I wouldn't worry about it.

That's one of the great things about newer direct injection engines. No need for a throttle butterfly. They just control the air fuel ratio with the injectors and intake valve timing. That seriously reduces the pumping losses of the engine to eliminate the throttle butterfly... but they still use the same size air filters as always, despite the fact that they could really fit bigger ones if they wanted... Doesn't that tell you guys something? These engineers didn't see any reason to increase the size of the filter while doing all these other things to increase engine efficiency and reduce pumping losses.
 






my '01 xlt came with a K&N air filter. it was dirty so i replaced it with a paper one. when i got my '01 5.0 EB it needed a new filter too, so i cleaned the K&N, oiled it and put it in. i've experienced no difference in mileage or power whatsoever. i wouldn't spend $75 on one (and cleaning and oiling it is a PITA).
 






i wouldn't spend $75 on one (and cleaning and oiling it is a PITA).
In all fairness to K&N and many other aftermarket "performance" air filters:
#4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.
http://www.google.com/url?url=http:...a=X&ei=Vk8HUaavDYquigLdz4DgCw&ved=0CEAQygQwAA
 






What FIND said.

Plus, oiled filters have been known to contaminate the MAF sensor causing all sorts of problems.
 






Plus, oiled filters have been known to contaminate the MAF sensor causing all sorts of problems.
Now about cleaning. You would THINK that they'd get pretty dirty being in the airflow (think about your furnace filter for example) yet they rarely need attention, why? Well a little known fact is that on engine shut down a circuit heats those little platinum elements to about 1000 degrees...CENTIGRADE!... burning off any contaminants. So, if yours is dirty, you may have lost that function... never say never but these rarely need to be a source of worry cleaning wise. There are plenty of stories where cleaning the MAF improved an idle, but ME ? I have to wonder if the self cleaning cycle was working correctly. I'm not guessing cleaning the MAF needs to be high on your Saturday automotive "to do" preventative maintenance list.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154711
 






I have one of those cone filters with an intake adapter on my 4.0 OHV - I assume a similar setup could be had with the 5.0. Adapter is cheap on eBay, like $15 shipped.

The gains are not measurable, but it sounds great.
 






I planned, and still plan on buying a K&N Filter for my 5.0L, This is because I change my Air Filter every other oil change, I know that's a little frequent, but what ever, I also clean MAF sensor EVERY oil change, it takes not to long considering I do it while the oil is draining. I already expect that it will not really change anything, but I am really having bad luck with build quality on paper air filters.

ALSO, the BEST "cold air" intake is the factory ones, aftermarket ones are just junk, and suck in more hot air then anything. the Explorer pretty much has a cold air one anyway, just get a drop in filter, and you should be good to go.
 






I got the Spectre filter, been happy with it. While it may not give a big increase in power, I like to think that gave me some. It has to have reduced the vaccum between the filter and throttle body right?
I also drive down a lot of dirt roads, and living in the country. The paved roads aren't the cleanest. Filter gets cleaned every 10,000 miles and should probably be done sooner. Paper gets expensive fast.
To the OP, don't get one just to say you have a cold air intake. I know it sounds cool when you're 16, but in a year or 2 it makes you sound like a dumb a$$
 






That's one of the great things about newer direct injection engines. No need for a throttle butterfly. They just control the air fuel ratio with the injectors and intake valve timing. That seriously reduces the pumping losses of the engine to eliminate the throttle butterfly... but they still use the same size air filters as always, despite the fact that they could really fit bigger ones if they wanted... Doesn't that tell you guys something? These engineers didn't see any reason to increase the size of the filter while doing all these other things to increase engine efficiency and reduce pumping losses.

Are you sure FIND?

How is vacuum created in the intake manifold for the EGR system to work properly?
 






I'm not saying your wrong either, just curious.
 






Are you sure FIND?

How is vacuum created in the intake manifold for the EGR system to work properly?

Sorry no, I misspoke. I was thinking diesel when I typed that. GDI still use the throttle body to create vacuum, as do some of the more modern diesels that have emissions equipment.

What I should have said was that the throttle butterfly was not used to regulate engine RPM.

They also use vacuum pumps to generate vacuum under boost. In other words, if they so chose, they could still eliminate the throttle entirely...
 






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