New Baby on the Way! Need some advice...

[Mounty99]

New baby on the way, and my wife is worried my beloved Mountaineer (1999, almost all original parts, 213,000 miles) is not safe.

I took it to a local mechanic for a safety inspection. He says my wheel bearings on the front are shot. I haven't heard any crazy noises or anything, and don't have much extra money right now, so … any harm in continuing to drive with the old wheel bearings??

Also, anything else specific I should check on this truck that could be a safety issue?

Thanks for any advice. --Mounty99

PS. If I do buy new hub assemblies, which of these would you suggest? (Timken-$92 each, Ford-$184 each)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119335&cc=1356522&jnid=448&jpid=5

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ponents-scat/?part_name=front-hub-and-bearing

 

[Mesozoic]

New baby on the way, and my wife is worried my beloved Mountaineer (1999, almost all original parts, 213,000 miles) is not safe.

I took it to a local mechanic for a safety inspection. He says my wheel bearings on the front are shot. I haven't heard any crazy noises or anything, and don't have much extra money right now, so…(1) Any harm in continuing to drive with the old wheel bearings?

Also, anything else specific I should check on this truck that could be a safety issue?[/I]

Thanks for any advice.

Mounty99

PS. If I do buy new hub assemblies, which of these would you suggest?
Timken $92 each
Ford $184 each

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119335&cc=1356522&jnid=448&jpid=5

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ponents-scat/?part_name=front-hub-and-bearing

Sounds like a bit of paranoia to me. Wheel bearings make noise when they're on their way out. It's also not super common unless you're wheeling hard and/or have wheel spacers putting added stress on them. I would be more concerned about the transmission condition and making sure all the fluids in all the various cases (engine, transmission, rear axle, front axle, transfer case, etc.) as well as the brake fluid and brake condition is good.

Timken is a solid, made in the US brand, nothing to worry about greatly there.

 

[crunchie_frog]

If it has 213K miles, all original parts, relative to safety, I would be concerned about:

1. front upper and lower ball joints - almost certainly need replacing if they are original
2. Shock absorbers - almost certainly need replacing if they are original
3. All wipers working, wiper fluid and wiper blades in good condition?
4. Rear defrost working?
5. All lights, exterior, interior, instrument panel, turn signals and lights working?
3. All brake components (hoses, master brake cylinder, rear brake line over differential, calipers, discs, condition of fluid...) - depends on where the vehicle has lived its life, up north, you will have some bad components if they are original.
4. Battery and alternator condition - need to be sure you are getting adequate charge from the alternator and battery is in good condition ( auto parts stores will do this, I would get more that one opinion if you do not know how to do this yourself)
5. fuel pump, just my opinion, you don't want to have it die somewhere and at 213K miles, it is a candidate to go out at any time.
6. I would also add front end alignment and wheel balancing. You can still drive safely without these being perfect, but it adds to wear and tear of suspension components and tires.
7. Probably the most important is having tires in good condition (adequate, even tread, no dry rot, correct pressure on all tires.


By the way, I would ask the local mechanic to demonstrate to you why he thinks the front wheel bearings are bad and report back here as to what he says and does to show you this.

 

[matt351]

If you are looking for a lower cost alternative for front hubs check out Detroit Axle on ebay. I bought a hub from them for like $42 shipped I believe. Great people to deal with too.

 

[SoNic67]

I put Detroit Axle hubs on mine (from eBay) a few years back and they are still OK. Hubs can separate while driving and you can loose a wheel, don't play with that.
I replaced the shocks too (all five of them, KYB Gas-A-Just on front-rear), it made a whole lot of a difference in stability.
I would look into all other suspension-related issues, new brake pads if needed... and don't forget the child seat.

To me, the safety of my family is worth more than my credit cards balance. But I do the work by myself, otherwise, with shop labor rates, is sometimes better to buy a new car. Probably that's where you wife is hinting

 

[sehaare]

Wheel bearings/hub is a very serious issue on the second generation Explorers. But don't take my word on it, you can read it here.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434437

I would go with the timken bearings. there is a very good chance that the ford hub has timken bearings in it, since they are one of the top two bearing companies in the world.


Also I know you said that money is tight, but I recently got nickled and dimed to death on my 98 front end doing all the components one at a time as they failed. Think about this kit to do it all at once.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5646801&cc=1354542&jnid=560&jpid=1

 

[koda2000]

I find that most life threatening vehicle components will make noise or produce handling issues long before they become dangerous. I try to drive all of the vehicles in my family regularly to see if anything seems amiss, inspect and maintain them as required. If you're driving a vehicle with 213K on it's original fuel pump, or a 8 year old battery, it's just a matter of time before it will leave you stranded.

Buying a brand new vehicle is no guarantee of safety. Look and the General Motors ignition key, Honda air bag or Toyota sticking gas pedal recalls of late. All life threatening.

To check front end components, jack each front wheel off the ground jacking from under the lower control arm and try wiggling the tire from side to side from the 9 and 3 o'clock position. Play indicates tie rod wear. If you feel play wigging the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock your ball joints are worn. If your not hearing any noises while driving the wheel bearings are okay for now. Wheels bearings will make lots of noise long before failing.

IMO, Most catastrophic failures occur when people ignore the warning signs.

 

[Mounty99]

Thanks for the replies. I think my wife is being a little over cautious, and considering I don't hear a grinding noise, etc…maybe will just let those wheel hubs continue on until they start complaining a little more.

One noise that has been bothering me is a sort of "winding down' noise when i decelerate (as in slowing down for a stop light). Would this be my diff or tranny (both original) starting to go?

Also, some light clunking when going from stop to start (as in taking off when a light turns green). I thought maybe U-joints (original) were going…and that is really why i took it in for the safety inspection in the first place. But mechanic said U-joints were fine? Motor mounts maybe?

Anyway, thanks again for all of your help. I have learned so much from many of you guys over the years, and i must say it is much appreciated and has kept my Mountaineer running great!

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I find that most life threatening vehicle components will make noise or produce handling issues long before they become dangerous. I try to drive all of the vehicles in my family regularly to see if anything seems amiss, inspect and maintain them as required. If you're driving a vehicle with 213K on it's original fuel pump, or a 8 year old battery, it's just a matter of time before it will leave you stranded.

Buying a brand new vehicle is no guarantee of safety. Look and the General Motors ignition key, Honda air bag or Toyota sticking gas pedal recalls of late. All life threatening.

To check front end components, jack each front wheel off the ground jacking from under the lower control arm and try wiggling the tire from side to side from the 9 and 3 o'clock position. Play indicates tie rod wear. If you feel play wigging the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock your ball joints are worn. If your not hearing any noises while driving the wheel bearings are okay for now. Wheels bearings will make lots of noise long before failing.

IMO, Most catastrophic failures occur when people ignore the warning signs.

Agreed with this post^ I know people who have more issues with new cars than some of the used car's I've owned. Plus when it comes to all the electronics in newer cars now, I trust them even less. I'd just keep rocking your current ride until it loses something major ie engine or trans. Just do as said above, tires wiggle test and don't ignore things that don't sound right.

Thanks for the replies. I think my wife is being a little over cautious, and considering I don't hear a grinding noise, etc…maybe will just let those wheel hubs continue on until they start complaining a little more.

One noise that has been bothering me is a sort of "winding down' noise when i decelerate (as in slowing down for a stop light). Would this be my diff or tranny (both original) starting to go?

Also, some light clunking when going from stop to start (as in taking off when a light turns green). I thought maybe U-joints (original) were going…and that is really why i took it in for the safety inspection in the first place. But mechanic said U-joints were fine? Motor mounts maybe?

Anyway, thanks again for all of your help. I have learned so much from many of you guys over the years, and i must say it is much appreciated and has kept my Mountaineer running great!

I would think U joints as well. It's not always easy to tell U joints are bad unless you pull them apart. Put it this way. If they have never been replaced at 213k, they're bad. Winding down noise could be anything from a wheel bearing to a cv axle, or a even differential bearing going. Hard to pinpoint that without being there.

 

[C420sailor]

Steering, stopping, suspension.

Ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings (Timken is good to go), control arm bushings, shocks. Brakes...if your lines look good, I'd recommend a fluid flush and bleed and call it good...get any water out of the system. Pads and rotors obviously. I wouldn't fret over steering hydraulics too much---just change the fluid maybe.

Tires...no brainer.

Additionally...U-joints as mentioned earlier. A joint failing on the front end of a shaft can be absolutely catastrophic.

In terms of the parts that make her go (fuel pump, etc). Meh. Ending up on the side of the road is an inconvenience, but I wouldn't consider it unsafe. I'd focus on items that could potentially result in loss of control/braking.

FWIW, my Ex has 209k on it. I maintain the **** out of it and I've replaced a LOT of parts...but I'd drive this thing absolutely anywhere. I feel very safe in it---safer than in many friends vehicles with half the mileage.

 

[Mesozoic]

Yep, just keep her well maintained and she will serve you well. I've put over 400,000 miles on my '89 5.0L Mustang and she's good as new with a new engine put in a few years ago. My '79 Bronco moved my entire family from BC, Canada to Tucson, AZ and I wheel that vehicle very hard, but regular maintenance and keeping on top of U-joints, fluid changes in the t-case, axles, etc. and proved that the old Ford truck is a very reliable piece of machinery indeed. I must say that the electrical wiring harness, its routing, and sleeving is extremely important to avoid episodes of being stranded.

I don't think I will ever get rid of my old Fords and I'll keep retrofitting them with fuel injection, modern HVAC, better wiring, etc. for the rest of my life. One day, when Tesla comes out with a retrofit kit for their autopilot I'll even consider that!

 

[Turdle]

IMO if you had an inspection where bad hubs were found, we could not possibly guess if they are bad or not.

You can check them yourself by just jacking up the front wheels one at a time. Once the weight is off , and the vehicle is supported by a jack stand, grab the tire at 12 and 6 o:clock and try to move the wheel by pushing in and out at the top and bottom. If you feel any slop at all the bearings are worn.

Since a wheel bearing can seize and shear the front wheel and brake rotor off, I suggest you either check them again yourself or go to another place to have an inspection. Do not mention anything to the new tech about bad bearings. If a second tech suggests the same thing then I would replace them.

If any other parts in the front end are worn they will discover this during a front end alignment. In fact, now that I mention this, an alignment would be a good idea as it will uncover unsafe worn parts, make the vehicle drive safer, and, minimize tire wear. If there are any worn parts the alignment cannot be performed, and they will provide a list of parts which flunked it.

Good luck. Sleep now while you can.

 

[rb142]

One noise that has been bothering me is a sort of "winding down' noise when i decelerate (as in slowing down for a stop light). Would this be my diff or tranny (both original) starting to go?

That winding down noise is most likely your wheel bearings. Combined with the fact that one mechanic already said they were bad, it's time to pay attention. If you don't trust the mechanic, get another opinion.

 

[Mounty99]

Glad i posted, as you boys are making a lot of sense (as usual). Will order the Timken wheel hubs on Monday, and get the job done asap! Thanks again for the excellent advice.


[PS. I'll just add that I did the upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings in 2014. This year, put on new shocks, and changed all fluids (including diffs and tranny). Also, bought some Michelin LTX M/S2 tires last month. So after these wheel hubs, the Merc should be good to go!!]

 

[lobo411]

If the 1999 is what you can afford right now, then all you can do is fix it up. Just don't fool yourself, though. Your wife is right--the kind of safety technology that comes as standard equipment on all newer vehicles is vastly better than anything that was available in 1999. My 2014 Focus annoys me sometimes (for instance, it kills batteries if it isn't driven every few days, while my 1996 Explorer can sit for 6 months and start right up again), but if I ever get in a major crash I want to be in the Focus.

 

[intelisevil]

If the 1999 is what you can afford right now, then all you can do is fix it up. Just don't fool yourself, though. Your wife is right--the kind of safety technology that comes as standard equipment on all newer vehicles is vastly better than anything that was available in 1999. My 2014 Focus annoys me sometimes (for instance, it kills batteries if it isn't driven every few days, while my 1996 Explorer can sit for 6 months and start right up again), but if I ever get in a major crash I want to be in the Focus.

I know you said your Focus is 2014, but take a look at this: http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2015/01/29/iihs-driver-death-cars-top-10/22536459/

Thanks to SoNic67 for the link in a different thread!

 

[lobo411]

I know you said your Focus is 2014, but take a look at this: http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2015/01/29/iihs-driver-death-cars-top-10/22536459/

Thanks to SoNic67 for the link in a different thread!

IIHS did that study. Frankly, I don't think they did enough to compensate for the kind of driver you're likely to get in an entry level car (young) vs other vehicles. Still, the Ford Focus rates head and shoulders above the old Explorer.

http://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings/vehicle/v/ford/explorer-4-door-suv/1999

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Here's my input on the whole deal, as we all know kids are expensive, why would you buy a new vehicle? so you have to spend more money? Simply fix the problems the vehicle has right now, and enjoy the extra money in your pocket. I do agree, with that many miles some parts are running on borrowed time, BUT a some $200-$700 repairs every 6 months are so, are way cheaper then a $400-$800 car payment every month. Just keep up on maintenance on the truck, and it will be fine. Mine has 191K with a lot of abuse, and I have had no issues, but I also replace all the fluids according to the intervals, and fix things that are broken, or breaking. The Explorer platform is solid, and with work will keep going for many years to come.