New user/ 97 X XLT SOHC

[drdoom]

Friend, don't ignore that flashing TCIL for too long...ended pretty bad for me. Best wishes.

 

[smittyzz]

You mean the od light? What should I check for?

 

[drdoom]

Pull the trouble codes from the transmission using a pro level scanner. The codes will give you a better picture of what the cause may be.

 

[smittyzz]

Will do that as soon as I can, right now no gas and suspended license, just got three tickets Friday too
But I got a fix for my drivers side door not unlocking, I'm going to run a wire from the passenger door unlock wire that works and connect it to the driver side wire, then it works so back to wiring lol

 

[smittyzz]

Little update, got my window back in place and working again, the fuel gauge seems to be working good now, every once in a while it acts up but reads again, changed two bulbs on cluster so could see speed, made it so I could open back window from outside using a coat hanger as a pull down handle thru the original handle hole, and put a little more tranny fluid in, now it shifts hard into reverse.. But the od lights came on this morning to work and went away on way to advanced by its self, so we will see how that does and I pulled 4 codes
1451 0113 0122 0453
Any help would be great
Also cut the rear wiper hose to see if it was plugged and found out it wasn't so now I gotta get that sealed back up and check the relay
All that's really left on her is the inner back handles hatch handle CV joint front head lamp wiring oil change and the codes, and some muffler work, been working on her three weeks straight everyday after work

 

[RickOTR]

As for the rear wiper not squirting, it may be the end nozzle that's attached next to the high mount brake lights. That's what was wrong with mine, all clogged. Could not clean it so I replaced it. All's well again

 

[smittyzz]

Mine was a relay, I switched them around and it started working.. Before it wouldn't pump when button pressed now it does.
So more updates.. Sending unit is working on and off. Hitting bumps will trigger it working or not working... Bad ground or bad unit?
Also got dashboard cluster lit good now, just gotta figure out interior lighting issue so I can see when I get in at night, an oil Chang and she should be purring, then the CV joint the codes and the front end thudding and shell be done

 

[Dave 1955]

Check the sway bar end links for front clunking.

 

[smittyzz]

Ahhh, good idea! Didn't think of that,
BTW is there a way or something to turn the dome lights on so when a doors opened they come on? My door ajar is always on but I still wanna figure this out

 

[no1plantman]

Agreed with the SOHC, banging my head into the wall as I type. TC nitemares, this past weekend. Although the old lady does have 220K+ on her.

the V6 SOHC engine wouldn't be my first choice (or my second choice) but as long as the timing chains are quite, it's not a horrible choice for $900.

i don't know about roasting tires. the SOHC engine makes decent power, but you're driving a vehicle that weighs in at about 5,000 lbs with tall tires.

locking and window switch problems are often chased down to the loom in the driver's door jam and/or the loom running under the carpet, near the door sill in the rear.

does the CEL light during the key-on bulb test? it sounds like you should have some codes. note: it can take up to 500 miles for some codes to re-appear if the PO had clearded them before you bought it. at any rate, i'd start with a tune up (new plugs/wires/filters/PCV valve/oil change/clean the MAF/TB/IAC) and see what improves.

you're lucky you don't have the RFID keys or you'd be looking at a pretty big number for a replacement(s).

CV axles, ball joints and other suspension parts aren't too big of a deal to replace on these trucks. figure on somewhere around $400 for premium replacement parts, less for service grade. just keep in mind that every $1 you have to spend to replace parts makes the $900 purchase price increase, but if you're capable of doing the repairs yourself you'll know what you have when you're done (and the satisfaction that comes from having done the work yourself).

You're probably correct about needing to replace the fuel gauge sending unit, in the fuel tank, to get the gauge to work.

 

[no1plantman]

after getting three tickets and having your DL suspended, you would think that "roasting" your tires would be the last thing to be worried about. lol

Will do that as soon as I can, right now no gas and suspended license, just got three tickets Friday too
But I got a fix for my drivers side door not unlocking, I'm going to run a wire from the passenger door unlock wire that works and connect it to the driver side wire, then it works so back to wiring lol

 

[smittyzz]

after getting three tickets and having your DL suspended, you would think that "roasting" your tires would be the last thing to be worried about. lol

wasnt worried about it and am still not, you misread me sir, it didnt have the power it should have, it ran like crap lagged almost stalled all the time at idkle and skipped and had major hesitation untill 3000 rpm.
that was all fixed with new plugs, no more lag or hesitation, takes off and goes like it should now. three of the 6 plugs i could have fit a quarter in the gap and prolly had a little space after....

and update..
checked sway bar like was told, to find my drivers sway bar end link was broken off and not connected, and when i was trying to get the old one out it snapped lol this thing didnt have crap for new parts in it when i got it... its still got original ball joints that are good with 187509 miles on them.

will reply with a full list of whats been done and needs to be done, and maybe pictures!

 

[smittyzz]

Agreed with the SOHC, banging my head into the wall as I type. TC nitemares, this past weekend. Although the old lady does have 220K+ on her.

well im thankful that mine has no rattling at all, and im going to do my best to prevent it, she needs an oil change bad, as the oils black, and that should smooth out the idle, it idles decent but a little jumpy. i only paid 900 and ive put prolly 80 hours worth of work into it the last 4 weeks, i love working on it and fixing it little by little, makes me feel good

 

[Dave 1955]

well im thankful that mine has no rattling at all, and im going to do my best to prevent it, she needs an oil change bad, as the oils black, and that should smooth out the idle, it idles decent but a little jumpy. i only paid 900 and ive put prolly 80 hours worth of work into it the last 4 weeks, i love working on it and fixing it little by little, makes me feel good

That's a great thing right there!
I'm 57 right now and some of my best times were from working on cars.
I still like it.
Trust me I could have bought way newer then the 2001 I just picked up in march,and I still have my old 95 explorer on the road yet also..work beater.
I have done ball joints..wheel bearings..hubs..all kinds of stuff on it over the last 7 years..still runs great.
So I bought the 01 because at least I have experience working on them,had a 92 way back also.
Keep plugging away at it..it will help keep you out of trouble! lol

 

[jimbalaya]

window motor turns 'down' only

regarding locks and windows: the wires tend to eventually break in the driver's door jam area because of the door being opened and closed a ga-zillion times. there is also a wire connector under the rear carpet which gets corroded and/or comes apart. both of these problems are very common on older gen II's..

My window motor on rear passenger side only turns in one direction - down (using either the switch at that window or multi-switch from the driver's door). I removed the motor from the regulator and isolated it to try to pinpoint the problem. got a new motor but same symptom - gear turns only one direction - 'down'. So then got a new switch, thinking the contacts on the old switch were bad. No use - same problem. That seems to leave the wiring. I looked for corrosion where the switch (on the rear passenger door) contacts connect to the switch harness thing and even filed all the female connectors to ensure a good contact from the new switch to the existing wire harness.

Any ideas on what to try next? I read the great tips in this thread about checking the wires in the driver's side door jamb and under the carpet, but do the wires from the rear passenger windows run all the way back through those areas to make the circuit from the rear passenger window switch to the window motor?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. this is my first post after reading this forum for several days.

 

[smittyzz]

My window motor on rear passenger side only turns in one direction - down (using either the switch at that window or multi-switch from the driver's door). I removed the motor from the regulator and isolated it to try to pinpoint the problem. got a new motor but same symptom - gear turns only one direction - 'down'. So then got a new switch, thinking the contacts on the old switch were bad. No use - same problem. That seems to leave the wiring. I looked for corrosion where the switch (on the rear passenger door) contacts connect to the switch harness thing and even filed all the female connectors to ensure a good contact from the new switch to the existing wire harness.

Any ideas on what to try next? I read the great tips in this thread about checking the wires in the driver's side door jamb and under the carpet, but do the wires from the rear passenger windows run all the way back through those areas to make the circuit from the rear passenger window switch to the window motor?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. this is my first post after reading this forum for several days.

What I always do in a situation like this is get some old speaker wire and bypass the original wiring, it will definitely tell you with out a doubt if its wiring somewhere in the vehicle, Ive rewired 2 speakers and my drivers unlock switch due to bad wiring for the speakers and bypassed the relay for the drivers unlock, and got my keyless entry working too, I'll have a list after work

 

[smittyzz]

Full list:
Not in order
Reseated and secured drivers window with plastic weld adhesive stuff
Got keyless entry working
Did blend door trick but account needs recharging
Passenger tie rod end
Drivers sway bar link
Plugs all the way around
New headlight
Rewired passenger speaker straight to aftermarket stereo(faded +3 to right to even it out because drivers are still going through stock amp, might just wire those straight to the stereo too)
Wired aftermarket stereo without a harness(cut stock connectors off)
Changed 2 bulbs in dash and got the dash lit up good, used old head light as a dome light. Low beam was out so I have a high beam lighting up the inside pretty bright
Wired drivers unlock switch to passengers because I'm pretty sure the drivers relay is bad
swapped relays around and got back wiper fluid button to run the pump
Zip tied my outer rocker plastic things up so there tight because my rockers are rusting out
Made a pull down handle to open the back glass from the outside because there's no handle.


Needed:
Not in order
Oil change bad(bought black)
Swag bar bushings
Muffler work
Rocker skins
Inner back door handles for back
Inner drivers back door mechanism(can't lock drivers side back door because its seased.
Figure out if its a bad ground or a bad sending unit(reads when off, sometimes reads when on, but bumps can turn it off and on)
Address my 4 trouble codes
Need to figure out why the drivers door ajar ensor isn't working(there is a yellow unconnected wire in there that looks like it could have something to do with it but I haven't done much searching around or anything for that yet
Needs shocks all the way around
Wanna put some fog lights in the fog light spot
A dress front end thudding noise when hitting bumps
Under garage needs pressure washing or sandblasting

I only paid 900 for it, and Ive got about 80 hours worth of work into her.
I'm honestly feeling pretty happy about her right now
But on a good note, I'm on a commercial account at advanced auto and get great discounts
Got my new(11.99) head light and my new Moog(12.99 sway bar end link for 15.50 for both.
If anyone would like pictures I would gladly take some to share

 

[jimbalaya]

koda2000 is a genius

My window motor on rear passenger side only turns in one direction - down (using either the switch at that window or multi-switch from the driver's door). I removed the motor from the regulator and isolated it to try to pinpoint the problem. got a new motor but same symptom - gear turns only one direction - 'down'. So then got a new switch, thinking the contacts on the old switch were bad. No use - same problem. That seems to leave the wiring. I looked for corrosion where the switch (on the rear passenger door) contacts connect to the switch harness thing and even filed all the female connectors to ensure a good contact from the new switch to the existing wire harness.

Any ideas on what to try next? I read the great tips in this thread about checking the wires in the driver's side door jamb and under the carpet, but do the wires from the rear passenger windows run all the way back through those areas to make the circuit from the rear passenger window switch to the window motor?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. this is my first post after reading this forum for several days.

Update to my previous post: Koda2000 was absolutely right! One of the wires in the drivers-side door jamb was broken. at first I did not see it, but then manipulated the rubber boot thing and saw it. I have been racking my brains out trying to diagnose was I thought was a window motor and then a window switch problem - only to find a wiring problem. Koda2000, thanks so much for your great tip, which finally solved the mystery and saved me lots of hours of more troubleshooting [and more $$]. I will include a photo but not sure how to do it as I am brand new to this forum.