No Start After Sitting For 2 years (Cranks, No Fuel)- Probably NOT PATS related

[Carguy3J]

Hey guys. I need some advice/suggestions here. The Explorer has been out of commission for about 2 years now. It ran fine when I parked it. I had the front end apart; ended up doing front ball joints, cv's, brakes,front diff bushings,etc...
Also, the exhaust is currently open pipes just past the manifolds, as I was in the process of making some "custom modifications" to the exhaust. Rear O2's are disabled in the tune, and both fronts are plugged in. The pcm currently has one of James's custom tunes in it, which it was running fine on when parked.

It cranks with no problem, it will attempt to start on a shot of ether, so I'm comfortable assuming it is has spark. No fuel. The pump never comes on at all. Not to prime the system, not at all. I can hear the fuel pump relay click when I turn on the key, and it's a brand new relay. I checked the inertial switch. It is plugged in, and the button is all the way "down" with no jiggle or looseness of any kind, so I'm assuming it's not the inertial switch.

Now, I know, you're gonna say PATS. Well, the theft lights goes out after a few seconds of key on, like it's supposed to. So, probably not that.

I checked all the fuses inside, on the side of the dash. They're all good. There are 2 empty slots, but I can't find an accurate fuse diagram to confirm what those are for. Besides, I plugged good fuses into both anyway, and no change. Same for the under hood power distribution center. I can't find a diagram anywhere that actually matches my truck. I was thinking that maybe I pulled a fuse a while ago, to bleed the fuel system, for some reason. But I can't remember, and, as I said, I can't find a good diagram, to check the right fuses/relays.

I'm really annoyed with this, as I really want to get the Explorer back on the road for the winter, and it would be much easier to drive it into the garage then having to push; especially since I don't have any pushing help.

Any ideas? Any easy way to check the pump, without dropping the tank?
Thanks

PS. Yes, it has gas in the tank.

 

[swetrid]

You can try beating on the gas tank with a rubber mallet. Sometimes thats enough to shock the pump and it may start.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Open the gas cap and smell...

Does the fuel smell like varnish? IF your truck sat for 2 years with a good amount of fuel in the tank the pump is probably sitting in what looks like molasses...And the pump will not pump that fluid...My truck had the same issues and the fuel stunk...

But do check to see that the pump is getting voltage...I check at the interia switch or fuel pump connection on the drivers side frame rail...If you have voltage, you gotta drop the tank and pull the pump...

Check the tank and see if there is rust inside of it...If there is rust, consider replacing the tank...I tried cleaning, boiling out, coating the insides, and still had to replace the rusty tank after going through 2 pumps, a case of fuel filters, and getting REALLY good and quick on R&R the tank and pump...

 

[budwich]

run a jumper wire directly from the battery to past the inertia switch and see if the pump runs. IF it doesn't, odds are that the pump is bad. You can test this further by measuring resistance. As indicate, if it sat in a tank of "untreated gas" for two years, it is likely you have issues in the tank and pump.

 

[Carguy3J]

I appreciate the effort guys, and I know you're trying to help. But... No, there is no way. NO WAY, that the fuel is so gummed up that the pump can't pump it. Gas does not turn to a solid. I just started cutting up my old stock car, and the 105 octane race gas that has been sitting in the tank for MUCH longer still flows freely, and smells like high octane gas. The Explorer was sitting for much less time, and with a much better sealed system. My old chevy p/u also sat for 2-3 years, and ran just fine on the gas that was in it, when I finally started it. Whatever the problem is, it's not bad gas.

A bad pump, maybe, but not bad gas. And if this requires dropping the tank, it'll probably sit for another 2 years.

I'll try checking voltage at a few spots, as well as running 12volts direct to the pump. (well, the pump side of the connection anyway.)

Again, anybody have an accurate fuse/relay diagram? Haynes/Chilton ones don't match the configuration on my truck, especially on the underhood power distribution block(s).

 

[2000StreetRod]

battery junction box diagram

You can download a copy of your Users Guide by going to www.motorcraftservice.com There is a diagram of the battery junction box on page 185. Fuse 9 (20 Amps) controls the fuel pump relay and RAP Module.

I agree with previous posts suggesting checking the voltage at the fuel pump connector but it will take two people - one to watch the voltmeter while the other switches the ignition from Off to Run. It will only have voltage for a few seconds. According to my 2000 wiring diagram the positive lead is pink/black and the chassis ground is black. I suspect it will be the same on your 1999.

 

[Carguy3J]

You can download a copy of your Users Guide by going to www.motorcraftservice.com There is a diagram of the battery junction box on page 185. Fuse 9 (20 Amps) controls the fuel pump relay and RAP Module.

I agree with previous posts suggesting checking the voltage at the fuel pump connector but it will take two people - one to watch the voltmeter while the other switches the ignition from Off to Run. It will only have voltage for a few seconds. According to my 2000 wiring diagram the positive lead is pink/black and the chassis ground is black. I suspect it will be the same on your 1999.

Thanks for the reminder. I forgot, I actually have a .pdf copy of the owners manual. D'oh! I'll check it out later.

 

[Carguy3J]

Well, just a little update (yeah 8 months later, I know...) I finally got around to testing everything today. It's either the fuel pump (which is what I'm assuming.), or the last foot or so of wire, before the pump, as that is where I tested to (the connector on the frame rail, just ahead of the tank.)
The "theft" light stops blinking with the key in run, so no PATS issue.
The fuel pump relay clicks when the key is turned on.
There is power to the inertia switch. I didn't test the switch itself, but I bypassed it with no change (jump pnk/blk and the 12v in (Blk/Grn I think it was)

I have 12v for a few seconds, at key on, to the "front" side of the connector on the frame rail. After a couple seconds it drops to 6v, and holds there indefinitely.
I jumped 12v, from an extra battery I have, to the Pnk/Blk wire terminal, on the "back" half of the connector, with still no pump. I ran the + of the battery to the Pnk/Blk wire, and the - to the frame.
So, I'm going with it being the fuel pump, unless anyone has a reason why it wouldn't be.

Oh, this is going to be fun...... The tank is FULL. No, not just has a lot in it. I mean to the tippy-top, fuel gauge pegged, I must have filled it up on the way home the day I parked it, FULL. DOH!!!! Oh well, at least that should have stopped condensation and rust.

 

[budwich]

try the "love tap" with the hammer on the bottom of the tank (with the jumper wire connected so you have constant voltage)... might have "interim effect"... enough to get it going til you use up the gas

 

[bobflood]

Oh, this is going to be fun...... The tank is FULL. No, not just has a lot in it. I mean to the tippy-top, fuel gauge pegged, I must have filled it up on the way home the day I parked it, FULL. DOH!!!! Oh well, at least that should have stopped condensation and rust.

There is also a fuel pump replacement solution that avoids dropping the tank by cutting a hole in the floor under the back seat and above the tank. You will have to search for the threads - I don't know where they are - but it looked like a viable solution.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel stabilizer?

If you didn't add fuel stabilizer to the tank when you parked the vehicle your fuel has probably changed to noncombustable lacquer after two years. The Volvo I purchased had set for 1 1/2 years before I purchased it. I drained the tank, replaced the intank fuel strainer and then added two gallons of fresh gas and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. It has started right up on the first try since then. If you pull the pump and soak it in some kind of solvent it may run again reliably.

 

[Carguy3J]

QUOTE=bobflood;2749586]There is also a fuel pump replacement solution that avoids dropping the tank by cutting a hole in the floor under the back seat and above the tank. You will have to search for the threads - I don't know where they are - but it looked like a viable solution.[/QUOTE]
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160&page=3
Yeah, I've read it several times. I guess I could try it; I'm just a little apprehensive about cutting so close to the lines. Not just for fire, but cutting a fuel line would be an expensive PITA. I'm also not thrilled about the idea of cutting up the truck. This not an offroader/beater. No matter how careful I am to clean/paint/seal the cut back up, it's a safe bet that that spot will start to rust long before any of the surrounding sheet metal.

If you didn't add fuel stabilizer to the tank when you parked the vehicle your fuel has probably changed to noncombustable lacquer after two years. The Volvo I purchased had set for 1 1/2 years before I purchased it. I drained the tank, replaced the intank fuel strainer and then added two gallons of fresh gas and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. It has started right up on the first try since then. If you pull the pump and soak it in some kind of solvent it may run again reliably.

Nah. I don't know why some people keep saying this. Yes, fuel left in a snow blower or lawnmower, etc.. over the off season will cause issues. However, that's mainly do to their "open" fuel system. On the Explorer, the system should have remained closed, with the only air/oxygen present being the little bit at the top of the tank (very little in this case.) Is it the "BEST" fuel after several years? No, probably not. But it will still burn, and run fine. At least well enough that I'm not going to throw away a full tank of it. Not only would I lose the gas, but I'd probably have to pay to dispose of that much. It started out as 93 octane premium, so even if it degraded to 87 octane, it will still "burn". Once the truck is up and running around again, I'll add a bottle or too of octane boost (or maybe a little bit of 110 octane unleaded race gas), then when it's down to half a tank, I'll top off with premium (or maybe more race gas).

As for "saving" the pump; not worth it. I don't want to to risk getting stranded somewhere. One tow would cost more then a new pump. Besides, now that I think about, I had multiple random no-start incidents when I was still using the truck on a daily basis. It was very infrequent, but it did happen. Perhaps that was the fuel pump on it's last legs?

In any case, it will probably be a while before I do fix it. I'll update again when it's done. I am hoping to get it back on the road before the end of the summer, as I would like to see how the mods I have done/will do have affected my e.t. at the dragstrip. I last ran a 15.87, and I'm hoping to break into the 14's (as in, a 14.99 counts, and would make me happy). Plus, I just miss having it as a daily driver.

 

[shadowless127]

It sounds like a fuel pump issue.

Even if the gas is bad, you would still hear the pump prime; whether it pumps any fuel or not, you would hear it make an ATTEMPT to prime.

 

[Jim Weda]

A friend of a friend had a 1999 Ford Explorer he was going to get rid of. Asked if I wanted it, when he said for free I said heck yeah! He said it sat a couple years, but everything was fine except the truck would move forward when put in drive. (automatic). Fresh battery, sparks fine so I'm guessing it may be my pump as well. First time Ford Explorer owner so I'm guessing I'll have a lot to learn here. This tank only has about a 1/4 tank of gas though. It should still burn that gas right? TIA.