Newbie story/questions

[rhuck60]

changing the multi-function switch will require pulling the steering wheel

but that is very minor work
remove the 2 phillips screws holding the wheel cover on
unplug and remove the wheel cover

remove the wheel retaining bolt and the counterweight

now you need a steering wheel puller or 2 short metric bolts to fit the 2 holes on either side of the retaining bolt

replace the retaining bolt finger tight and use a pry bar between that and each of the short side bolts

you can ease that wheel right off. thats how the puller works, actually

next remove the end plastic shroud ring by pulling the left side towards the door and then forward (stretch it out of round about 3/4 inch)

2 phillips screws hold the top and bottom column covers together

2 phillips screws are what hold the multifunction switch in place

 

[RobertFord]

I would try swapping both front wheels with the back wheels to see if it changes anything

Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a go as soon as the vibration comes back

changing the multi-function switch will require pulling the steering wheel

but that is very minor work
remove the 2 phillips screws holding the wheel cover on
unplug and remove the wheel cover

remove the wheel retaining bolt and the counterweight

now you need a steering wheel puller or 2 short metric bolts to fit the 2 holes on either side of the retaining bolt

replace the retaining bolt finger tight and use a pry bar between that and each of the short side bolts

you can ease that wheel right off. thats how the puller works, actually

next remove the end plastic shroud ring by pulling the left side towards the door and then forward (stretch it out of round about 3/4 inch)

2 phillips screws hold the top and bottom column covers together

2 phillips screws are what hold the multifunction switch in place

Dang, Haynes told me the same, I was hoping there was a way around pulling the steering wheel

I'll be doing some off roading soon, would it be wise for me to (temporarily) remove the step bars? ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2846302&postcount=1 ) It'll give me the necessary clearance while going over humps and such, right?

 

[RobertFord]

Got a lot of minor work done on the ex. (fixed passenger window not going up/down by greasing the tracks, fixed a couple of switches, fixed my lift gate lock)

Whilst off roading a while back, I noticed loud grinding sounds when in reverse in 4wd. I still have the auto locking hubs on them, would conversion to manuals be a no-brainer, even if I don't off road a lot?

Also, when on a dirt road and making a sharp-turn at low speeds in 4wd mode, you can hear the front-end pop, it doesn't do this on any other occasion, so I figure this must be the differential, right? What can I do about this and should I be worried?

Next up is the coolant leak, it keeps drinking it like it's cold beer on a hot summer day. (None in the oil though, luckily)

 

[RobertFord]

Hi All,

Recently replaced my auto-locking hubs with manual ones from AVM, some pictures of the process. The old bearing retaining ring required a few love-taps, the small magnet was stuck beneath it.

Also finally got around to changing my fuel-filter. I had to wait for the fuel line disconnect tool to arrive from the states before I could change it. After that it was relatively easy.

I also finally found my coolant leak, and am reasonably sure it's the water pump. Its next on my to-do list. Whilst investigating the water pump a bit (any advice?) I also saw that my radiator fan had quite the cracks around the length of the axle, in between each blade. I've ordered a new fan from the states, due any time soon (A doorman one) to be replaced at the same time as the water pump.

Any advice regarding the water pump based on these pictures (ie. could it be anything else?)

Also, when changing the drive belt, there is also an option to purchase what I think should be a shorter one to bypass the A/C. Would that be all that's required to disable the A/C and possibly save a few pennies on gas?

 

[mr cribb]

I'm pretty sure there's a how to on changing the water pump on here.

My advice, since the radiator has to be drained to do the water pump job, replace the hoses and thermostat. This is assuming you haven't done so recently.

A wise mechanic told me the secret to a long running 4.0 is don't overheat it. So I would address the parts of the cooling system associated with doing the water pump.

 

[RobertFord]

congratulations on your Explorer

it looks to be in fine shape
and Identical to my 91 XLT

the vibration problem you describe I think is most likely due to the 2 remaining used tires being out of round, flat spotted or cupped

the 2 tires you added were new, yes?

the next most likely reason is 1 (or more) bent, damaged or out of round wheels (or a combination of both bad wheels and tires)

I would try swapping both front wheels with the back wheels to see if it changes anything

that will tell you it is the wheels or tires and rule out other causes

in an extreme case you may need to get or borrow 2 definitely good wheels/tires and swap them 1 end at at a time.

also check all the lug nuts, the wheel bearings for too loose an adjustment the radius arm bushings and finally the tie rod ends

in my experience vibration caused by u-joints is only seen under load
accelerating or going up steep hills.

edit: any good alignment should immediately show up a warped or bent wheel

Well, I got around to rotating the tires (back/front), when installing the new manual hubs, but the vibrations are still there, and seem to have gotten a little worse.

Now, this could be because the front wheel bearing retaining nut is a little less tight than the previous one, and the bearings are shot anyways. My other guess is the driveshaft u-joints, which I shall be inspecting and quite probably replacing soon. Especially so because I have the rear end clunk.

I did read the thread on water pump removal and installation, it seems pretty straight forward, once you get the radiator fan off

 

[RobertFord]

Quick question; when replacing the thermostat, do you need the o-ring around it, or can you also use the paper/cork gasket? My thermostat only came with the cork one, hence the question.

I have no idea what's on there now, but would like to come well prepared. Can you also just use any other rubber band (with slot) that will fit around it?

 

[RobertFord]

Two weeks ago I finally got around to doing some maintenance. I replaced the Waterpump, thermostat and radiator fan, as well as one of the u-joints in the driveline. (The other was just fine, very smooth)

I was kind of hoping that replacing the U-joint would get rid of my bad vibration, but alas, it dit not. There is some play at the differential end (not in the joint, but inside the differential) is that bad? I figured it could be due to distance between gear-teeth or something like that.

Next, I'll re-check my front wheel bearings, as I have recently switched automatic for manuals hubs, perhaps I didn't tighten them enough.

I have been able to pinpoint the vibration somewhat. it obviously occurs at the 65mph speed, and starts when steering right (in any amount) and then disappears over time. Steering left causes none to little vibration. The vibration can be felt both through the steering wheel and the seats. Any information is most welcome.

I'll post some pics of the tooling soon

 

[mr cribb]

Have you replaced your transmission mount?

I felt vibration in my seat, checked with a mechanic friend of mine, he said to replace it. Mine was cracked in half.

I still have vibration at 60-65, I suspect it is my wheel bearings.

 

[RobertFord]

Ok, as promissed. Here's a short description of what I did.

All the goodies ready to be installed


Using Haynes and some prints of this forum as my guide


After the fan and fan shroud have been removed, there's easy access to the water pump and other parts. The fan can be easily removed using a 36mm wrench (which was actually quite hard to find) and a little love-tap with a hammer.


Once the fan has been removed, drain the coolant from the radiator


Remove the water pump pulley


And remove the water pump.


And it's off! it almost fell of on its own once the bolts were removed


There was practically nothing left of the old gasket.


Scrape the old gasket off the block, be thorough with this, try to achieve a clean, smooth, surface...


Put some RTV to the water pump edges, put on the gasket, and then another layer of RTV. Let this sit for a while. I fear I might have used too little...


Reinstall the water pump (be sure to cross-tighten the bolts, to ensure even pressure). I installed the pulley the next day, allowing the RTV some time to set.


As I also had a new fan, I needed to remove the clutch of the old one, and clean it.




And reinstall it on the new fan.


(Re)install the (new) serpentine belt, and re-attach the fan to the water pump, don't forget the shroud


Finish!


Now fill the radiator with your mix of coolant/water, start the explorer and keep topping it up as the system refills itself.

After removal of the driveshaft (Be sure to get a 12-point, 12mm socket), it was clear that one of the joints was shot.


A lot of hammering later, the new u-joint was installed *whew*


I also replaced all the thermostat (that's one hard to reach bolt! be patient ) and the spark plugs. The ones on the drivers side were easy, and not so bad. The ones on the passenger side were, as expected, harder to reach. So badly, even, that they probably hadn't been replaced in a couple of years as they were worn out pretty bad. (I got the one closest to the firewall by just using a ratchet and some patience. no extensions necessary)

A short clip of the engine running (any comments as to how it sounds?)


As said, the vibration isn't gone yet. I'll have to look at the transmission mounts, see if they are in tact. I put the transmission into neutral once it started vibrating on the freeway. The vibration did not disappear in neutral, making me believe it doesn't have something to do with the drivetrain, necessarily, could this be right?

[edit]Vide fixed.

 

[RobertFord]

I've recently started to think the rear leaf springs might be sagging, I can pick up two replacements for $50 each, question is, will it be worth it or not?

 

[mr cribb]

I still vote for the trans mount. It is a PITA to do. If you have a friend that has a shop with a lift it will be MUCH easier, as you have to drop the transmission cross member to change the part. I tried to do it in my driveway that didn't work at all.

 

[RobertFord]

I went to a boneyard (?) today, but they didn't have a transmission mount for the X there. As I'll be in Arizona in a week or two, I'll see if I can pick one up there, save the S&H

Did get two new leafsprings, just to keep me busy

[edit]
Also, the hubs felt hot (too hot to touch) after driving it for about 100mi. today. Searching this forum it could be either bearings or a dragging break. As I notice no vibration or heavy pull during breaking, and both hubs are hot, I'm suspecting it's not the break, but the bearings.

To replace them both, I need the axle bearing, and seal, right? Assuming that the racer (the replacement for the one in the rotor) comes with the new bearing.

parts: http://amzn.com/B000BZ953M and http://amzn.com/B0012UCIW0

 

[mange1234]

Should be an easy task to install a fuel pump cut off switch.

Seems a easy way to install a manual fuel cut off switch is to disconnect the two wires to the inertia switch, run them to a switch mounted on the dash. I have been thinking about it. But, need to get my 1993 Ford Explorer running good first.

Mike



It sounds like a manual fuel pump cut off switch (I have one for anti theft reasons). Yours was most likely installed for a constantly running fuel pump. If there was an issue with the ECC or the fuel pump relay getting stuck ON the fuel pump would keep running after the key was removed which would drain the battery over time. If the previous owner didn't know the cause or have the time to trouble shoot adding a simple switch would have solved the issue.

Does the fuel pump keep running after the key is removed? If yes then the ECC or Fuel pump relay has an issue. If NO, perhaps the previous owner fixed the problem and the fuel pump switch is no longer needed.[/QUOTE]

 

[mange1234]

Thermostat had a neopreme ring gasket on it.

I just replaced thermostat on my 1993 Explorer. The thermostat was purchased from autoZone. It had a neopreme "O" ring already around the circumference of the thermostat. I installed, and it works fine, no leaks.

Make sure u put the thermostat in the correct way. Spring towards the engine. lol

Good luck

Mike




=RobertFord;2993949]Quick question; when replacing the thermostat, do you need the o-ring around it, or can you also use the paper/cork gasket? My thermostat only came with the cork one, hence the question.

I have no idea what's on there now, but would like to come well prepared. Can you also just use any other rubber band (with slot) that will fit around it?[/QUOTE]

 

[Bwana Bob]

Yes, the thermostat uses the rubber "tire" (tyre) around it. A cork gasket between the thermostat housing and engine block is not necessary.

Some thermostats have a small hole in their mounting flange. The thermostat should be installed with the hole up. This is for bleeding out any trapped air.

A caution on fuel filters: Do not use the Chinese Fram filters. They fail and dump dirt into the fuel injectors, causing rough running and a major loss of power.

Bob

 

[mange1234]

Thermostat and fuel filter.

Yes, the thermostat uses the rubber "tire" (tyre) around it. A cork gasket between the thermostat housing and engine block is not necessary.

Some thermostats have a small hole in their mounting flange. The thermostat should be installed with the hole up. This is for bleeding out any trapped air.

A caution on fuel filters: Do not use the Chinese Fram filters. They fail and dump dirt into the fuel injectors, causing rough running and a major loss of power.

Bob

Yes, my thermostat had the rubber tire. Only prob I had was figuring which way to put the thermostat back in. Finally surfaced this site and got right way to do so. It has been in a few days now and seems to be working ok. My engine temperature gage does not work. ouch along with the fuel oil gage. Ouch again. I have to keep fuel tank topped off as not to run out. Gonna fix it all some day.

Yes, that is scarry about those Chinese Fram fuel filters. I dont know what kind I put in my SUV. bought it at AutoZone. But, ask guy for an OEM.

I am not zenophobic or anything, but lots of junk come out of China. I mean real trash.

Thanks for info.

Good luck,

Mike in Virginia Beach

 

[RobertFord]

I still vote for the trans mount. It is a PITA to do. If you have a friend that has a shop with a lift it will be MUCH easier, as you have to drop the transmission cross member to change the part. I tried to do it in my driveway that didn't work at all.

Picked up a transmission mount whilst in Arizona, will give it a try tomorrow. I can just put some wood between the floor jack and the transmission oil pan to jack it up, right? If I can't get it done on the driveway, I'll go find a lift

 

[RobertFord]

Well, I didn't get to change it, but I'm near certain it's the cause of my vibration. From the image below its visible the rubber's bad. Now I have to find a way to replace it. I unbolted one side of the crossmember, but it seemed pretty stuck, is that normal? I had to bolt it back on because there was too little time. Will try again soon

 

[RobertFord]

Got around to changing the TM today, on a bridge, dropped the crossbeam, very straightforward. After getting the old one out, it was clear that it was very much in need of replacement. I could compress it between my fingers, without much effort.

It didn't totally fix the vibration, though, but it certainly took the edge off. (It's less 'violent' now) I'll do wheel bearings and front shock absorbers next weekend, that should be the end of the vibration then. The current shocks are very worn, so I hope changing them will fix it. I checked all front bushings, they all seem soft and cushion-y, so that shouldn't be the problem.


/incoherent.