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New guy with a few questions

85XR7Project

New Member
Joined
November 30, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Tripoli, IA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Mercury Mountaineer
Hi guys,

I did search a bit but didn't find much. I would like to lower my Mountaineer (99 V8 I was told its an AWD and it handles like it) and am somewhat unsure about what I need to do to do this. I have been informed I can loosen the torsion bar bolts? I guess my main questions are how much lower can I go since I have an AWD and not a 2wd?

Another quesion I had was if I decide to cam it how is the ECM going to react? I have heard cammed 94-95 Mustangs and they always have an odd idle b/c the ECM hates it.

Ive noticed most people on here are into jacking these up but I'm not into that so I'm hoping someone replies.
 



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You can lower the front by loosening the torsen bars. Depending on how much your vehicle has already sagged you should be able to go another inch without problems. more than that and you need to keep an eye on rubbing and CV joint angle. The rear can be lowered by using some shorter shackles on the leaf packs.

This is just my opinion but, lowering a 4wd or AWD vehicle is like lifting a yugo. Sure you can do it but why?
 






You need drop spindles. At two inches on the torsion you start running out of travel in the geometry.
 






A cam for sound is a waste of money and will not add power to the 5.0 in Explorers unless you do a lot of upgrades to the engine. Torque Monster headers are the only way to go. They will be cheaper too.

As far as lowering I say go for it. I get tired of all the one sided lift opinions here. I'm mildly lifted but there are a few real sweet lowered Explorers here. I remember when Turdle was and wish Turdle would have stayed that way :(
 






A cam for sound is a waste of money and will not add power to the 5.0 in Explorers unless you do a lot of upgrades to the engine. Torque Monster headers are the only way to go. They will be cheaper too.

As far as lowering I say go for it. I get tired of all the one sided lift opinions here. I'm mildly lifted but there are a few real sweet lowered Explorers here. I remember when Turdle was and wish Turdle would have stayed that way :(

My thoughts on the cam is a better RPM range and better use of the positive points on the 5.0. The cam in this engine is pretty useless as it is and falls quite flat on its face at 4k.

I have to agree with you on the lowering standpoint, I'm all to tired of the lifting bias around here. I am not into lifted vehicles so I won't consider lifting it at all, as for the comments (Manaen) about the CV's you get that binding from lifting as well. I am going for a sport truck look and would like to do this the right way so I guess I need to do more research.
 






My thoughts on the cam is a better RPM range and better use of the positive points on the 5.0. The cam in this engine is pretty useless as it is and falls quite flat on its face at 4k.

I have to agree with you on the lowering standpoint, I'm all to tired of the lifting bias around here. I am not into lifted vehicles so I won't consider lifting it at all, as for the comments (Manaen) about the CV's you get that binding from lifting as well. I am going for a sport truck look and would like to do this the right way so I guess I need to do more research.

The problem on the 5.0 Explorers is the exhaust manifold. They are pinched around the blange bolts & can not breath. This is why a cam swap is worthless with out upgrades. Putting a set of Torque Monster headers on and getting a tuner will do far more than a cam change.

There are many testimonials as to the Torque Monsters and the power gains.
 






My concern is their $700 price tag. A tuner would more than likely be a good idea though.
 






My concern is their $700 price tag. A tuner would more than likely be a good idea though.

Given a cam runs $250 by itself then you need new springs, lifters, push rods & rocker arms. That's well over $700. Then there is not enough clearance between the frame & oil pan to get the bolts for the timing cover out. This means taking the transmission support out and letting it drop enough or pulling the engine all together.
 


















Given a cam runs $250 by itself then you need new springs, lifters, push rods & rocker arms. That's well over $700. Then there is not enough clearance between the frame & oil pan to get the bolts for the timing cover out. This means taking the transmission support out and letting it drop enough or pulling the engine all together.

Pull the radiator and all that up front, that should give quite a bit of clearance.
 






Pull the radiator and all that up front, that should give quite a bit of clearance.

It will still hit the radiator support. Plus that doesn't get you access to the two bolts on the bottom of the timing chain cover

Look on both sides of the front main seal flange. See the two bumps on each side? That is the two lower bolts that pass through the oil pan and bolt to the timing cover.
 

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my bad I forgot about the newer 5.0 timing chain cover
 






I won't consider lifting it at all, as for the comments (Manaen) about the CV's you get that binding from lifting as well.

My comment was not intended to debate the lift versus lower. And yes you are correct they both run into the exact same constraints. Feel free to do whatever you want to your truck, I just stated an opinion. In the areas I use my truck I would quickly render it useless by lowering it. If you are going for a sport look and live/drive in urban areas then it may be the perfect setup for you. Try not to get your panties in a bunch, remember everyone out here is providing information for free. Actually one could say that the elite's are paying to provide you information.

Anyway good luck with your project, there are plenty of people out here who support the street side of things.
 






I wasn't upset, I was just stating that the CV joint was sort of a double edged sword. I apologize for calling you out like that.
 






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