New 2008 Limited project truck

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Just took delivery of a BBK-1759 80mm throttle body, which I plan to install this weekend.

I also received the remainder of the parts to complete the rear door speakers, and install a new double din GPS enabled Pioneer headunit. Additionally, I have an SCT X4 programmer, that is awaiting 3 custom tuning files to be installed from Brenspeed. Will update once installed.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

I installed the 91 octane tune from Brenspeed earlier this week. I decided to wait a few days before installing the throttle body, so that I could accurately assess the impact of both individual mods. The tune definitely woke up the truck, extra low end power, and accelerating while at speed were both improved. If you've never tuned before, I'd recommend making sure your battery is connected to a charger during the process, as it took about 25 minutes for the device to save the stock file, and load the update. If you live in a cold winter climate like I do, I believe this extra precaution to be even more important since batteries can be known to discharge more quickly during cold weather.

Before installing the throttle body earlier this evening, I used the extra gauge and engine parameter feature of the tuner to take a throttle position sensor measurement at idle. In case the set screw for the resting position of the throttle blade on the new BBK unit was set differently at the factory, I wanted to take a baseline measurement of the stock unit. See below for the reading on the SCT X4 for reference:

Once you remove the factory throttle body, a very quick procedure after removing the intake elbow, a few connectors and the egr tube?(correct me if wrong), 4 x 7mm bolts, you've exposed the mounting surface and gasket on the intake manifold. This gasket is reused. There are two plastic tabs or "fingers", at the bottom of this mounting surface. The BBK throttle body requires these be removed. I used a small keyhole hacksaw to do so and cleaned it up with a small file. Be careful not to cut any radiator hoses, wiring, or harnesses as you do this. See below for a picture of the mounting surface, I'm pointing at one plastic tab that needs to be removed, and the other has been cut off already:

The BBK throttle body does not reuse the original 7mm bolts, but comes with 5mm allen key bolts as replacement. Comparing the two, the inner diameter of the BBK (left) is noticeably larger, and without the "bottleneck" taper like the stock one (right) has at the rear near the throttle plate:

Transfer the electric servo motor and throttle position sensor from the stock unit (7 x T20 bolts) to the BBK, and it bolts up quickly to the manifold. I didn't take a photo of it installed because it's fairly cold out and I wanted to get the job done. The truck started up right away, and I took another measurement with the SCT tuner to check the throttle position sensor reading. It was within the same range as the original measurement, so I was satisfied that the idle adjustment set screw didn't need to be touched.

Going for a drive, I noticed a changed induction noise and better throttle response and low end. It creates a mild "whoosh" sound at part or wide open throttle, kind of like a blow-off valve except at a volume of 2 instead of 10. I think if you're trying to get maximum performance out of your 4.6L V8, all these little things can have a nice synergy effect. The intake and throttle body seem to work well with each other, and all have complemented the Brenspeed tune so far. While these two mods were a little more on the expensive side than an intake kit, I believe they're worth the money. I think having trouble code scanning, tuning, and extra gauge reading capability is a good benefit for enthusiasts.

 

[zerodevil]

Thanks for the update on the Brenspeed tune and the BBK, I've been wanting to throw down on these mods for awhile, but wanted to get concrete proof that the BBK in particular works.

Solid build so far my guy. Easily one of the nicest 4th gens here.

Amerihood when!?

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Thanks for the update on the Brenspeed tune and the BBK, I've been wanting to throw down on these mods for awhile, but wanted to get concrete proof that thr BBK in particular works.

Solid build so far my guy. Easily one of the nicest 4th gens here.

Amerihood when!?

Hey thanks man, appreciate the kind words. The BBK was definitely worth it, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Next on the list of parts I’d like is definitely the Magnaflow cat-back exhaust kit. I’ll need to do a full brake pad and rotor job this spring/summer, at which point I’ll probably also source the BTF UCA’s. I also need to determine if the Steeda mustang 4.6L underdrive pulley set will work, I know some Sport Trac Adrenalin guys have used the same set on their builds. I’ll eventually remove the clutch driven fan and replace it with an electric, likely the same Flex-a-lite 180 I used on my 2000. I’ve never seen that custom hood before, but it looks pretty sweet!

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

I’m pleased to be back with another build update. My brother was very kind to me last Christmas in giving me an extremely nice aftermarket headunit as a gift, with all the GPS, hands free, and Bluetooth connectivity of a modern vehicle user interface. Given that it was a cold Canadian winter, I held off doing the project until the springtime, since I park outdoors and didn’t want to snap any of the plastic clips removing any of the trim pieces.

Removing the trim pieces to remove the stock headunit is shockingly easy. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever pulled apart a center stack in a vehicle so quickly. This is not intimidating, and can be done with merely two tools and your hands in 5 minutes. All you will need is a 7mm socket, short extension, and a plastic trim removal tool, or flathead screwdriver with some electrical tape around the tip so as not to damage your plastic trim. I used a bicycle tire lever, essentially the same tool as a plastic trim puller for this application.

First, open the center console. Remove the two small 7mm bolts at the front of the storage compartment. Remove the chrome trim ring around the gear shift with your plastic tool. After releasing the four clips, engage the emergency, turn the key to accessory power, and put it in N. this is done for ease of trim removal, and providing adequate wiggle room. Pull upward on the plastic section that contains the cupholders, there is a clip at each corner to release. You will also need to remove the plastic connector that powers the 12v power supply if your Center console is equipped with one. Finally, pull outward at the top of the center stack, and release the clips at the bottom as well. Shifting into 1st makes this piece easiest to remove. You will be left with this:

I did not feel it necessary to unplug all the the HVAC and other switch power connectors, and merely moved the piece off to the side to remove the factory headunit. 4 7mm bolts hold it in the dash, and they’re easier to access if you use a short 2-3” extension. There are 3 plugs at the back of the headunit to remove, and the antenna connector (orange wire in above photo).

After this, I went inside to wire all the new connectors with the aftermarket headunit, to the PAC steering wheel control harness and module. I admittedly hate doing, and am not very knowledgeable in wiring, nor interpreting the diagrams very well. I matched up all the colors and used quick posi-connectors to make all physical wire pairings, opting not to solder for easier removal at a later date.

I installed the unit into a Metra faceplate adapter. 4 screws hold it to the aftermarket unit, a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX. The notch of the faceplate adapter should be at the top.

The next day I went out to route the GPS sensor, and microphone for use of the hands free and phone call features. I placed the microphone high on the drivers A-pillar, and the GPS sensor on the passenger front of the dash, making sure not to cover any access panels or vents. In both cases, I routed the wiring down the front of the dash between the window, and plumbed the wiring into the headunit relief of the center stack using a fish tape and hook. This part is tedious but makes for a nice clean job without visible wiring exposed everywhere. Make sure to clean the surfaces where the double sided tape anchors both of these sensors. The one connection I did not make was to the emergency brake, which allows the screen to be used for video watching from an external source if parked with the emergency brake engaged. Since I plan to go back in after a few months to connect a backup camera (once I find one I like), I will deal with it then. For now, the completed look:

I checked to make sure everything worked before putting all the trim pieces back in place, since my own faith in my wiring abilities is questionable at the best of times. Happy that everything worked, and feeling pretty good about my ability to not blow any fuses, or electrocute myself, I put everything back together.

A new head unit is a great way to modernize the interior of an older vehicle, and in this case I’m glad to have the improved functionality so far. Eventually I plan to add an amp/DSP and subwoofer to this setup, but for now I still have to get to the rear door dynamat and door speaker upgrade to match the fronts. Will keep you all posted when I get to that step!

 

[Bazz270]

I’m pleased to be back with another build update. My brother was very kind to me last Christmas in giving me an extremely nice aftermarket headunit as a gift, with all the GPS, hands free, and Bluetooth connectivity of a modern vehicle user interface. Given that it was a cold Canadian winter, I held off doing the project until the springtime, since I park outdoors and didn’t want to snap any of the plastic clips removing any of the trim pieces.

Removing the trim pieces to remove the stock headunit is shockingly easy. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever pulled apart a center stack in a vehicle so quickly. This is not intimidating, and can be done with merely two tools and your hands in 5 minutes. All you will need is a 7mm socket, short extension, and a plastic trim removal tool, or flathead screwdriver with some electrical tape around the tip so as not to damage your plastic trim. I used a bicycle tire lever, essentially the same tool as a plastic trim puller for this application.

First, open the center console. Remove the two small 7mm bolts at the front of the storage compartment. Remove the chrome trim ring around the gear shift with your plastic tool. After releasing the four clips, engage the emergency, turn the key to accessory power, and put it in N. this is done for ease of trim removal, and providing adequate wiggle room. Pull upward on the plastic section that contains the cupholders, there is a clip at each corner to release. You will also need to remove the plastic connector that powers the 12v power supply if your Center console is equipped with one. Finally, pull outward at the top of the center stack, and release the clips at the bottom as well. Shifting into 1st makes this piece easiest to remove. You will be left with this:

View attachment 329406

I did not feel it necessary to unplug all the the HVAC and other switch power connectors, and merely moved the piece off to the side to remove the factory headunit. 4 7mm bolts hold it in the dash, and they’re easier to access if you use a short 2-3” extension. There are 3 plugs at the back of the headunit to remove, and the antenna connector (orange wire in above photo).

View attachment 329407

After this, I went inside to wire all the new connectors with the aftermarket headunit, to the PAC steering wheel control harness and module. I admittedly hate doing, and am not very knowledgeable in wiring, nor interpreting the diagrams very well. I matched up all the colors and used quick posi-connectors to make all physical wire pairings, opting not to solder for easier removal at a later date.

View attachment 329411

I installed the unit into a Metra faceplate adapter. 4 screws hold it to the aftermarket unit, a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX. The notch of the faceplate adapter should be at the top.

The next day I went out to route the GPS sensor, and microphone for use of the hands free and phone call features. I placed the microphone high on the drivers A-pillar, and the GPS sensor on the passenger front of the dash, making sure not to cover any access panels or vents. In both cases, I routed the wiring down the front of the dash between the window, and plumbed the wiring into the headunit relief of the center stack using a fish tape and hook. This part is tedious but makes for a nice clean job without visible wiring exposed everywhere. Make sure to clean the surfaces where the double sided tape anchors both of these sensors. The one connection I did not make was to the emergency brake, which allows the screen to be used for video watching from an external source if parked with the emergency brake engaged. Since I plan to go back in after a few months to connect a backup camera (once I find one I like), I will deal with it then. For now, the completed look:

View attachment 329408

I checked to make sure everything worked before putting all the trim pieces back in place, since my own faith in my wiring abilities is questionable at the best of times. Happy that everything worked, and feeling pretty good about my ability to not blow any fuses, or electrocute myself, I put everything back together.

View attachment 329409

View attachment 329410

A new head unit is a great way to modernize the interior of an older vehicle, and in this case I’m glad to have the improved functionality so far. Eventually I plan to add an amp/DSP and subwoofer to this setup, but for now I still have to get to the rear door dynamat and door speaker upgrade to match the fronts. Will keep you all posted when I get to that step!

Hi
Looks cool.
I have the old simple pioneer touchscreen unit (also with PAC adapter) without android or something...but its very reliable equipment

Also OEM 8inch Subwoofer connected to aftermarket JBL amplifier (decided not to use the oem one)

 

[Bazz270]

Can you please explain what is my options with stock throttle programming using SCT X4 programmer?

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Can you please explain what is my options with stock throttle programming using SCT X4 programmer?

Hi, sorry I’m not sure I understand the question. Please PM me if you’d like to know anything specific about the tuner, I ordered it and the files from Brenspeed.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Installed some rear fender flaps from Husky Liner. My summer wheel and tire set sit outboard from the truck due to their offset, so to prevent rocks/gravel/sand from damaging the paint on the rear quarters, I decided to do my best Land Rover Defender impression!

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Using an aftermarket intake can sometimes generate a check engine light produced by a “lean code”, since the MAF sensor is noticing more incoming metered airflow. Even though I have a tune to compensate for the few mods I’ve done, I sourced and aftermarket MAF sensor from Jet Chip. It is apparently properly calibrated for use with a cold air intake kit. Time will tell if this will prevent the check engine light produced from the lean codes. I typically clear them with my tuner, but it would be nice to stop this issue altogether.

I also did an EBC brake rotor, and Yellow Stuff brake pad upgrade at all four wheels.

Front:

Rear:

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Finally got around to getting the rear doors sound insulated with dynamat, and the matching pair of JL Audio C2-570X’s installed. I learned a few tricks after the first attempt. Before removing the plastic door trim panel, I traced its silhouette with green masking tape so that I’d have a visual limit line for my dynamat install. There are far fewer features and cuts to make, wires to fuss with, and other annoyances compared to the front doors. That, and I was armed with being further along the learning/experience curve using the stuff. Does it add weight? Of course it does. These are 5000lb trucks after all, so I don’t mind an extra 20lbs of sound insulation. It gives the doors a nice weighty feel, and the “thud” they produce upon closure more closely mimics that of a luxury brand. I love the stuff. Don’t listen to people who say it’s a waste of time/money. It is tedious, you will get many cuts on your fingers, but it’s worth it. I’d gut my interior and line the whole truck if I could.

After you trace the panel with masking tape, remove it.

Remove the factory plastic sheeting and gasket maker holding it to the door. Wipe down the interior door sheet metal inside and out depending on where you want to place your sticky sheets of rubber sound insulation.

Once again I marked out all the little reliefs to watch out for, with a silver paint pen. Note the markings in the photo above. I also removed all the white retention clips that secure the wiring to the door panel. It makes sticking dynamat to your doors easier with this stuff out of the way. Their anchor points (small round holes) were also marked with an “X”.

This time I had another full “door kit”, and some scraps left over from the front door install. Care was taken to place some of these scraps on the inside of the door sheet metal (what would be the inside face of the most exterior panel on the truck). I focused my efforts just behind the speaker driver to prevent any vibrations from bouncing around inside the door.

Cover the rest of the panel, and you can use any scraps you have to dampen interior door vibrations as shown above. Cut out all your reliefs, and reconnect all the factory wiring, and install the aftermarket speaker.

Before you put the interior door plastic panel back on, test your new speakers to be sure that everything works, and ensure that your windows will roll up and down smoothly. If so, reinstall the plastic interior door panel, and enjoy your improved sound system!

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Update: The JET MAF sensor did not itself resolve the lean condition CEL. I may be speaking with Brenspeed soon to determine if a modified tuning file could resolve the issue.

I’ve also recently installed a set of Weathertech in-channel window deflectors, and finally got around to putting in the black housing aftermarket headlights.

I’m currently doing a laundry list of preventative maintenance parts before winter: lower ball joints, steering rack, tie rods, passenger UCA, and driver’s side manifold after having snapped a fastener, causing warping and developing an annoying ticking sound.

I’m also waiting on my Magnaflow cat-back kit to arrive, which will also be installed within the next month or so. I’ll be back with some before/after video and photos once I get the rest of this work done!

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Installed a set of Morimoto LED high/low (H13) beam bulbs. I ordered a set to convert the foglights as well, but I didn’t realize my aftermarket projector fogs took a different bulb type (H3) from the stock reflector foglight housing. Pictured below, if you have stock foglights (9005 bulb type) all the parts in the picture attached will work.

I also purchased the DRL anti-flicker harness, which was supposed to prevent “check headlight” error messages from appearing on the dash. I found it only to prevent this error intermittently, as such you may wish to omit this part if you pursue this same mod. I also bought the rubber dome end cap extensions, in 65mm. They had to be notched/trimmed slightly to fit. My H3 foglight bulbs are on the way. See below for a picture of after the headlight bulbs were installed. Note in this photo the foglights are switched off.

Overall I’m pleased so far with the much greater visibility, and cooler colour temperature (6000K) that these bulbs provide. I’ll update this post once I get the fogs in.

Edit: To update, I exchanged the wrong LED foglight bulbs for a set of Morimoto H3C 3000K HID bulbs, with a 55W ballast, and dedicated relay harness. All
parts also purchased from TheRetrofitSource.com. I prefer the yellow colour foglights to cut through inclement weather better than a whiter colour temperature does. Here’s a photo of all four new bulbs illuminated at night:

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

After waiting two months for delivery, I received my Magnaflow cat-back exhaust kit. It’s a very nice 409 stainless muffler & piping, with a polished 304 stainless welded tip. I’m always excited to do the exhaust upgrade of any vehicle build, as it really changes the attitude of the truck in addition to adding power, and complementting any upstream naturally aspirated upgrades.

The stock kit has a large resonator, muffler, and single pipe that wraps above the rear axle/crossmember, with a single exit straight out the back, by the rear driver’s side tire as below:

Cut it out by removing the bolts at the collector by the catalytic converters, and cut the remaining length into pieces to allow it to be removed from above the rear axle/crossmember. Dispose of the inferior scrap metal.

Mount the new kit in place from front to rear, placing all corresponding hangers into their rubber grommets. WD40 helps the process, and loosely place the clamps as you mock up each subsequent section.

Tighten the collector to the catalytic converter section at the front, then position and straighten the remaining sections, and tighten down the two clamps in sequence from front to rear.

The Magnaflow kit is a single side exit, with a 4” stainless tip that exits behind the driver’s side rear tire, and facing the driver’s side of the body. I think it’s a great sound, appearance, and performance upgrade so far.

I’ll try and upload a video of a before vs. after sound difference, for anyone else who might be considering this upgrade! After a brief drive I’d say that it sounds deeper, but in a more subtle rather than in-your-face kind of loud. There’s no annoying drone, the cold start-up is nice, and it’s quiet while cruising at highway speeds.

 

[Bazz270]

Looks awesome

 

[Fbird]

looking pretty good there!! YES the DYNOMAT is 10000% worthwhile for interior noise help! (especially the doors!) My 06 is the 4.0 so no really power stuff happening there but I do enjoy playing with the truck.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

After some hard starts in cold weather, I determined my 8 year old Optima Yellowtop had reached the end of it’s useful lifespan. I purchased a new one today, and dropped it in the truck with some Installgear battery terminals I got from Amazon for about $30CAD. These upgraded terminals have set screws which allow for connecting accessories such as lighting, aftermarket stereo components, and other electrical upgrades more easily, with much more contact surface area, and a cleaner look. The two small gauge wires connected to the nut on both terminal clamps power my HID foglight relay kit. It was extremely cold outside and I was running out of daylight to clean everything up. As such that was a temporary measure, and I’ll be going back in to add ferrule ends to the wires, and use the 10 gauge accessory set screws to anchor these same connections. See below for the near-completed look.

 

[Fbird]

any particular reason you went with the deep cycle battery? instead of the red top HIGH CRANK battery? BTW yes those terminals are great, still need to put grease on them..

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

any particular reason you went with the deep cycle battery? instead of the red top HIGH CRANK battery? BTW yes those terminals are great, still need to put grease on them..

Yes, because fairly soon I’ll be adding an amp to my stereo system that demands about 1000W, an electric fan in the not too distant future, and possibly some other accessories. They’re also advantageous since the truck is sometimes parked for extended periods in an extremely cold climate, and the deep cycle is best for these applications, despite the slight reduction in CCA.

 

[Ghazitm]

The Rancho Quicklift struts have been discontinued. With adjustable damping the ride quality is greatly improved over stock. I suggest looking into the strut spacers available from Supreme Suspension, for both your front and rear struts. I purchased my rear spacers from Supreme, and have been pleased with the results. I will message you privately with a photo of the upper control arm ball joint angle. My plan for the near future is to get the aftermarket uniball upper control arm set from BTF fabrication, which corrects the angle of the upper ball joint due to minor lifting.

Good day Greg,

I have 2006 limited EXPLORER and I am planning to make it off-road SUV starting with limited budget. I like the lift you'd done to your EXPLORER.

I am planning to add 3" spacer for the front. Do I need to change the upper ball joint?

TAWFEEQ..