Oil Pressure Gauge

[Runaway929]

I was just wondering where everyones oil pressure gauge needle is at? I hit 100k last year and have been keeping an eye on it more for some reason. anyway, since then, about 6 to 8 months, the needle has moved up about 2 letters to the high side. it is now almost on the L (NORMAL) on the gauge at 113k miles. Even after fresh oil changes it goes back to the letter L after about 10 minutes of driving, I remember when it use to be steady straight up and down between the R and the M. I'm not real worried about it, just wondering where other explorers are at.

 

[pugsy]

Mine is in the middle. From what I've read on here, it should only ever be no pressure, okay pressure, and high pressure. I don't think it's an actual pressure gauge, just a 'yes' or 'no' type gauge. Unless someone has changed it out to a real sensor.

 

[mikeinri]

Mine's always at A, always has been for the past 200,000+ miles.

Mike

 

[Rustang©]

if yours is creeping it it doubt its from oil pressure.

Mine is at the L as well and its fine.

My "guess" is that you are grounding it out in some way or shape, afterall it is a stock gauge. Does the gauge read differently when the lights or blower motor are on?

And a note on high oil pressure; if your really concerned about it, take out the oil pressure sending unit and attach a standalone gauge to it.

If you want a pic, i'll get one up tomorrow for ya!

-Dan

 

[nismotunedgtr]

The oil pressure guage is fake. It only reads low when you get like 5psi.

I also want to know how to convert to a real oil pressure guage.

 

[old mechanic]

Runaway, I wouldn'tworry too much about it because like my 92 EX you should have a low oil light on the left part of the dash board that will come on when you get 1-2 quarts low.
__________
Nismot, there isn't much to change over to a real oil pressure gauge. Find a location for the new sending unit first so you will know where you have to rout everything to.
You get a copper line that connects to the sending unit (been a long time since I did one) and you need to get a Brass Run-Tee? and a brass adapter. Put some pipe dope? on all threaded areas.
Maybe they come complete as a kit now, I just don't know. ASk where you buy yours. You will proably have about 35-40PSI when idling and about 60-65?PSI when on the highway.

I am sure I used 18G wire to the sending gauge. Hook the 2nd wire so it lights the gauge up when you turn the ignition on OR hook it up to where it will run off of somewhere when you turn the lights on. I usually hook up to the radio wire that lights up the radio when you start your EX up. You can buy a dash unit and you can get one in a single-double-tripple or more if you wanted to add other things later. Most any local parts store will have them.
>>>DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING<<< and check for oil leaks right after you start your EX up. And do not tighten the fittings up too much. Its not like its going to hold a spare tire on. You can always tighten up a little after if needed.
If you have to drill a hole in the firewall put a rubber grommet in it before you run anything thru it.
Take it for a drive after you checked for leaks. This will sort of bleed the line. Check if the backing light is comming on too. ALWAYS re-check everything after running it for a while.
Be sure to READ the DIRECTIONS before attempting this to make sure you have everything including the tools you need to complete the job.
Its really easy.

 

[Runaway929]

thanks for all your input. I wasn't really worried about it, but all the info is great. But is doesn't change when different electrical loads are on. when I start the engine its on the M, then after 10 mins or so it slowly raises up to the L, which lead me to believe these things might actually be a real guage, but guess not.

 

[Rustang©]

you could tell if its a real gauge very easily.

Under heavy acceleration the pressure will rise, if it does so on the gauge its a real gauge. Mine dosent, lol!.

 

[awood]

I hope this isn't an intrusion, since this is my first post on this forum...but if the gauge hasn't been modified, the position of the needle has nothing to do with your pressure. As was mentioned, the gauge is a fake, wired just like an oil light. The sender is nothing but a switch, set to make or break at about 7 psi. When the switch is "made" it sets a ground and sends voltage to the gauge. The gauge would read full scale, except there's a fixed 20 ohm resistor soldered on the back of your instrument cluster. This resistor "drops" the voltage down so the gauge will read somewhere in the mid-range. Variables, such as external resistance in wiring, connectors, the solder joints, the sending unit, or the gauge itself, will have an effect on the postition of the needle. As long as the needle is steady, you should be in good shape. If it fluctuates, my experience is that the sender is beginning to fail and ought to be changed.

 

[walterd140]

My needle is inside the gage itself

Just kidding. With 107k, my needle has always been between the M & A of the word NORMAL. On a side note, she has a slight leak & my "Oil" light comes on when I am a quart low.

Hope this helps
Walter

 

[Maniak]

As was mentioned, the oil pressure gauge is a fake.

Here is a thread with more info, including how to modify your gauge to make it work like a real gauge. It will show pressure changed, just not what pressure your are running. I used my air compressor to find where 20,40 and 60psi were on my gauge, then used a label maker to mark those places on my gauge. Now it tells me what PSI I'm running.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14894&highlight=fake+oil+pressure

~Mark

 

[Bwana Bob]

Yes, it is a "fake". I didn't want to pull the instrument panel and modify it, so I added a separate gauge. I bought a T fitting at Sears. The gauge is an ISSPRO electrical 80 psi gauge which I mounted on the A pillar with an Autometer dual gauge pod. I also added a real calibrated voltmeter.

Pressure runs about 20 psi at idle when warm, up to 70 psi cold, on very cold days. Typical cold idle is 60 psi. Typical warm pressure at 1500-2000 rpm is about 45 psi.

I think that the new Explorers don't even have the fake gauge or voltmeter, just idiot lights.

Bob