No reverse, simple fix?

[JK080]

Will your scanner show data?

It would be helpful to know what the computer is doing, what gear it wants, what info it is getting from other sensors and switches. For this thing to start off in a wrong gear is unusual for this transmission especially third gear because shift solenoids A - B - D are on and C is off. It would almost have to be commanded electrically to be in third.

It might be a good idea to remove the case connector and inspect it and the pins in the solenoid block for corrosion, Ford thought is a good idea to have the A/C evaporator drain to drip on this connection and we see a lot of issues with water corroding the connection.

While the connector is disconnected take it for another test drive and see if it acts any different because all solenoids off is 4th gear, so this may help with identifying what gear it actually is starting off in. I think you might be able to get a manual 2nd with connector unplugged too, not sure but it wouldn't surprise me.

As for the transfer case remove the brown wire from the connector, just remove the lock from the front and you should be able to release the wire from the connector with a pick. This will let you remove the shift motor.

 

[JakePSD]

That wire will not pull out. The best way is to go up to the connector and release it from the housing. Most time people will just cut it and reconnect it with poor results usually.

What does that wire do anyway? If I did go that route I'd definitely use heat shrink.

Will your scanner show data?

Yeah. I have auto engineuity on my laptop.

It would be helpful to know what the computer is doing, what gear it wants, what info it is getting from other sensors and switches. For this thing to start off in a wrong gear is unusual for this transmission especially third gear because shift solenoids A - B - D are on and C is off. It would almost have to be commanded electrically to be in third.

Yeah this is puzzling me as well. I'm no trans expert but I've read my ATSG manual for this trans from front to back and this makes no sense. I'll happily take any advice I'm given.

It might be a good idea to remove the case connector and inspect it and the pins in the solenoid block for corrosion, Ford thought is a good idea to have the A/C evaporator drain to drip on this connection and we see a lot of issues with water corroding the connection.

I'll check that. Someone has already replaced that connector at some point. I'm questioning their connections. They used regular butt connectors... Also I remember there being 2 purple/yellow wires on that plug when I replaced the one on my truck, does it matter if those are switched? Maybe that could cause some odd operation.

While the connector is disconnected take it for another test drive and see if it acts any different because all solenoids off is 4th gear, so this may help with identifying what gear it actually is starting off in. I think you might be able to get a manual 2nd with connector unplugged too, not sure but it wouldn't surprise me.

I will try that as well.

As for the transfer case remove the brown wire from the connector, just remove the lock from the front and you should be able to release the wire from the connector with a pick. This will let you remove the shift motor.

What a smart design...

Replys in red.

 

[transman304]

It is the clutch coil assembly. It is a big magnet.

C-Trac Function

This is the interesting part. The C-Trac transfer case transmits torque to the front wheels through an electromechanical shift assembly after a predetermined change in speed between the front and rear driveshafts is detected. These driveshaft speeds are determined by two Hall effect sensors which send a signal to the generic electronic module (GEM). If the GEM detects a change in speed between the front and rear driveshafts, it activates the transfer case clutch coil with a varying current to minimize the change in driveshaft speeds.

 

[JakePSD]

Oh, yeah I don't wanna cut that...

 

[JakePSD]

So I drove without the solenoid plug in the trans, and was locked in 4th as expected. No other manual gears worked. I unhooked the battery and connected a jumper wire between the wires to clear the capacitors. When I went to restart it, it wouldn't unless I moved the shifter. So clearly the DTR sensor is out of alignment. I tried starting in neutral and it almost was into the reverse detent before it would start. That could explain some of the erratic stuff it's doing. Mechanically it's saying Drive, electrically it's saying manual 3. I'm gonna realign the DTR sensor and report back.

 

[JakePSD]

DTR sensor was in fact out of alignment. Not by much, but apparently enough, because I now have all 5 forward gears, and they work perfectly fine. Oddly reverse still works a little bit. At idle it grabs enough to move the truck normalish, but if you give it any throttle it just slips. I'm certain I need to be careful with that so I don't smoke the L/R drum.

Now I gotta figure out my next step. I'm currently leaning towards just buying a new L/R band and installing it, and praying the rest holds up for a long time. Once the trans in out of the truck, about how long would you say it would take to change out that band? Do I need to buy any special tools, gaskets, or other parts? The screen on the L/R servo, how important is that? Mine has a small tear in it.

In regards to the flashing 4x4 light, could it have anything to do with the fact that I don't have the front driveshaft installed at the moment?

Have any of you replaced the timing chains with just the transmission out? I think this one needs it, got a bit of rattle on a cold start. I've done a couple with the motor out, but if I have to pull the trans to change that band, if it is reasonable, I'll do the chains while its out, and just leave the motor in the truck.

 

[JakePSD]

Bump for some answers.

 

[JK080]

DTR sensor was in fact out of alignment. Not by much, but apparently enough, because I now have all 5 forward gears, and they work perfectly fine. Oddly reverse still works a little bit. At idle it grabs enough to move the truck normalish, but if you give it any throttle it just slips. I'm certain I need to be careful with that so I don't smoke the L/R drum.

Now I gotta figure out my next step. I'm currently leaning towards just buying a new L/R band and installing it, and praying the rest holds up for a long time. Once the trans in out of the truck, about how long would you say it would take to change out that band? Do I need to buy any special tools, gaskets, or other parts? The screen on the L/R servo, how important is that? Mine has a small tear in it.

In regards to the flashing 4x4 light, could it have anything to do with the fact that I don't have the front driveshaft installed at the moment?

Have any of you replaced the timing chains with just the transmission out? I think this one needs it, got a bit of rattle on a cold start. I've done a couple with the motor out, but if I have to pull the trans to change that band, if it is reasonable, I'll do the chains while its out, and just leave the motor in the truck.

I cant really tell you how long it takes to swap the low band in, it will just depend on if you have any difficulties along the way, I could do it pretty quick but I am use to working on them. I would guess a days worth of work.

You should be able to do the job without any special tools, you may have to be creative with things like removing the pump and taking the drums completely apart if you go that far. You will need a pump alignment tool if you take the pump apart.

I wouldn't order any parts until you have it apart, this way you can get everything you need at once after you make the decision on what else you want to replace. I also wouldn't worry about that screen in the servo just leave it

The missing front shaft shouldn't have anything to do with the transfer case codes you have.

I dont know of any benefit to replacing the timing chains with the transmission out, but you should be able too.

 

[JakePSD]

Thank you. At this point I don't know what exactly I'm gonna do. This truck was supposed to be for my girlfriend that today told me she is gonna be leaving.

It has remained civil so far, but WTF. Maybe I'll just put the trans from the other explorer I have in it. The other one has an engine tick that has turned into a knock and will most likely get parted out due to said noise.