Oil pressure problem

[koda2000]

the connector doesn't matter as long as it fits tightly on the sender's post and isn't corroded. they don't screw on, they just push on. they're kinda like a spark plug boot. there's no difference between years as long as they look the same and fit tightly. it doesn't matter if some of the sender post shows once the connector is on. if the connector feels really loose, pinch it a bit with a pair of pliers to snug it up.

as far as testing the gauge, what i'm saying is, with the key on, just shove a spare piece of wire, or a screw, into the connector and touch it to the engine or even the battery negative post. as long as it's clean metal it should cause the gauge to go to HIGH and stay there until to pull the wire away or turn off the key. don't be concerned, there's no voltage involved. it's just a ground for the gauge.

10w40 is a bit heavy for winter. but ok. you should use what Ford recommends for your engine. i believe that would be 5w30 for most climates.

 

[Lilmookman]

Sorry so late of response, i been working like crazy. Anyway, on the truck I noticed that the dummy gauge on the dash stays normal until the truck warms up. For a good 20 minutes from a cold start it was fine. Then after the temp gauge started rising thats when the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0. Everything happened at idle.

What could cause that because my oil sender is new?

 

[SoNic67]

As I already said... you have low oil pressure. The sender won't act like that.
When oil warms up, the viscosity goes down and can pass faster trough the bearing gaps. Oil pressure drops and at idle, because low rpm's, it goes below 5 psi - the gauge shows zero. Accelerate and pump spins faster, pushes more oil up the rails and pressure increases above 5 psi.

The real indication of pressure is the one of the mechanical gauge that you showed before. There was no need to replace the sender, it was all clear.

You will ruin the main bearings using the 5W20 (second number is viscosity when engine is warm). Right now probably you have just the cam bearings worn, probably you can hear ticking the lifters.
The car was designed for 40 weight, it will work acceptable with 30, but 20 is way too low for that generation of engine. Regardless what government decided.

 

[wood1]

There is a thread or two I have seen whereby guys have had to flush the oil system to fix their low oil pressure issues. I personally had a buddy in high school with an old F-150 with a sludged up 302 (78 I think) and he drained the oil and idled it with diesel rather than oil. He did it for a while, then changed the diesel, 3 times I believe. Brought it around. You should have seen the crap that came out of that engine. I have been a strong believer of regular oil changes ever since.

 

[Daniel77]

I replaced the rear seal in my 94 ex limited . After putting every thing back together . The oil gauge Went to the right side of "m" on normal . But when I'd Give it gas it would drop all the way to the low side . But when I'D get off the gas it went back to the right side of normal . Checked all the engine grounds, all were Clean and tight . When I checked the
Sending unit wire I found it really loose and barely on the sending unit . I took a pair of
pliers smashed the connecter slid it back on . Test drove it and the gauge stayed on the right side of the "m" on normal. Try this and see if it works . May its Not making
good connection .

 

[Lilmookman]

I still have not found the issue. I have tried everything. I even tried changing wires for the sending unit and still get the same reading.

On a cold start the oil gauge is normal but once the temp gauge moves, it hops back down to 0. Bout to try going to buy another sending unit, maybe this one is defective.

Now when the truck is started there is a knocking sound. Its low on idle but give it gas and its kinda loud. Its loud even when the gauge is normal. I think my engine is fried...or bout to be.