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New $250 '97 Explorer - List of Problems

jj421

New Member
Joined
November 24, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Carnation, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer Sport V6
Hey everybody! First time posting here, and I hope I can get some good advice. I own a '90 Subaru Loyale and am very familiar with the Subaru forum, so I hope this forum is just as good. :)

I'm not completely foreign to Fords or Explorers. My family also owns a '99 Mustang GT and a '99 Explorer XLT. But these cars are in good running shape, so I haven't done much work on them besides general maintenance.

Anyways, I've recently got my hands on a '97 Explorer. We recently moved and I noticed this sitting near the house. Talked to the landlord and found that a previous tenant left the car there due to an electrical problem. I told her I can buy it off of her and get it running again.

It's a 2-door, sport version. Dual range 4WD and the 4.0 OHV push rod V6. It also has the 5-speed manual transmission in it, which I think is pretty cool. The body is straight and interior is clean (it needs to be vacuumed and there is a rip on the passenger seat, but otherwise is in fantastic shape). What really got me about this truck is it has 342,429 miles on it! :eek: I love cars with high miles, since it means they've been driven and cared for. And they show how tough they are. It seems like the previous owner(s) have really cared for this car. The engine bay, exterior, and interior are clean. But it also seems like the previous owner(s) tried to fix things themselves, but didn't know how to do things properly. The tabs expired in August 2012, so I'd imagine it's been sitting for over a year.

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The point of this thread is so hopefully you guys can help answer some questions for me. Again, I'm used to forums. I know how important the search function is, and I've been searching. Just between school and work, I don't want to post an individual topic on every little problem. I was just hoping one thread could be used to work on all the problems.

Keep in mind too that there's supposed to be an electrical problem on this car. Where? I don't know. That's all the information I've been told about it.

So first thing's first, she won't start. Obviously the battery was dead, so I put in the battery from our '99 Explorer. With the key in the "on" position, the dash lights came up, turn signals worked, door chime worked, etc. Put the key into the "start" position, and everything goes dead and quiet. No click or anything. I put the blame on the loose/corroded battery terminals.

Today I went out and bought terminals. I also charged the old battery and the battery from our Mustang (the Mustang just sits). Installed the new battery terminals. The old battery was shot, but I have the Mustang battery charged up. I put that in the Explorer and connected the battery cables.

Now when I turn the key to the "start" position, I get nothing but a single click. Sounds like it's coming from the firewall. I notice that when I turn it to the "start" position, the parking brake light comes on and the two 4WD lights turn off (on the instrument cluster). When I apply the parking brake, the car still does not start. I've also tried stepping on the regular brake. No luck. I don't know of any safety features like that besides the clutch switch, so I don't know if that makes a difference. Also, all fuses look good.

Tomorrow I'm going to look at the starter motor. Going to check the connections and maybe pull (and bench test) the starter.

I've also noticed that if I leave the key in the "on" position, there is a chime coming from the passenger footwell. What does this mean? What is this for?

Now, other problems I face:

The dome light stays on, no matter the position of the dimmer switch or if all doors are closed. I pulled the bulb from the main dome light, but the trunk one still stays on. Checked the parasitic drain on the battery, and it was about 2 amps. Is this high/low? Again, that rear dome light was on.

The headlights don't work. Neither the low beams nor the high beams work, period. The filaments in the bulbs look okay. I've done a bit of research, and the multifunction switch and headlight switch are frequent culprits. I'd suspect the multifunction switch since the turn signal stalk is loose. All other lights work.

Driver side door handle feels disconnected. You can open it from the inside, but the exterior handle just kinda flops around. Is this a common problem? Easy fix?

Previous owner took off the plastic piece around the steering column, and now the steering wheel is loose. It move all over the place. It looks like there's a black piece behind the wheel that has been broken?

The hood shocks are shot. I'll see next time I go to the junkyard, but are these easy to replace? Also, the hood doesn't close. Looks like the lever has been rusted, but you can still pull on the hood release cable. I'll need to get a second person to look at it.

The rear window doesn't have any shocks or anything to hold it open. The rear window is loose too. The hatches on the top don't hold it tight. Also, one of the rear window defog cables came off. Looks like soldering it back on would work?

How do I open the trunk? Haha, do you need a separate key? If so, I don't have it.

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully you guys can help me through some of these things. Right now, I'm mainly concerned about the no-start condition. I want to get her running before doing any other work. So anyways, thanks for any help! :)
 



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I've also noticed that if I leave the key in the "on" position, there is a chime coming from the passenger footwell. What does this mean? What is this for?

The chime is probably coming from the steering column, which is the seatbelt/ignition chime.

Now, other problems I face:

The dome light stays on, no matter the position of the dimmer switch or if all doors are closed. I pulled the bulb from the main dome light, but the trunk one still stays on. Checked the parasitic drain on the battery, and it was about 2 amps. Is this high/low? Again, that rear dome light was on.

One of the door switches has to be sticking. To easily figure out which one, you'll need to get the truck to start. The most common ones are the rear hatch or rear hatch glass.

The headlights don't work. Neither the low beams nor the high beams work, period. The filaments in the bulbs look okay. I've done a bit of research, and the multifunction switch and headlight switch are frequent culprits. I'd suspect the multifunction switch since the turn signal stalk is loose. All other lights work.

Check fuses and relays before jumping to conclusions.

Driver side door handle feels disconnected. You can open it from the inside, but the exterior handle just kinda flops around. Is this a common problem? Easy fix?

Very common problem. The spring in the door handle broke. Mine has been like that for over 3 years now. Doesn't really matter.

Previous owner took off the plastic piece around the steering column, and now the steering wheel is loose. It move all over the place. It looks like there's a black piece behind the wheel that has been broken?

How can the steering wheel be loose if the covering panel is missing? I don't think I understand this, but you can get a new cover from a junk yard. Taking it off is easy, 3 screws on the bottom side, and you have to unscrew the tilt wheel lever. It just unscrews when you get a grip on it with pliers.

The hood shocks are shot. I'll see next time I go to the junkyard, but are these easy to replace? Also, the hood doesn't close. Looks like the lever has been rusted, but you can still pull on the hood release cable. I'll need to get a second person to look at it.

Super easy to take off/put on. It's just a matter of lifting on a metal tab. However, NEVER trust those stupid hood struts. I've had the hood fall on my head. Get a hood rod from an F150 or something and just use that if you know you'll be sticking your head under the hood.

The rear window doesn't have any shocks or anything to hold it open. The rear window is loose too. The hatches on the top don't hold it tight. Also, one of the rear window defog cables came off. Looks like soldering it back on would work?

Get new struts or some from a scrap yard. They go on the same way as the hood struts. Little metal tabs. How is the window loose? You can probably tighten the screws if it's wiggling around. The defrost cable can be soldered back on. One of mine has been soldered on, works like normal.

How do I open the trunk? Haha, do you need a separate key? If so, I don't have it.

The trunk uses the same key as the door/ignition. To open it, unlock it and turn the rear handle clockwise. Clockwise opens the whole hatch, counter clockwise opens the hatch glass.

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully you guys can help me through some of these things. Right now, I'm mainly concerned about the no-start condition. I want to get her running before doing any other work. So anyways, thanks for any help! :)

Here's the guide for 'no start': http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264205
 






Thanks for the quick response! I'll try and get some video of the problems today, so you can better understand them. Kinda hard to explain over text.

There are two separate chimes that I hear. One is the ignition chime that is coming from the driver's side, and then a second chime comes from the passenger footwell, by the passenger door. I'll get a video of this so you can hear it.

I figured a door switch would be sticking. I have a hunch that it's the rear glass switch, since it was open when I first looked at the truck. Probably got rusted open or something, although the glass closes fine.

I've checked all fuses, but not relays. I'll take a look at the wiring diagrams and see what relays to check.

Good to know the door handle problem is simple. I will want to get it fixed though, since I'd like to be able to open the driver side door from the outside, haha.

Well, the covering panel is missing, but there's also a black piece behind the steering wheel that looks like it has been broken. I'll get video of this too. I'm thinking I'll have to pull the steering wheel to replace it, but I'm not sure.

I might get a hood prop for it. The hood shocks aren't a big deal. The rear glass shocks I'll pick up from the junkyard. I'll get video of how the window is loose. When it's open, you can wiggle it a bit. Soldering on the defog cable should be no problem.

Okay, I figured it was turning the handle to the right. It's just I can turn the key when I put it in the keyhole and I have a hard time turning the handle to the right. I guess it's just stuck or something.

I've been kinda following that list. I'm at step 10. Where is the starter motor relay? Is it in that relay box that's fender-mounted near the battery?

Thanks!
 






This is minor, compared to your other issues, but just a comment on the driver door lock issue. There are two separate problems: 1) The handle is loose 2) The handle does not operate the lock. It's common for both to happen at about the same time.

#1 is mostly cosmetic, and, as DjDom said, many don't bother with. The 'proper' repair is to replace the handle assembly -- which is pricey and needs to be painted. An alternative is to replace the broken springs on the handle shaft. These springs are hard to find. Someone's solution was to buy a cheap aftermarket handle and take the springs from there. A few people improvised attaching external springs, hooked somewhere inside the door, so the handle did not need to be removed.

#2 is the real problem. The culprit is a broken spring in the latch assembly. It can be replaced with a LOT of patience, and someone sells those (don't remember at this time who). My solution was buying a new latch assembly. Don't use one from a junkyard.

As usual, the details have all been discussed here before. The best way to search is to use Google, with something like: "driver door latch site:explorerforum.com". Google's search engine is a lot better than the one provided by this site.
 






This is minor, compared to your other issues, but just a comment on the driver door lock issue. There are two separate problems: 1) The handle is loose 2) The handle does not operate the lock. It's common for both to happen at about the same time.

#1 is mostly cosmetic, and, as DjDom said, many don't bother with. The 'proper' repair is to replace the handle assembly -- which is pricey and needs to be painted. An alternative is to replace the broken springs on the handle shaft. These springs are hard to find. Someone's solution was to buy a cheap aftermarket handle and take the springs from there. A few people improvised attaching external springs, hooked somewhere inside the door, so the handle did not need to be removed.

#2 is the real problem. The culprit is a broken spring in the latch assembly. It can be replaced with a LOT of patience, and someone sells those (don't remember at this time who). My solution was buying a new latch assembly. Don't use one from a junkyard.

As usual, the details have all been discussed here before. The best way to search is to use Google, with something like: "driver door latch site:explorerforum.com". Google's search engine is a lot better than the one provided by this site.

The one provided by this site is a Google Search engine. Works the same way.

@OP, does your outside handle NOT open the door at all?

If so, the little plastic clip holding the handle rod to the latch rod probably broke. Also common in older trucks since it's plastic holding metal together under tension.
 






The one provided by this site is a Google Search engine. Works the same way.

@OP, does your outside handle NOT open the door at all?

If so, the little plastic clip holding the handle rod to the latch rod probably broke. Also common in older trucks since it's plastic holding metal together under tension.

No, my door does not open from the outside. The handle is loose and free. It's obviously not connected to anything. You'll be able to see in the video I made. The video is currently uploading to YouTube.

I'll definitely be searching and doing more research on this when I get the car started. Sounds like a common problem, so I should be able to find a wealth of information on it. :)

Anyways, I did what not to do. I jumped to conclusions. I decided to pull the starter motor. This required a lot of work and I really should've done more testing. But it's out of the truck now, and I'm going to take it to O'Reilly for them to bench test it. The electrical connections seemed corroded, and the starter itself looks like it's seen better days. I'll see what the bench test results are and hopefully it's faulty. :D

I've also heard the fender mounted starter solenoid is a somewhat common failure. I definitely should've tested that before jumping to the starter, but oh well. We'll see.
 






I wish I could find a $250 Explorer in decent condition..
 






Yeah, for the price, I think I'm getting quite a truck. Again, interior is almost perfect. Passenger seat is ripped, trunk carpet is missing, and it needs to be vacuumed, but it's in great shape. I can't wait until I can wash the outside.

We recently moved out here, and I noticed this Explorer sitting, looking abandoned. Talked to our new landlord and she said that a previous renter left it there due to the electrical problem. She said scrapyards wouldn't even give her $200 for it, so I offered $250. We're still waiting on a certificate from the highway patrol saying she can move it. Then I can sign the title in my name and drive it away (hopefully).

Got back from O'Reilly. They bench tested the starter, and found it to be faulty. Aha! Purchased a new starter and going to try to install it before work tomorrow. If it takes me as long to install it as it did to remove it, I won't have enough time. But I'll see. Also cleaned up the battery cables that connect to the starter, so hopefully that helps too.

It was a real gamble for me to buy this starter. I don't know if this is the only thing it needs to start. I think it is, but I really should've done more testing. Will she start? If so, will she run okay? I've put a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley, and the motor turns by hand. I'd like to do a compression test, but I can't until I can get it to turn over. I also hope the alternator isn't screwed from sitting so long. If so, I can't afford a new one for another week and a half. I'm also going to need to buy a new battery if she fires up.

So many things, haha. I'm just hoping this new starter will do the trick. I haven't noticed much out of the ordinary while trying to start it. Whatever "electrical problem" it had doesn't seem to affect the starting of the car. I'm not even sure if it has an electrical problem.
 






Lol, it's probably the starter.

I'd recommend you change oil and make sure there's new/clean gas in the tank if it's been sitting for a long time.
 






Looks like I won't be able to install the new starter until Thanksgiving day. I'm definitely looking forward to then.

Yup, when/if I get it running, and it's running okay, I was gonna do a fluid flush and change. New oil and filter, new coolant, new gas. But that's just hoping the engine runs okay, haha.
 






She lives!!!! :) :thumbsup:

Today, I installed the new starter motor. Went to turn the key and same thing: just one single click. Put my multimeter leads on the fender-mounted starter solenoid and found that it wasn't working properly. So I went to O'Reilly and picked up a new solenoid.

Installed the solenoid and she fired right up!! Ran and idled perfectly. No smoke, no smells, no noises. Maybe a little bit of a misfire, but I'm thinking new plugs and wires should fix that.

Next step is to flush and replace all the fluids. Oil, coolant, and power steering fluid. Brake fluid should be okay since it's got plenty of brake pressure. I'd also like to get new plugs and wires, as well as a new air filter.

Checked everything, and it looks like it all is working okay. Power windows work perfectly, power locks work, radio works, climate controls work, wipers work, steering works, gears don't grind, gauges all work, etc. Some things don't work though. Rear wiper doesn't work, power mirrors don't work, A/C doesn't work, and headlights still don't work.

I'll need to take a run to the junkyard to get some things. Definitely need the multifunction switch. The turn signal stalk is loose and sometimes when signalling right, it has a buzzing noise. That'll also probably fix the headlights as well. Gonna replace the front headlight and turn signals (not the bulbs, but the entire assemblies) since they're water damaged and faded. Right rear taillight is gonna get replaced since it's cracked and discolored.

Anyways, I'm glad I got this beast running! Can't wait to drive it, and maybe take it offroad. Gotta get it cleaned up as well. But yeah, today was a great day!! :thumbsup:
 






Happy for ya man!
I love the enthusiasm! Cheers!
 






That's great news. Don't take it offroad until it's street worthy. You don't wanna find out you have bad ball joints off road..
 






Happy for ya man!
I love the enthusiasm! Cheers!

Thanks! I'm definitely excited!

And of course. I'm obviously making it street worthy before anything else. It'd be absolutely ridiculous to take it offroad right now. Gotta get everything fixed, cleaned, and registered. Take it on the road, and if I feel comfortable after plenty of driving, I'll go to the mountains.

Looks like Wednesday is gonna be the day I change out the fluids. Next Sunday is probably when I'm gonna go to the junkyard. And by Sunday, I'm gonna try and get the truck cleaned up a bit and conquer some of the free/easy repairs (e.g. soldering on that rear defog cable).
 






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