No A/C 2004 Explorer

[larrywcc]

I tried to search around but I could not find the same year and or something that looks the same.

I have a explorer 2004
First the vent went near the glove box thanks to this form I fixed this.
Second the vent went under the radio ( center ) I just make it work by hand to go from hot to cold. Here we only need complete heat for winter and complete cold for summer. Anyways it worked great and this part broke in winter.
Third, the directional stopped working. replaced the multi switch with a used one. At times it will blink 3-10 times then stop but at least it works most of the time.

All the help from this forms! Thanks for the great help and information.

Now to the new problem, This summer the A/C does not work. I taken it to a few places that said it would cost $1,800 to fix.
The A/C is full of freon
The clutch will come on for a few seconds. It will keep doing this on and off but never produce cold air.
The rear will also not get cold.

Anything I should look for or test. Do not want to pay $1,800. Is it easy to replace the compressor with a used one ?

Thanks for any help

I found on another website with not much detail about the pressure sensor. They said to jump the switch to see if the clutch keeps running. But no more information after that.
So I jumped the switch and the clutch keep running. Now with out knowing and do not want to mess the compressor up. One place told me the freon is full. So now if the compressor is running could it just be low on freon or just the switch needs to be replaces. If the switch needs to be replaced can I do it or will the freon all leak out?

 

[fixt]

The low pressure switch has a schrader valve under it, so it can be replaced without blowing out the R134. Jumpering the LP switch is only meant as a test.
For compressor replacement specialized tools are needed in addition to o ring seals, nylog lube and a new reciever/accumulator along with orifice while you're there. Gauge set and vacuum pump among other things.
If you jumped the switch and it got cold while idling, check pressures with a proper gauge set and possibly then replace LP switch. Don't use the "kill an AC" kit stop leak stuff.

 

[larrywcc]

The low pressure switch has a schrader valve under it, so it can be replaced without blowing out the R134. Jumpering the LP switch is only meant as a test.
For compressor replacement specialized tools are needed in addition to o ring seals, nylog lube and a new reciever/accumulator along with orifice while you're there. Gauge set and vacuum pump among other things.
If you jumped the switch and it got cold while idling, check pressures with a proper gauge set and possibly then replace LP switch. Don't use the "kill an AC" kit stop leak stuff.

I just jump the switch but it was cool enough could not tell. When I get home will see if it gets cold. Just didn't want to run it long in case it is really low.
Guess, will not look into replacing the compressor. I think I found a place that will test the pressure without charging alot of money,
Thanks for the information

 

[arco777]

$1800 is a major rip off. I would not give those places your business. I deal often with a local AC shop and their prices are a tiny fraction of that amount (think 1/20).

The only way I could see a $1800 bill, is if a shop was replacing every single AC component in your car and charging you for the parts as well. Even then that's about $800 too much!

If your charge level is good (not overly high or low), you probably do have a bad low/high pressure switch. The system will not keep the compressor engaged if it detects the refrigerant (freon) pressure is too low or too high.

Replacing the switch in most cases will require evacuating the system and recharging it once the new switch is installed. The switch should be available from any local parts store or online supplier for under $40 and usually is replaceable with basic hand tools. A reasonable charge to have a system evacuated and recharged would be in the range of $40-70 with refrigerant included.

Your compressor is probably fine. When they go bad, it is usually either a failure of the compressor seals (leaking freon out) or internal mechanical failure, in which case it will fully or partially seize up and clog the system with chunks of fragged compressor. Occasionally the clutch will fail but this is rare and would cause different symptoms than you are seeing.

 

[larrywcc]

Thanks, will post what I find out that now I have a better understanding.