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No working interior lights?

OK, played with my '02 when I got home last night, by turning the cluster rheostat full down past the detent you can in fact turn off all interior lights even when you open the door(s) but with the rheostat full off you can still turn on map/dome lights with the little button at the lights. Also if your dimmer was fulll dim or off your instrument cluster would be dark with the headlights on.

Here is one I had in a mustang years ago, the fault was in the power "behind" the fuse box. In other words the fuse was good but there was no actual power coming into that fuse or component of the fuse box. I had to remove the fuse box from it's mount, turn it around (difficult as most wiring harnesses are very short) and re-attach the wire to the box.

I would get your lite tester or voltmeter and ensure that your fuse for that section is in fact hot. Your fuse could be "good" because there is no power to burn it up. Re-reading what you replied to waskly I'm not sure if you visually checked only the fuse or the contacts for power?

I would go as far "upstream" in this process as possible to see where you have power. Ensure there is power in the slot at the fuse box.

Good luck, electrical failures are tough, there's no fluids or traces of the problem generally.

I sure up there will be no fluids in a eletrical problem lol, And ill try messing with things on the dash but i cant cant the lights to turn on by opening doors, Pushing buttons or nothing and when i try testing the power to the lights plugs there not hot so looks like ill have to see if the fuse is even getting power, Ill try that and then you know.
 



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I sure up there will be no fluids in a eletrical problem lol, And ill try messing with things on the dash but i cant cant the lights to turn on by opening doors, Pushing buttons or nothing and when i try testing the power to the lights plugs there not hot so looks like ill have to see if the fuse is even getting power, Ill try that and then you know.

itscody,
good luck, my fuse box had a "break" in the buss that carried power up and down to that row of fuses if I recall, it was really a manufacturing defect in the pressure formed plastic/nylon and the metal embedded in the box. I was able to "bridge" it with solder and restore power to that particular section/fuse and I was good to go. I don't know what replacing a fuse box would be like, possible nightmare. Hopefully you can fix your problem if it lives there with soldering gun or something. Be careful, you don't want to create a fire hazard or skip the fuzes.
 












So I tested the fuse sockets fir the lights and there getting power. So it has to be the hotwire from the fuse box to the switch or something. If I can figure out what color the hot wire is for the lights. Ill run a new soruce of power.
 






Can you see the wire coming out of the fuse socket?

Can you see the wire coming out of the back of the fuse socket for the lights? It may have a distinct color that goes all the way out box and on to the socket. What are your color combos at the socket you can see? Try and figure out which of those combos might be at the box where the fuse is for the OH Lights.
 












Itscody,
OK, I have a probelm with my 12v pwr outlet so I am rooting around in the manual for fuses and such to fix my problem. On page 229 of my owners manual there is an additional diagram of the BACK of the fuse panel and #7 is a relay that says "Interior Lamps". I did not pull the box out but wonder if you checked that relay to see if that is the issue? I don't know what it does but I would verify that if you haven't yet. The book says you must remove the fuse panel to see it. I can't be that hard if they expect you to flip it over, maybe holds with one or two 7 mm bolts. Good luck
 






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