Noise in the engine compartment, passanger side

[SoNic67]

It drives me crazy because cannot pinpoint the source.
I put a screwdriver on the valve cover and doesn't seem to come from there. Frequency increases with the motor RPM's.
Can somebody point me to the right direction?
Uploaded video with good sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_1sBj7DivY
Better video with worse sound (point&shoot camera):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88a4vCwiJio

 

[jremington59]

It's hard to tell. Did you make sure there's not a crack in the manifold or EGR tube?

 

[SoNic67]

Thanks for the reply.
Cannot see anything obvious, just a lot of rust. Sound like is comming from the front part of the engine, not from the EGR (that's back on that side).
Should I try to tighten the manifold nuts?

 

[safn1949]

I watched the video,I don't hear that well but am guessing exhaust leak.have someone rev it and very carefully use your hand to feel for hot exhaust blowing from a crack.
Obviously don't touch the pipes,just hold your hand an inch or so and see if you can feel a leak.Dude,just be careful.Having touched a couple of cats at 2000F while working in a shop I can attest to the sound of fat frying.

 

[SoNic67]

Thank you, I will try that tommorow, with a cold engine. But the exhaust gases won't be visible thou? I cannot see or smell nothing.

 

[safn1949]

Thank you, I will try that tommorow, with a cold engine. But the exhaust gases won't be visible thou? I cannot see or smell nothing.

No,you are just trying to feel hot air.If it's leaking it will be obvious.

 

[SoNic67]

I found the noise source.
Never, ever, in a million years I will not buy again a car that was first registered in a state above Richmond latitude!!! Ever...

Spark plug 1 & 2. #1 insulator feels woobly. Running engine makes sparks there and the noise.

F't up.

Started the engine for a few seconds. Loud noise. The leftover insulator was "spit" out.
Hahaha, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Now... What's next? More PB Blaster + Remover? I don't want to damage the threads. Or whatever is left from them

 

[SoNic67]

One out, seven to go... For refference, I used a "Screw Remover No.5" (Lowe's has a kit). And a 24" long breaker bar.

Notice the small "bump" on the ground electrod. Allows the spark to "go" also in reverse direction - Ford dual ignition coils will send a positive pulse to one spark and a negative to the other connected to the same pack.

 

[bluestream1]

Looks like original plugs you have. Not sure why people leave their plugs in so long. A false economy if there ever was one...

 

[SoNic67]

I replaced the spark plugs #1 and #2. Both broke the same way.
Got ****y and broke the #3. Put the extractor in, wasn't breaking loose, forced the breaker bar and... broke the extractor in the plug hole.
Now I have a stubby extractor wedged in there and no ideea how to remove it, short of repacing the whole cylinder head.

 

[bluestream1]

Can you not get a spark plug socket over it?

If not, all I can think of is to drill it out and try it again with a new extractor. I would heat the area around the plug with oxy-acetene flame, then try it.

 

[SoNic67]

It is the hard steel dril - type remover that broke. The leftover is round...

 

[BK_89iX]

It is the hard steel dril - type remover that broke. The leftover is round...

Can you slot the leftover extractor nub and bang it with an impact driver hand tool (clockwise) to back out the broken extractor? Not sure how much clearance you have in there, but I'm guessing not much and not enough to get a drill at it! Looks pretty much like a nightmare scenario that'll take some creativity to resolve.

BK

 

[SoNic67]

If the extractor broke... it is solid seized.

 

[bluestream1]

Not sure how much room you have there, but the only way I no of to remove seized bolts is with heat. Not the propane heat, the acetylene heat. I have removed fasteners that would not budge with a large breaker bar. The heat expands the area around the fastener so much it comes out with ease. May be tough to get it hot with the collant still in. You have to be careful of course and use common sense.

Otherwise the head has to come off.

 

[hoss_hanna]

wow im so sorry to see that...... like others have said heat is your friend here, applied carefully, and try to cut a slot in it to get a grip on it. best of luck

 

[joe doe]

off subject but ,what camera did you use to take those pics?looks pretty good quality.
looks like your gonna have to remove that head.no way to drill that out without getting metal shavings down inside that cylinder,and you dont want that headache.
keep us updated.

 

[janolsson]

Have you got access to a MIG. Weld a nut onto the end of the extractor then try to back it out ??? If you get it out then you could give it another go but woith heat this time.

 

[SoNic67]

Thank you for the suggestion. I was thinking about welding something on that, I just don't know if that steel is weld-able.
I will have to ask a HVAC pipefitter/welder I guess...

PS: The Ford dealership quoted me 660$ for a new head plus 16 hours of labor to replace both of them (or 9 for one). Or 2400$ reman engine plus 20 hours of labor.

 

[SoNic67]

I found out that electric welding is not an option due to the hardened steel.
I will try J-B Weld first, with a 1/2" nut (grade 8).
I will let it cure 24 hours.