ORV Build: What would you do diff?

[Baddecision93]

Ok, so just a brainstorming thread here. Hopefully I can get a few hits.

I'm not very far into my build and I've already realized some issues that I would attack differently if I had it to do over again. Then I got to thinking, I've still got LOTS of things I'm planning on doing...Wonder what hindsight will be when I'm all done.

So I'm asking you guys. What would you have done different? Mods that worked/didn't/should have done sooner, should have skipped altogether & went bigger, better etc? Figured out how you would have installed something after you did it the hard way, etc?

I've got the whole laundry list most guys do and time and money will obviously end up killing a lot of them. Might as well kill some bad ideas before I get there lol.

So, list the "hardcoreness" of your rig (daily driver or trailered buggy or somewhere in the middle), & what you would have done different if you had it to do over again.

Look forward to hearing from people who have been there and done that

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

start with a better base truck...

Prime the paint better

Not waste money on lmc springs

Ironically enough I wouldn't have changed the fact that I ran it on 31s for only a year, was good for driver skill, even if it didn't last as long as I thoight

 

[Baddecision93]

start with a better base truck...

Prime the paint better

Not waste money on lmc springs

Ironically enough I wouldn't have changed the fact that I ran it on 31s for only a year, was good for driver skill, even if it didn't last as long as I thoight

Ok, when you got LMC springs were they factory replacement or lift springs?

 

[Slowlyvverot]

I'm not too far into my build plans but one thing I probably wouldve done differently when I started building my truck is swap my LS 8.8 with drum brakes to an open 8.8 with disc brakes. i have already installed 4.88s in my current axle but disc's would be much nicer and i would rather have the option to install a lunchbox locker instead of being stuck with a worn-out LS.

Oh, and I wouldve ripped off my TC shift motor off a long time ago so I could actually go wheeling stock.

 

[corkey]

i know i don't have a 1st gen i wheel yet, but i have 1 coming,

first thing i would do is get a winch on the front, that can really help as you will challenge yourself more and learn what is really doable,, but have a safety net to get out ,,

 

[FIND]

I wouldn't have fixed it and spent the money on an diesel 85 suburban I just found.

 

[CodePoet]

Mines a trailer queen. It's a work in progress and will be for a long time. No regrets except I wish I could have gotten it finished quicker haha.

Currently:
full width d44, 9", rear disk conversion, 5.13's, 35"s, spooled rear, open front, sliders, hand throttle, ~5" lift (wish I could get it down another inch), winch. It looks a bit higher than it is but when I put the sliders in I cut out around 4"s of body under the doors and placed the sliders where they were. I gained around 2"s of extra clearance with no extra lift though http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/629/medium/MadeItToTheQuarry.JPG

Future Mods:
cowl snorkel (within a month or so), front locker (also within a month or so), in-cab winch controls, rock lights, going to be putting a hybrid exo/internal cage in, fuel cell, wristed arm, linked rear, possibly a linked front but not sure about that, dana 20 w/ twin stick, auto conversion

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

Ok, when you got LMC springs were they factory replacement or lift springs?

replacement

 

[Baddecision93]

I'm not too far into my build plans but one thing I probably wouldve done differently when I started building my truck is swap my LS 8.8 with drum brakes to an open 8.8 with disc brakes. i have already installed 4.88s in my current axle but disc's would be much nicer and i would rather have the option to install a lunchbox locker instead of being stuck with a worn-out LS.

Oh, and I wouldve ripped off my TC shift motor off a long time ago so I could actually go wheeling stock.

I'm looking at replacing my axles with junkyard 4.10s after I get my tax return. I was torn on whether to get LS or open. So the factory LS isn't worth it?
To get the 4.10 I have to go to 2nd gen so I get the disc brakes anyway, which everyone seems to say is worth it.


As far as everyone else, the only other strong consensus is a winch is one of the best mods for your buck?

 

[Baddecision93]

Mines a trailer queen. It's a work in progress and will be for a long time. No regrets except I wish I could have gotten it finished quicker haha.

Currently:
full width d44, 9", rear disk conversion, 5.13's, 35"s, spooled rear, open front, sliders, hand throttle, ~5" lift (wish I could get it down another inch), winch. It looks a bit higher than it is but when I put the sliders in I cut out around 4"s of body under the doors and placed the sliders where they were. I gained around 2"s of extra clearance with no extra lift though http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/629/medium/MadeItToTheQuarry.JPG

Future Mods:
cowl snorkel (within a month or so), front locker (also within a month or so), in-cab winch controls, rock lights, going to be putting a hybrid exo/internal cage in, fuel cell, wristed arm, linked rear, possibly a linked front but not sure about that, dana 20 w/ twin stick, auto conversion

Your entry intrigues me because everyone seems to want to go as high as humanly possible. Any reason you want to stick to a moderate sized lift?

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

cog. The best trucks are the ones with the biggest tires and the smallest lift with good articulation. The down fall of our trucks is weight and lack of room

Look at the way most buggies are built

 

[Maniak]

Ours is just past DD so I trailer it to far away trails. Plus I like sleeping in the tow rig (van) more than a tent.

Really, the only thing I regret is the truxes MT tires. They seem to work well off-road but the sidewalls are so soft now that I'm getting a nasty death wobble at 45mph, and only at 45mph which was the final straw for driving it around.

We have roughtly 3.5" of lift. Its a Duff 2.5" kit with the 3.5" kit springs up front and the rear is now a modified OME-36 spring set with 1 added leaf from an f-150 (200k miles, with towing on the OME-36 springs really made them sag). We also have War-153 shackles in the back.

We went with 4.10's early on with a detroit in the rear. It was one of the best mods we ever did.

We should have built/installed rock sliders years ago. The drivers side is banged up pretty good and sliders would have helped.

The f-250 shock mounts up front is a mod I wish I did earlier too since I get so much more up travel with it, but even without it, it wheeled and flexed very well.

My philosophy is to run as little lift as possible to clear the tires. The 3.5" lift is still a little short for my goal. When wheeling I can always tell the X is a little "short". The 33's on 8" rims work really well. They rub on the inside of the rear fenders (the liner) and the fronts rubbed at full lock with the stock RA. They rub earlier with the extended arms (no bend to clear them) but it doesn't bother me.

Here is an older picture but the ride height is still the same (this pic is before the extended arms)

Coleman Side view by maniak_az, on Flickr

After years of 4.10 gears (10 years) and 33" or smaller tires we are planning to go deeper this year. The plan is still 5.13's or possibly 4.88's (5.13 is in the lead). I would like to get up to 35" tires, and increase the lift another 2" (I have most of the parts already) but thats as big as we are going to go...

All in all, the less capable, smaller lift (2.5") and then going slightly bigger has had its advantages. I had to learn how to wheel first before I just jumped into the harder stuff.

~Mark

 

[safn1949]

I'm looking at replacing my axles with junkyard 4.10s after I get my tax return. I was torn on whether to get LS or open. So the factory LS isn't worth it?
To get the 4.10 I have to go to 2nd gen so I get the disc brakes anyway, which everyone seems to say is worth it.


As far as everyone else, the only other strong consensus is a winch is one of the best mods for your buck?

I have a LS in my 94,it works fine and makes a huge difference but I also have stock size tires.If the LS is rebuilt and you run moderate offroad it's great.

But an open diff does give you the choice of getting a locker,it really depends what you need.I have been on some interesting stuff in 2x4 with my LS and it does make a big difference.

 

[Baddecision93]

We went with 4.10's early on with a detroit in the rear. It was one of the best mods we ever did.
~Mark

I have a LS in my 94,it works fine and makes a huge difference but I also have stock size tires.If the LS is rebuilt and you run moderate offroad it's great.

But an open diff does give you the choice of getting a locker,it really depends what you need.I have been on some interesting stuff in 2x4 with my LS and it does make a big difference.

So, seems like a locker of some sort is worth the money? If I am going to pay to get a junkyard LS rebuilt would it be worth it just to find the open axle instead and just bite the bullet for a $300 Aussie locker right from the start?

I'm going to redo the axle seals and brakes while I have them just sitting in the garage so should I just get it over with and put in the locker before it's in the truck?

I guess I'd rather put off actually getting the axle in the truck for a couple extra months and be happy with it, rather than put it in just to get to run my new gears right away & then just end up having to mess around with getting a locker in after the axle is in.

 

[Maniak]

Your going to end up with a lot of hard decisions like that.

Spend less money later and do it right, or do it now for some money, do it again later for some more money to end up with what you really wanted.

I've noticed if I wait to do it right, sometimes it just doesn't get done.

I've never wheeled a vehicle with a working LS in the rear. I've either wheeled open diffs or a locker. From what I've seen, an LS in the rear only helps, but it just isn't anywhere as good as a locker.

~Mark

 

[Baddecision93]

Your going to end up with a lot of hard decisions like that.

Spend less money later and do it right, or do it now for some money, do it again later for some more money to end up with what you really wanted.

I've noticed if I wait to do it right, sometimes it just doesn't get done.

I've never wheeled a vehicle with a working LS in the rear. I've either wheeled open diffs or a locker. From what I've seen, an LS in the rear only helps, but it just isn't anywhere as good as a locker.

~Mark

Ya, I anticipated being in that spot .
I'm trying to "triage" my mods. I needed a lift kit because my current tires rub a little and I can't put my new fenders and rocker panels on when my tires rub.
The lift will also allow for bigger tires in the future.

Beyond that I know my current limiting factor is my pathetic 3.27 gears. They won't allow me very good wheel speed, nor will they allow me to go up tire sizes in the future. So I figured moving to a 4.10 will remedy that for now, for a decent price.

I keep telling myself if I just do the axle swap, with that and the lift I'll be satisfied for a while. That's my justification for thinking I might as well do the locker at the same time, so I can stay satisfied for the longest amount of time and keep saving money for extra "optional" add-ons.

From watching everyone else though it seems that the want list never really gets checked off, it grows instead

 

[nugs]

If u dont twist any the LS packed tight work fine (mine does), but if u start 2 articulate much at all they tend 2 slipout. i will b going locker on my next rear end.

 

[Flip4ford]

I would have done extended radius arms and a doubler sooner. And I would go with a locker in the front that I can turn on and off (ox, ARB, E-locker) I love my aussie lock up front EXCEPT doing tight corners like Black bear, or Radical hill, or general "Park" wheeling. I would have put in the "jeep" locking hubs sooner, instead of waiting for my new warn hubs to blow within 2 feet of each other.

I would have went with a c5 or m5od sooner so I didn't waste money on trany flushes.. cooling fans temp guages ect ect.

Oh and my truck is a moderate to fairly hard core wheeler-- depending on what you compare it to.

 

[tgreene92]

i would have gone with a 3 inch body lift along with my tt and shackles, and bought some nicer used 33's and rims instead of just buying brand new 31's. would have been about the same price.

 

[CodePoet]

Your entry intrigues me because everyone seems to want to go as high as humanly possible. Any reason you want to stick to a moderate sized lift?

Like Surealnj said cog. If you keep it low and wide it will be much more stable when you get in off-camber situations. I built it for trails and rocks which can put you in tippy situations real quick. And my sliders let me high center the rig with no damage and even bounce off stuff.

Here's a front pic during the build process
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/DSC00961.JPG