Oil System Flushing

[Smaug]

Is there a safe way to flush and de-sludge my oil system?

Bought used in 1999 and the oil gauge has usually read at the "O" in NORMAL and once in awhile at the "R". The last couple of days it's been just below the "N" or at the "N". Using regular 5-30 oil. change every 3000 mi. about ready for oil change and I am thinking of doing a flush. There used to be Oil System Flushing products from some of the more well known brands like Castrol...

I also am wondering if I should replace my oil sensor?

Please answer ASAP.

THANKS ! ! !

 

[leftoverture]

Sounds like a minor drop in system pressure that you may need to investigate. But if the oil has been changed regularly, it's unlikely flushing the system will do much for you.

 

[john93rangerstx]

flushing the engine mite clog the oil screen get a oil pressure gage and to check to see if ur sensor is going bad u can pull a valve cover off to see if the is sluge and go from ther

 

[arco777]

The stock gauge is just an "idiot light" and incapable of registering slight drops in oil pressure. It will only read low (zero) or normal, depending on whether or not you have achieved a certain oil pressure level (I believe 5psi). The gauge has more in common with your voltmeter. Slight drops or fluctuations are just as likely to be electrical in nature, such as a loose ground or corroded power connections.

You can verify the real oil pressure with a oil pressure gauge. The one I have cost about $30 online and comes with all necessary adapters. It also works for reading transmission pressures, which is a handy diagnostic aid for automatic transmissions. Quite a useful tool and cheap insurance against the stock idiot light, which could hide a low oil pressure problem until it's too late.

If you do want to clean your engine, there are several ways to do it. Some people suggest running Seafoam through the oil as the instructions on the can indicate. Others have mentioned using kerosene or diesel fuel but I would personally not recommend this for safety reasons. Another idea for heavily sludged motors is to drain the engine oil, fill with automatic transmission fluid instead (to the same capacity as oil would be filled, obviously) and run the engine for 20 minutes or so. In all of these cases you will want to drain the oil immediately after the added fluid does its thing, and put a fresh oil change and filter in.

If you have truly changed the oil every 3000 since 1999, then I very highly doubt your motor will have any major sludge or crud in it. Regular oil changes work well to keep sludge at bay.

 

[Smaug]

Actually it's a XTL with real needle gauges. I think I will check out the oil pressure sensor or just replace it for good measure. Hmm, I forgot the ATF method, as there is a minor valve cover leak on the driver's side this may be the best option should I decide to flush. Buying a gauge is a good idea too.

 

[willindsay]

Actually it's a XTL with real needle gauges. I think I will check out the oil pressure sensor or just replace it for good measure. Hmm, I forgot the ATF method, as there is a minor valve cover leak on the driver's side this may be the best option should I decide to flush. Buying a gauge is a good idea too.

Ya it has an oil pressure gauge in the cluster but like said above it's nothing but a glorified idiot light. You can mod it to be a real gauge fairly easily. Which if you're going through the trouble of changing the sensor I'd go ahead and swap it for a real sensor Just search on here for real oil pressure gauge mod and you'll find all the info.

 

[Smaug]

OK, I'll check it out. BUT when I checked for the sensor parts I was asked whether it was a light or gauge and the sensor for the gauge is bigger than the one for the light. So I would think that it might be reasonably useful, though not as accurate a a numerical PSI type gauge by any means.

 

[willindsay]

The light one is most likely for the low oil level dummy light. Check out THIS thread on converting to a real oil pressure gauge.

 

[Smaug]

Hmm, buying an PSI oil gauge kit with the appropriate sensor, running the connective wiring through the firewall and then mounting the new gauge somewhere in the ****pit seems a lot easier than pulling the dash.

 

[willindsay]

Hmm, buying an PSI oil gauge kit with the appropriate sensor, running the connective wiring through the firewall and then mounting the new gauge somewhere in the ****pit seems a lot easier than pulling the dash.

You don't have to pull the dash just the gauge cluster which is fairly simple. I think it'd take about the same amount of time.
I'd also use it as a chance to switch to LED bulbs for the cluster.

 

[Maniak]

Hmm, buying an PSI oil gauge kit with the appropriate sensor, running the connective wiring through the firewall and then mounting the new gauge somewhere in the ****pit seems a lot easier than pulling the dash.

It is easy to do. You just pull the cluster (not the dash). Its the same part you pull the change bulbs.

Here is thread from the useful thread forum that will help explain what needs to be done. Once you have seen both sending units you can easily tell which kind you have just by looking (pressure switch or true sending unit).

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65575&highlight=oil

~Mark

 

[Smaug]

As there are a couple of holes already in the firewall it's easier than the described way.. But the upgrade to a digital gauge is a great idea.

 

[Tony H]

Back to your original question:

you can warm the engine to operating temp. Drain the oil and fill with Kerosine or diesel fuel. Then run at about 1000RPM for a awhile in PARK. These fluids have lubricants in them and they are great for breaking up gack. Drain and do oil and filter change.
I would see if I could Eyeball into a valve cover to see if you do have a Crud buildup. I also do 3000 mile oil changes and at 320K miles, my Heads were remarkably clean when I did the Intake gasket.