New Toy

[Kjhadfield]

I used the purple power when cleaning under the hood- very powerful stuff. Will take the paint off. I won't be doing that again. I bought a gallon of apc that I'll dilute depending on job.

I never checked the cost of a new switch- I was in beast/fixer-all mode, this was when I self taught solder to fix overhead console and door jamb wires. Nothing was going to stop me. But funny to find out its 15$

I agree that door jamb wire is the likely and cramped but I didn't want to mess with removing the door so I made due

 

[koda2000]

I used the purple power when cleaning under the hood- very powerful stuff. Will take the paint off. I won't be doing that again. I bought a gallon of apc that I'll dilute depending on job.

I never checked the cost of a new switch- I was in beast/fixer-all mode, this was when I self taught solder to fix overhead console and door jamb wires. Nothing was going to stop me. But funny to find out its 15$

I agree that door jamb wire is the likely and cramped but I didn't want to mess with removing the door so I made due

Actually, removing the door is super easy to do and gives you lots of room to work. I just use a piece of 2x4 on a floor jack to support it, unscrew the 10mm bolt that holds the barrel connector together (after cutting off the wire tie that secures the rubber boot) then there are just four 13mm bolts that hold the hinges to the body. I have my useless son-in-law to hold/balance the door and remove it once the bolts are out. There is little-to-no adjustment for the hinges, so it's easy to put the door back when you're done. It makes it sooo much easier to work on the wires and/or door.

As I have a worn lower hinge on the driver's door, removing the door has the side benefit of making the hinge easy to repair (or replace if necessary).

I find Purple Power will discolor rubber, plastic and stain single-stage paint, but it doesn't bother clear coat paint. I use it on body panels once in a while to get off grease, tar and other nasty stuff that the wheels throw up. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but for me it's worked well and has never had an adverse effect on the paint. I rinse it off as soon as possible. BTW, Never use it on glass. It will craze it. A buddy of mine once sprayed in on a porcelain bathroom sink, forgot about it and let it sit for about 2 hours. It ate through the finish of the sink.

 

[01STrunner]

Did someone talk about taking doors off??? lol

Sounds like you're moving right along koda. On a side note, have you ever replaced the lock mechanism in a door? Mind shooting me a PM if you have?

 

[koda2000]

Today's Progress/Findings:
I may also be needing the below parts (show in "Red"). I just removed my running boards. Looks so much better w/out them! (additional pics below). Then I decided to take a look inside the left rear door to see what was up with the unattached glass. Holy crap! I knew the PO had been in there, because the interior panel retaining screws and interior door handle trim were MIA, I think he threw a grenade in there. The wiring was disconnected, the regulator is bent to ****, the center window track was laying in there loose, the regulator is no longer connected to the window bracket, all the hardware is missing, the speaker wire is broken off the back of the speaker. The window motor does work, but of course that does nothing w/out the regulator and the lock actuator appears to be dead.

It appears that the rear windows just uses a one armed regulator (unlike the fronts that use a 2-arm scissor type regulator mechanism). I may be able to straighten the bent arm if I remove the regulator, but I don't know if it will reattach and hold to the window bracket, as the plastic slide is a bit chewed up. W/out taking the other back door apart, I'm not sure what else might be missing. It seems like there needs to be a nylon slide piece that runs in/on the center track. I don't know if this is missing yet. The sad part is that I'm pretty sure the PO did all this damage because the window wasn't getting power from the master switch, which has nothing to do with the stuff he destroyed/lost. I'm hoping I don't run into anymore of his handiwork.

Well, the FedEx truck just delivered my fuel pump so I can get started on that (still waiting on the strainer).

Fog light reinstalled and working, right headlight lens restored, gray bumper paint to follow:

Sans running boards:

Update 5:00 PM
Drilled out the 4 banana rivets holding in the left rear window regulator. Quitting for today. I don't want to spend the evening aggravated and bleeding. I'll look at it again tomorrow.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
The postman just delivered my FP strainer, so I'll probably get the tank back in the truck and get it running tonight, or by tomorrow morning. Once it's running I'll take it around the block and if it's running/driving okay, dump out that nasty engine oil. Besides the engine and trans working properly, my other big concern right now is whether the A/C will work since I put the high pressure switch back together. No telling, but it's about time for something to go my way on this truck.

More updates to follow.

 

[koda2000]

Update: 11:00 PM
It's alive!!! Got the fuel pump into the tank and the tank reinstalled. Put in some gas, primed the pump 5 times and it fired right off.

The Good News:
Engine runs and idles great. Smooth, quite and very powerful for a V6. Much more powerful than my old '01 XLT, or my '97 Sport SOHC's.

The transmission works perfectly.

The A/C is working since I stuck the broken top back on the high pressure switch. I'm going to glue it back on permanently.

The truck rides pretty well, of course the front end-links are shot (original OE's) but thanks to chefduane, I have a spare pair ready to go.

All the gauges and idiot lights work and all the lights work. All the dash controls work, radio works, cruise control works, horn works, door switches and interior lights work, brakes work, but shoes/pads need replacing.

The Not So Good News (but I'm not freaking out yet):
Went for a test drive around my neighborhood. Went about 2 miles and checked the gauges. Everything was fine. Then the CHECK GAGE light came on. I looked at the TEMP gauge and it had spiked to full hot. I pulled over and was about to turn the engine off to let it cool and the gauge almost immediately dropped back to NORMAL, so I'm thinking a sticking thermostat. I turned around and headed home and it didn't spike again. This is confirming my guess about a bad thermostat. We'll see, but If it was anything else the temp wouldn't return to NORMAL so quickly.

When I got to my driveway, I got out to shut my the gate. When I got back in the CHECK GAGE light was on again. This time it was the oil pressure gauge that read zero. I'm hoping this is a bad oil pressure switch, the filthy oil, or maybe a clogged pickup screen. If I put it in neutral and increase the RPM the gauge pops back up to normal. I'll have to do some checking on this one, but as the engine is (and remained) quiet, I hoping for the best. I figure, as what took the truck out of service was the fuel pump, if the PO had been driving it and w/out oil pressure he would have ruined the engine pretty quickly. Fingers crossed it's not something serious.

I plan to warm it up and drain the nasty oil tomorrow first thing. Then I'll get some Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and a Motorcraft oil filter on it. I think I'll use 10w30 instead of 5w30. I'll pick up a new thermostat too.

 

[01STrunner]

 

[koda2000]

This Morning's Update:
Got the truck up on the ramps this morning, ran the engine at various RPM's for a full 30 mins. It never spiked the temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge never dropped. That's encouraging news. I then drained the oil (I hesitate to call it oil, looked more like coal tar) and removed the oil filter, which I'm sure has been in bypass mode for a long time. The engine remained quite, although I think the alternator is a bit noisy. It charges okay (13.6 volts at the battery while running with the A/C on full blast).

I am super pleased that the A/C works. It's really hard to live in GA in the summer w/out good working A/C and it will really bring down the resale value.

As the oil was so nasty, I think I'm going to put in some cheap oil and run it for a few 100miles, as a flush, before I put in expensive oil. AZ has a sale on Mobil Super 5000 for $16.99 for the 5-Qt jug. So I'll going to go out and pick that up along with an oil filter and t-stat.

I also removed the bed cover and extender so I could clean out the bed. Apparently the PO was a tile installer. I took shovels full of sand, broken tile and junk out of the bed. Unfortunately he spilled lots of mastic on the bed liner. Anyone have a suggestions on how/if it can be cleaned off? Do you think I can cover it with spray/roll on bed liner?

After the oil I think I'll clean the engine and engine compartment. That will make it easier to do whatever I have to do in there. Then the t-stat change (with a cooling system flush).

Still tons of stuff to fix, but I'm feeling more optimistic today.

Update: 4:00 PM
Changed the oil and filter. I can honestly say I have NEVER see oil that dirty. It was absolutely black! Put in AZ's finest 10w30 and an new Motorcraft filter and took it for a 20 mile test ride. It never lost oil pressure and the temp stayed right in the middle of the gauge (as it should), I got the new t-stat, 2 gallons of 100% antifreeze and flush. They didn't have the t-stat O-ring in stock, so I'll have to get that tomorrow along with some distilled water.

Oh, by the way... 1/8" plywood makes a lousy exhaust system heat shield (in case you were wondering).

 

[Kjhadfield]

I just did a coolant flush on mines for the 1st time (didn't change the t stat thou). I ended up just flushing the radiator and filled with distilled and the flush- ran it a week (low miles) and then added another flush for the 10 min clean. Drained the radiator (adding distilled every time) work it in the system- did this 4 times till I was happy with what was coming out. I didn't feel like messing with the flush kit/tap water/ or taking out tstat (but I made sure it was open and circulation threw).

The gunk degreaser works great with a low pressure spray for spray down. Stay away from the gunk shine, I used it and it looked great right away but it's silicon based and like tire shine everything sticks to it so it looks dirty and is sticky. From now on I'll use my water based dressing for the tires to shine the engine. This stuff is great- doesn't sticky the tires are fling off, nice shine (can dilute for low or high shine), and lasts a good while + they say water based is better than silicone and the like.

When I checked on spraying the bed, always came back as a bad idea because of the material. I'd say just clean it up as good as you can and after all it's a truck bed. You said liner you mean bed mat or the actual bed (not really a liner, at least the drop ins for other trucks)

 

[koda2000]

I just did a coolant flush on mines for the 1st time (didn't change the t stat thou). I ended up just flushing the radiator and filled with distilled and the flush- ran it a week (low miles) and then added another flush for the 10 min clean. Drained the radiator (adding distilled every time) work it in the system- did this 4 times till I was happy with what was coming out. I didn't feel like messing with the flush kit/tap water/ or taking out tstat (but I made sure it was open and circulation threw).

The gunk degreaser works great with a low pressure spray for spray down. Stay away from the gunk shine, I used it and it looked great right away but it's silicon based and like tire shine everything sticks to it so it looks dirty and is sticky. From now on I'll use my water based dressing for the tires to shine the engine. This stuff is great- doesn't sticky the tires are fling off, nice shine (can dilute for low or high shine), and lasts a good while + they say water based is better than silicone and the like.

When I checked on spraying the bed, always came back as a bad idea because of the material. I'd say just clean it up as good as you can and after all it's a truck bed. You said liner you mean bed mat or the actual bed (not really a liner, at least the drop ins for other trucks)

I meant the actual bed. I'm getting a small bottle of Krud Kutter tomorrow and see it that will touch the mastic. I just don't want it to look like an abused work truck. Which it was.

As far as cleaning the engine compartment, I'm just looking to get rid of all the mud dust and grease. I don't want anything to be shiny. I had excellent results using my Purple Power on my '97 Sport engine. It came out clean but not looking like someone tried to detail the engine compartment. That's what I'm looking for. I would like to find a plastic and tire dressing product that will last longer that the first rain storm though.

 

[N2FORD]

I have a spare bed in pretty good shape with one bad bed side. I could sell you the black main part of the bed and we could swap your bed sides. They unbolt and would be a fairly easy swap. I am near Knoxville, TN, where in Georgia are you?

 

[koda2000]

I have a spare bed in pretty good shape with one bad bed side. I could sell you the black main part of the bed and we could swap your bed sides. They unbolt and would be a fairly easy swap. I am near Knoxville, TN, where in Georgia are you?

Maybe. I could also use a replacement for my driver's side bed side. Your good one good side wouldn't be the driver's side would it? My has a pretty nasty crack in it. I was thinking of having it fixed, but probably easier to replace it and have it painted (unless yours happens to be silver... LOL). What would you want for the black main part.

I'm in the north GA mountains, not far from the TN boarder, but a bit of a hike to Knoxville. Doable though.

PM me and we can discuss.

 

[delexploder]

Awesome koda love the progress

 

[koda2000]

Today's Update:
1. Removed and cleaned the throttle body (it was positively gross).
2. Removed and cleaned the IAC (it wasn't too dirty).
3. Removed and cleaned the MAF. Checked the air filter (it had about a 1/4lb of dirt in it).
4. Drained radiator. Flushed out the gross coolant reservoir. Found the lower rad hose clamp at the radiator was barely on where it needed to be. IDK why it hadn't blown off.
5. Replaced the sometimes sticking thermostat and it's O-ring.
6. Filled the cooling system with water and added Prestone 3-day flush treatment.
7. Removed the front tow hooks (anybody need 2 w/mounting hardware? PM me).
8. Went to the parts store for front brake pads and rear shoes. Turned out I don't need front pads, but will be trading them in for rear axle seals (sigh...).
9. Replaced cargo lights and burnt out HMSL with LED bulbs I had laying around.
10. Bought 4 new 255/70R16 tires and got them mounted/balanced.
11. Found a local guy that can replace my cracked windshield.
12. Found out that both my rear tires (the old and new ones) although the correct size on stock wheels, rub slightly on the back edges of the rear inner fenders. Weird, but easily fixed. That's one noise I wont have to chase any further. I was afraid it was the rear diff.
13. Drove the truck 60 miles to allow cooling system flush treatment to start working and test for new problems (found, while the A/C works great, I have no heat). I suspect the blend door is not working - great.
14. Removed wiper arms, cleaned and painted them w/low-gloss black VHT.

So, a full day of fun. Now I'm looking forward to a trans service (to replace the brown fluid), that damn PCV valve and the rear axle seals.

 

[OffTrac]

Wow, I took out the trash on my way to work and thought I was productive.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Sounds like you're making great progress. Congrats! I've always wanted a Trac but up here in the Northeast they're either trashed or super expensive, but I'm still searching. Been pretty crazy at work and just got a chance to look at your list. I'll PM you but I think I have most of it.

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like you're making great progress. Congrats! I've always wanted a Trac but up here in the Northeast they're either trashed or super expensive, but I'm still searching. Been pretty crazy at work and just got a chance to look at your list. I'll PM you but I think I have most of it.

Thanks, I get a bit possessed when I get a new vehicle to fix up.

I was born in the Northeast and spent most of my life in CT. Vehicles don't last long with the salted roads. My ST, being a GA truck all its life, looks like a CT vehicle that's maybe a year old underneath. The problems down here are sun damage related, but I find Ford interiors hold up pretty well as compared to GM and Chrysler vehicles I've owned.

 

[koda2000]

Today's minimal progress:
Made an appointment to have my windshield replaced next Wed.
Replaced the filthy air filter.
Went to Walmart to buy a 2 gal jug of Purple Power.
Fixed and reinstalled the speaker the PO ripped the plug off of.
Went to DMV to renew some registrations.
Cut the back of the rear inner fenders so they don't rub on the tires.
Washed the roof (only part that hadn't received at least a sponge bath).
Straighten/leveled the rear bumper.
Repaired the left inner fender to bumper retainers.
Used the ST to pull my trailer to get hay for our horses.

Later this evening I may remove the PCV valve (now that swhawaii showed me where to find it). I'm glad I asked, I never would have found it otherwise.

 

[koda2000]

Well, I started looking at the PCV valve after dinner, stuck my hand back there and it came out black with grime. I decided I'm tired of working on this filthy engine, so instead I sprayed the whole engine compartment down with 2 quarts of Purple Power. Swished it all around with a large paint brush, let it sit a while, sprayed it again and then hosed it all off. Then I used my shop air to blow away all the excess water, started the engine and let it run for about 20 mins. It came out really clean. No discoloration to rubber or plastic. No paint damage. Now I can work on this thing w/out getting my hands dirty. By the weekend I should be ready to drain the flush out of the cooling system and finish that part up. I'll pull the PCV tomorrow. What a weird setup. Does the coolant line wrapped around it cool it? If so, why?

Filthy Engine:

Clean Engine:

 

[Kjhadfield]

What's a windshield running you? Last I checked, was quoted 230+, yikes.
Was the rear bumper as easy as they say- using floor jack to lift/level after you loosen (2 bolts per side)? I need to do this, it's only minimal but it bothers me.

Nice clean engine, how much did you dilute? Would be a cheaper solution to that gunk cleaner I have been using.