Newbie story/questions

[DeRocha]

...Now, I know of one more switch, when you reach down between the drivers seat and the centre console. When the switch is flipped with the motor running, you can hear it being starved of fuel and stall. Put the switch back into its original position, apply some extra gas and it'll start just fine. I know it's probably (99%) something someone installed himself, but am curious as to why...

It sounds like a manual fuel pump cut off switch (I have one for anti theft reasons). Yours was most likely installed for a constantly running fuel pump. If there was an issue with the ECC or the fuel pump relay getting stuck ON the fuel pump would keep running after the key was removed which would drain the battery over time. If the previous owner didn't know the cause or have the time to trouble shoot adding a simple switch would have solved the issue.

Does the fuel pump keep running after the key is removed? If yes then the ECC or Fuel pump relay has an issue. If NO, perhaps the previous owner fixed the problem and the fuel pump switch is no longer needed.

 

[RobertFord]

The battery doesn't appear drained as it still starts after a week or so of standing still. So either it was what you said and the problem is fixed, or it's some anti-theft device... hmm...

When you mention vibration, does it feel like it's coming from under your seat at all?

I did the checks like you have stated, but still had a bad vibration, almost annoying/ scary to drive and I replaced my u joints in October, my vibration went away. This was no easy task getting out u joints that'd been in since December 1991, but I got it done.

I'm not sure if the vibration is coming from somewhere other than the steering wheel. I'm getting the front end alligned next week as I haven't done so since purchasing the explorer and it pulls quite somewhat on the steering wheel. I hope there might be some excessive toe in/out generating at least some of the vibration.

Perhaps it's also worth noting that however the vibration always occurs at the same speed, it sometimes goes away for a bit, but then comes back. I've tried to see if it's linked to the RPMs, but it doesn't seem to be.

I guess, after that, I have little option but to replace the u-joints after all...

 

[RobertFord]

Just had the front end aligned, fingers crossed this works. I'll know tomorrow

 

[RobertFord]

Well, that didn't help... On to the shocks it is!

 

[mr cribb]

Well, that didn't help... On to the shocks it is!

skip the shocks for a moment and do the u-joints.... I re-read your first post, and you said 55-60 is when it went crazy.... that's EXACTLY when mine would shake and vibrate, it'd go away at 65mph.

Since replacing the u-joints there's no more vibration on mine, granted my tires and factory shocks are well beyond used, but it's a little better to drive now.

I don't know how much it'll cost you in the Netherlands for u-joints, but I know it's a lot cheaper than shocks.

 

[92exp4x4]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Explorer purchase!

Very Interesting to see an American spec Explorer in Europe. I would love to import a euro spec Ex to the US some day.

Do you see many EXs over there? I'm sure they are not very common.

Either way your truck needs shocks, I would do that first and then see what happens. Unless you took the driveshaft out to make sure the u-joints were not sticking, (you can then move them beyond thier normal range when its out). I would not yet condemn them. Also check out the suspention bushings really well, if the wheels have been bouncing around for a long time because of bad shocks then chances are the radius arm bushings and other front end bushings have suffered. Just remember it takes alot of force to bend a wheel. What had to happen to damage that wheel you had fixed. That action could have done other damage you have yet to find.

Just for info: a Euro explorer, similar in appearence to our Limited Edition. (2nd pic, one of my personal trucks, a '94 Limited)

 

[RobertFord]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Explorer purchase!

Very Interesting to see an American spec Explorer in Europe. I would love to import a euro spec Ex to the US some day.

Do you see many EXs over there? I'm sure they are not very common.

Either way your truck needs shocks, I would do that first and then see what happens. Unless you took the driveshaft out to make sure the u-joints were not sticking, (you can then move them beyond thier normal range when its out). I would not yet condemn them. Also check out the suspention bushings really well, if the wheels have been bouncing around for a long time because of bad shocks then chances are the radius arm bushings and other front end bushings have suffered. Just remember it takes alot of force to bend a wheel. What had to happen to damage that wheel you had fixed. That action could have done other damage you have yet to find.

Just for info: a Euro explorer, similar in appearence to our Limited Edition. (2nd pic, one of my personal trucks, a '94 Limited)

You are right, the truck needs shocks so it's the most sensible thing to do. I checked the entire front end suspension a few weeks back when I had the opportunity to put it on a bridge (is that the right term?) and inspect the underside. Everything seems in very good condition with no play at all. Bushings seemed okay, but perhaps they need replacement when I get around to doing the shocks.

As for the Euro/US question. I'm not too sure mine is a european version (perhaps there's something obvious on the photo that gives it away) as I believe it was imported from the US only in '96 or so. How do the european versions differ from the US ones? Perhaps I can tell.

I did buy a new air filter, but haven't had the time to put it in yet (I know, two second task, but still) in hopes of increasing my gas milage a little bit with little effort (right now it does 1 gallon for 16 miles...)

 

[Common Cents]

<snip>
That kind of narrows it down a lot, but the vibration is still there. The shopowner adviced I replace the front shocks as they seem worn out. I guess having the front tires aligned will be my next step and otherwise I'll probably have to cough up for some new shocks

Shocks by themselves don't cause a vibration, but bad shocks will allow any vibration or shake to continue shaking and tend to amplify the problem. New shocks might mask the problem for a little while. But eventually the shaking will wear the new shocks, and the shake/vibration will return.

I'm going to ask the same question that Mr. Cribb asked, but in a different way. How do you feel the shake/vibration? Is the the steering wheel shaking as you drive it? Or do you feel it through the seat of your pants?

Drive line shakes and rear axle shakes are things you usually feel through the seat. steering shakes and front axle shakes usuallly present through the steering wheel.

Potential causes for front axle/steering shakes:

• Front wheel bearings
• Ball joints
• Tie rod ends
• Traction beam/I-beam bushings
• Radius arm bushings

The best test is to jack up a front corner, use a jack stand to support the vehicle. With the wheel still installed, grab the top and bottom of the wheel firmly. First, push and pull the entire wheel in and out. If it has any plan and "clunk" in and out, the wheel bearings need to be inspected and repacked, or possibly replaced. Continue testing anyway.

Still grabbing the wheel/tire at the top and bottom edges, forcefully try to "rock" the wheel. Push the top in and pull the bottom out at the same time. Then switch to pulling the top out and pushing the bottom in. Rock it back and forth. Is there play? Does it "clunk" and rock back and forth? Possible causes: wheel bearings and/or ball joints. If possible, look at it from the back side as you rock the wheel. Look in the ball joint area. If there is movement there when you rock the wheel, the ball joints are suspect. If there is no play at the ball joints, then the weare is most likely the wheel bearings.

Finally, grabbing the wheel/tire at the front and rear edges, forcefully try to "rock" the wheel. Push in at the front and pull out at the back, then switch to pulling out the front and pushing in the back. Rock it back and forth. Does it "clunk" and rock back and forth? Possible causes: Wheel bearings and/or tie rod ends. Again, repeat the test looking at the tie rod end where it attaches to the steering knuckle/suspension at the wheel end. If there is play at that area, the outer tie rod end is worn. If there is movement there (the knuckle is turning), there could also be play at the inner tie rod end or in the steering itself.

Obviously, repeat the tests/inspections at the other wheel. It's actually best to have only one wheel jacked up and unloaded a a time for testing. Especially when rocking the wheel front to back. Worn tie rod ends on one side will allow the other side to rock and clunk, too. That's just one of the reasons it's best to repace tie rod ends as full sets. When one of them has worn out, they are all suspect.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[mr cribb]

I did buy a new air filter, but haven't had the time to put it in yet (I know, two second task, but still) in hopes of increasing my gas milage a little bit with little effort (right now it does 1 gallon for 16 miles...)

Well you're right on point w/ fuel mileage. It doesn't get any better... city 16-18 highway 18-22

With my 5 speed model I have noticed 17.5 city and 21.5 highway(these are my best numbers). My average is right around 16.5 city and around 20 highway (I'm not driving it on the highway much anymore)

 

[RobertFord]

Shocks by themselves don't cause a vibration, but bad shocks will allow any vibration or shake to continue shaking and tend to amplify the problem. New shocks might mask the problem for a little while. But eventually the shaking will wear the new shocks, and the shake/vibration will return.

I'm going to ask the same question that Mr. Cribb asked, but in a different way. How do you feel the shake/vibration? Is the the steering wheel shaking as you drive it? Or do you feel it through the seat of your pants?

Both the steering wheel and the seat.

Drive line shakes and rear axle shakes are things you usually feel through the seat. steering shakes and front axle shakes usuallly present through the steering wheel.

<snip>

Obviously, repeat the tests/inspections at the other wheel. It's actually best to have only one wheel jacked up and unloaded a a time for testing. Especially when rocking the wheel front to back. Worn tie rod ends on one side will allow the other side to rock and clunk, too. That's just one of the reasons it's best to repace tie rod ends as full sets. When one of them has worn out, they are all suspect.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

I did the test as you described it recently, then there was no play at all. So that would rule out wheel bearings and tie-rod ends, right? Only 'but' is that all four wheels were off the ground at that time, so I'll have to repeat the test with one on the ground, to be certain.

How would I check the driveline? When the truck was up on the bridge, I went underneath it and looked for play in the joints. There was none, but I guess it could be an imbalance in the driveshaft? I guess the only way to be sure is to have a garage look at that, right?

 

[mr cribb]

Both the steering wheel and the seat.


I did the test as you described it recently, then there was no play at all. So that would rule out wheel bearings and tie-rod ends, right? Only 'but' is that all four wheels were off the ground at that time, so I'll have to repeat the test with one on the ground, to be certain.

How would I check the driveline? When the truck was up on the bridge, I went underneath it and looked for play in the joints. There was none, but I guess it could be an imbalance in the driveshaft? I guess the only way to be sure is to have a garage look at that, right?

If you're feeling it in the seat then I'd replace the u-joints.... that was where mine vibrated. My old joints passed the visual and rotating of the driveshaft by hand (meaning no freeplay).

 

[RobertFord]

Now I'm in a bit of a dilemma. Common Cents mentioned the driveline, whilst you advice on the U-Joints. Of course I'm not debating either of you are wrong, it just leaves me with not knowing what course of action to take.

If it helps any, last saturday it didn't vibrate -at all- Of course, last sunday it was back with a vengeance I hadn't driven it for three weeks prior to last saturday, if that helps any.

I appreciate all your help a great deal!

 

[mr cribb]

Now I'm in a bit of a dilemma. Common Cents mentioned the driveline, whilst you advice on the U-Joints. Of course I'm not debating either of you are wrong, it just leaves me with not knowing what course of action to take.

If it helps any, last saturday it didn't vibrate -at all- Of course, last sunday it was back with a vengeance I hadn't driven it for three weeks prior to last saturday, if that helps any.

I appreciate all your help a great deal!

I would lean towards the u-joints. I would bet that they are factory, and not knowing your mileage on your truck, I would still bet they're close to 20yrs old regardless of mileage. I started noticing a "squeaking" in reverse around 198k miles. I finally swapped my u-joints at around 205k. This was after it felt like the driveshaft was going to vibrate itself from under the truck.

Not knowing what u-joints would cost you where you live, it still can't hurt to change them out to see if that doesn't eliminate your issue.

 

[Common Cents]

Now I'm in a bit of a dilemma. Common Cents mentioned the driveline, whilst you advice on the U-Joints. Of course I'm not debating either of you are wrong, it just leaves me with not knowing what course of action to take.

If it helps any, last saturday it didn't vibrate -at all- Of course, last sunday it was back with a vengeance I hadn't driven it for three weeks prior to last saturday, if that helps any.

I appreciate all your help a great deal!

Sorry, I've been traveling, so I'm a bit slow responding.

U-joints are a possibility. There are other driveline things that can make for vibrations or shakes.

• Bad engine mounts
• bad transmission/transfer case mounts
• Excessively worn rear springs or axle shifted on the rear springs
• twisted drive shaft(s)

Anything that causes the U-joint(s) attached to the transmission to be misalligned with the U-joint attached to the rear diff (or front diff) can cause a shake/vibration from the drive train. It's critical that both U-joint "crosses" are parallel to each other and aligned. If the angles change at either end due to worn parts (or improper repair/installation), it can cause a bad shake.

If you don't have play, don't worry about having only one wheel up for the front tests I mentioned before. Mostly, that's so that you are certain which side has the play if you find problems.

I'm actually very surprised there isn't some play in the front wheel bearings and ball joints. Those are "wear parts" and nearly every older Explorer or Ranger I've looked at has had serious wear on those parts. It's very rare, unless someone is very diligent with their "routine maintenance" to see one of these vehicles without worn out parts in the front bearings and ball joints.

Good luck with the diagnostics and I hope you find the issue(s).

 

[mr cribb]

Sorry, I've been traveling, so I'm a bit slow responding.

U-joints are a possibility. There are other driveline things that can make for vibrations or shakes.

• Bad engine mounts
• bad transmission/transfer case mounts
• Excessively worn rear springs or axle shifted on the rear springs
• twisted drive shaft(s)

Anything that causes the U-joint(s) attached to the transmission to be misalligned with the U-joint attached to the rear diff (or front diff) can cause a shake/vibration from the drive train. It's critical that both U-joint "crosses" are parallel to each other and aligned. If the angles change at either end due to worn parts (or improper repair/installation), it can cause a bad shake.

If you don't have play, don't worry about having only one wheel up for the front tests I mentioned before. Mostly, that's so that you are certain which side has the play if you find problems.

I'm actually very surprised there isn't some play in the front wheel bearings and ball joints. Those are "wear parts" and nearly every older Explorer or Ranger I've looked at has had serious wear on those parts. It's very rare, unless someone is very diligent with their "routine maintenance" to see one of these vehicles without worn out parts in the front bearings and ball joints.

Good luck with the diagnostics and I hope you find the issue(s).

I should add that I changed out the transmission mount first before I tackled the u-joints. My transmission mount was broken. This only solved maybe 5% of vibration issues. Changing the u-joints took care of the rest.

 

[Common Cents]

I should add that I changed out the transmission mount first before I tackled the u-joints. My transmission mount was broken. This only solved maybe 5% of vibration issues. Changing the u-joints took care of the rest.

That's often one of those "downward spiral" conditions. Bad mounts cause a vibration or shake. The vibration or shake causes other parts to wear. Then, when you fix the mount, the worn out parts continue to shake.

It's also why it's a good idea to inspect and repair everything that could be causing the shake when you're going after shakes and vibrations. If you fix the downstream symptoms but leave the cause, even if it's only got a small vibration after you fix the symptoms, the origina cause will wear wear out your brand new parts in a hurry.

 

[RobertFord]

Well, this is odd. I had to do quite some driving this weekend, and the vibration has disappeard for about 95% of the time. Sometimes it comes back, but never for long.

Could it be that after having my front end aligned, my front tires had to reshape a bit? Other than that, and the power-steering fluid, little has changed on the ex.

Odd.. and not quite satisfied yet.

 

[mr cribb]

Well, this is odd. I had to do quite some driving this weekend, and the vibration has disappeard for about 95% of the time. Sometimes it comes back, but never for long.

Could it be that after having my front end aligned, my front tires had to reshape a bit? Other than that, and the power-steering fluid, little has changed on the ex.

Odd.. and not quite satisfied yet.

Mine did the same... it'd come and go (vibration) then it came back with a vengeance, that's when I replaced the parts I mentioned above in an earlier post.

 

[RobertFord]

Last weekend I finally got around to doing some small stuff on the Explorer. I cleaned the lifgate locks, but the mechanism still refuses to cooperate from time to time, so I guess I need to have a look at the internals soon.

I did an oil change, the old filter was a total b*tch to get off, so I guess it hadn't been changed in quite a while. Also the oil was pitchblack, so it was due time.

The driveshaft showed no evidence of any free movement in any direction, but as the vibration is gone for the moment, I'll just keep an eye on it. Should it come back, I'll deal with it hard and swiftly.

The fuel filter was on my todo list, but as I did not have the fuel line disconnection tool, and have read the horror stories, I'll wait until I find one. (Seems hard to come by around here)

Is there any way to replace the multi-function switch witout having to remove the steering wheel? I tried moving the steering wheel in the highest position (using the tilt swift lever, or 5" rod thingie ) but it wouldn't come off. As I don't necessarily feel like pulling the steering wheel, I was hoping there's a better way.

I pulled the error codes (don't have them handy, but believe 89 KOEO and 21 KOER.) so will have to look into that as well.

 

[rhuck60]

congratulations on your Explorer

it looks to be in fine shape
and Identical to my 91 XLT

the vibration problem you describe I think is most likely due to the 2 remaining used tires being out of round, flat spotted or cupped

the 2 tires you added were new, yes?

the next most likely reason is 1 (or more) bent, damaged or out of round wheels (or a combination of both bad wheels and tires)

I would try swapping both front wheels with the back wheels to see if it changes anything

that will tell you it is the wheels or tires and rule out other causes

in an extreme case you may need to get or borrow 2 definitely good wheels/tires and swap them 1 end at at a time.

also check all the lug nuts, the wheel bearings for too loose an adjustment the radius arm bushings and finally the tie rod ends

in my experience vibration caused by u-joints is only seen under load
accelerating or going up steep hills.

edit: any good alignment should immediately show up a warped or bent wheel