List of Problems from mechanic

[Big6ft6]

So,

Bought the new 97 5.0L for $2,200 with 91k mi. Could tell the front end was a mess, so took it in to have the professional take a look before I invested a dime.

Here is what came back
1) Upper and Lower ball joints, upper VERY bad (I knew this)
2) Right outer tie rod end is bad
3) Rear axle seals are leaking
4) Metal flakes on the rear diff drain plug
5) Pinion has looseness and pinion seal is leaking on rear
6) Shake on acceleration...think it is a CV axle
7) Exhuast hangers broken
8) needs tires bad ( I knew this too)

I'm comfortable doing all the work except the rear axle stuff, I've never gotten into axle seals, and definitely don't want to get into a rear differential.

Should I punt or keep the truck?

 

[haphop]

So,

Bought the new 97 5.0L for $2,200 with 91k mi. Could tell the front end was a mess, so took it in to have the professional take a look before I invested a dime.

Here is what came back
1) Upper and Lower ball joints, upper VERY bad (I knew this)
2) Right outer tie rod end is bad
3) Rear axle seals are leaking
4) Metal flakes on the rear diff drain plug
5) Pinion has looseness and pinion seal is leaking on rear
6) Shake on acceleration...think it is a CV axle
7) Exhuast hangers broken
8) needs tires bad ( I knew this too)

I'm comfortable doing all the work except the rear axle stuff, I've never gotten into axle seals, and definitely don't want to get into a rear differential.

Should I punt or keep the truck?

WOW! All that with only 91kmi. Was he using for a mountain goat?

 

[windsors03cobra]

Put a junkyard axle in it. 227k on all the stuff here and all working fine. My balljoints have been changed tho.

 

[Big6ft6]

Yeah, I think that would be my game plan. If the rear axle dies I'd just get a used axle, forget messing with rebuilding the diff.

I just get nervous, this poor truck has been passed around. It was previously titled in another state, sold through an auction to a cheap car peddler, who sold it to the previous owner who only had it for 6 months...I'm just worried nobody has had it long enough to care for it. Clearly someone let things get this bad...what are the chances the changed fluids regularly?

Maybe I'm over-analyzing, but if I'm going to spend some sweat and blood, which will lead me to getting emotionally attached (which always happens once I start working on a vehicle), I need to consider these things.

Right now I have nothing invested, I could just flip and maybe even make some coin.

 

[my98nnj]

WOW! All that with only 91kmi. Was he using for a mountain goat?

Have to agree here. Doesn't sound like it had an easy 91k miles.
Definitely not a vehicle I'd be wanting to buy with that much premature ware and tare.

 

[windsors03cobra]

Its too bad these trucks when in good order are a real pleasure to own. I couldnt ask for a better more durable vehicle for daily driving in WI. I am partial to the 98-01 V8 and dont really care for the early V8's or any V6 trucks.

 

[Big6ft6]

Its too bad these trucks when in good order are a real pleasure to own. I couldnt ask for a better more durable vehicle for daily driving in WI. I am partial to the 98-01 V8 and dont really care for the early V8's or any V6 trucks.

Just curious. What is the difference between the early V8's and later V8s? Other than Gt-40p heads?

 

[Big6ft6]

I had some coffee this morning, now I'm starting to think about keeping the truck and fixing it. I can get all the front suspension parts for both sides for like $180 total, and just replace them all. Then get an alignment for $100.

I'll take out the front driveshaft for now to deal with binding from fried VC. Rebuild the CV joint while the shaft is out.

Worry about the VC later...how hard is it just to replace the VC in the transfer case?

Axles bearings/seals aren't that bad.

I just found tires with only 5k miles for $210 all four.

Jeez...see this is my problem. It will really take twice as long and cost twice as much. Then I'll sell the truck for a loss in a couple years....

 

[mr_valingo]

Check car-part.com for a junkyard transfer case. Got mine for 150. And its way simpler than rebuilding

 

[RomeovilleIL]

.. sell truck at a loss in a couple years... LOL!

Since when do we expect to sell for breakeven or even make money on a truck driven for a few years.

 

[jremington59]

If you could sell for a profit right now with all those things wrong I'd like to bring mine there and sell it, lol....

 

[Big6ft6]

.. sell truck at a loss in a couple years... LOL!

Since when do we expect to sell for breakeven or even make money on a truck driven for a few years.

Yeah...you're right, I always try to explain that to my wife, if I got use out of the truck I shouldn't expect to sell it for what I bought it for. I shouldn't use the phrase "break even" or "sell at a loss".

I guess I mean, I usually end up investing WAY WAY WAY more...and in the end realize I could've bought a much nicer vehicle for the same money.

It always starts with a dream, I buy a truck that needs work, then I think.."oh this will cheap to fix...and I'll end up a nice truck for much less than what it would've cost to buy the truck without problems"....but it never works.

Last one, bought an 89 3/4 ton Suburban for $500. Invested $6000+ (over 6 years) sold for $1,500. For $6,000 I could've had a really nice truck that didn't need any work. I vowed I wouldn't try that approach again (although I loved every minute of it!)....now here I am strangely attracted to a similar situation thinking I can come out ahead fixing up an abused old truck.

Also as I get older I become more risk averse..I don't have as much time anymore.

Oh....and did I mention my wife is due with our first kid in 6 weeks.

 

[windsors03cobra]

Just curious. What is the difference between the early V8's and later V8s? Other than Gt-40p heads?

I dont have any problem with the engines, the 5.0 is tried and true and tough as nails. I personally do not care for the perforated leather, the rotary liftgate handle, the plate in the bumper, the V8 AWD fender badges, the older radio and steering wheel controls and the lack of heated seats on those earlier V8 models.

I will say tho no matter what you buy short of maybe ten grand ? You're probably going to be doing some work on it. I'm talking brakes, tires, battery, ball joints. Normal wear and tear type items, so no mater what you want to roll you might as well fix it up a little and then you know what you have. Sure you could sell it for whatever price I dont know but then go buy something else and its going to need some TLC also. So pick a "good car" (good engines, durable trans, well built) and replace some of the little ancillary items and drive it till the wheels fall off.

5 or 10 years ago in the age of running auto companies as a jobs program the overproduction made buying a decent later model automobile with lots of life left in it could probably be had for $5000-7500, with inflation and the tight used car market now those cars are $7500-10,000. And for $2 grand you get a car you can easily dump a grand into it to make it roll.

Trick is to start with a decent powertrain and bodycan in decent condition and and not end up with a vehicle that is going to eat its timing chains or **** its transmission.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Madison is in the salt and snow belt with the rest of us. If the body and undercarriage are in good shape without the normal cancer found in these parts, then most likely putting $500 of parts into it isnt a terrible thing.

Nice score on the tires! I'm always amazed at people totally overlooking the used tire market. Tire shops usually charge a disposal fee and offer nothing for the take-offs, so it is not uncommon to get really good deals from private sellers. Like any other used parts you have to inspect carefully and might need to mix from a couple sources, but definitely will save $$$. Check craigslist. Best deals are the guys doing mods since they just want to offset their upgrade costs & get stuff out of the garage. Recently picked up a set of jeep rims & tires with low miles as he upsized to swampers. Last summer bought the tires off a brand spanking new toyota truck the owner was lowering (still had green stickers on the sidewall from the dealership).

 

[Big6ft6]

Windsor, that is a good perspective, I have no reason to believe the engine and trans in the truck have any problems...but boy, if I they do develope a problem after I put the rest of this stuff in (rebuilt transfer case will be $850) it will be hard to swallow.

Romeoville, it is rusty, but not too bad...just at the rockers right now, particularly passenger side, and I'm pretty comfortable cuttong those out and tack welding in a replacement.

The best tire deal I scored on CL was a guy whose s-10 was repososed by the bank (peak of recession) he had just bought 31" tires with big mud lugs and he pulled them off and put the factories back on before the bank took it. I got all 4 with super low miles (3K) for $150. I happened to see the ad pop up and left work to go buy 'em. When I got there he was like "yeah I gues I should've posted 'em for more...my phone's been ringing off the hook while I've been waiting for you"

 

[Turdle]

Umm, Mech diagnosis #4 would not be possible without pulling the pan, as there is no drain plug.

Therefore, I would go over everything yourself.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Umm, Mech diagnosis #4 would not be possible without pulling the pan, as there is no drain plug.

Therefore, I would go over everything yourself.

Aboslutely agree, you wont know until you pull the cover off the differential. I suspect he means the magnet on the back of the fill plug. Having a small amount of metal, like light glitter, is not uncommon at high miles. My big concern would be if the axle seals have been leaking for a while the rear could be completely trashed. That plus a worn leaking pinion = get a used replacement axle.

Problem is just pulling the differential cover to inspect is going to cost at least a new gasket or tube of rtv along with about $65 of fluids. If everything look good its time for set of seals, pinion sleeve/new pinion and potentially new half shafts if they were run for very long on bad seals.

For the immediate time being I would fixed the front end and top off the rear differential with some inexpensive gear oil so you are roadworthy and start shopping around for the new axle. If anything, topping off and driving a little will give you a good idea of how bad the leaks are and how much fluid has been previously lost. If you find the rear end is chatter-free and runs smoothly enough to rebuild, you are only out $10 and can dive into the project. If its rough, I wouldnt open that can of worms.

 

[mountaineerbeast]

Sounds like 91k only on the trails...

Rear pinion seal isn't too bad, gear puller is easiest way to get the seal out.
Sounds like you need to pretty much rebuild the rear axle though.
Btw, metal flakes on the rear diff drain plug doesn't always mean the diff is going bad, as mine had flakes, but nothing has happened since rear seal replace about 1500 miles ago.

Well, at least it's the 5.0 otherwise it wouldn't be worth it.

 

[jremington59]

Here's how I look at it. If I were to go out and buy an explorer from a dealer with no money down I'd have payments of about 350 per month. Thats 4 thousand dollars a year. And before three years was up I'd be putting money into that one and still have a couple years on the loan.

I've had mine for almost three years and still don't have 3 thousand dollars in it, all the while keeping it in good condition, and adding some upgrades such as cold air intake, catback exhaust, grill guard and aftermarket lights. Yea, I'm not counting my labor, but keeping me busy isn't a bad thing either......

Speaking of deals I missed, I ran across an old CL add for a 5.0 2000 with 88 thousand original miles. With no rust. They sold it for 2600. It's been a week and I'm still crying myself to sleep, lol.

 

[Big6ft6]

Umm, Mech diagnosis #4 would not be possible without pulling the pan, as there is no drain plug.

Therefore, I would go over everything yourself.

I was wondering about that. Thanks for clarifying. I was also wondering if he pulled the drain plug...did he replace the fluid that drained out????? Good to know there must have been something lost in translation. The check out guy was reading off the mechanic's notes.