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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
But yeah, the kit from Delta cams comes stock length rods and their rocker arms. There is something special about their rocker arms, which I'm not sure of (some kind of heat treating maybe?)
Delta remanufactures the stock rockers and installs hardened sockets that reduce the wear thats so common on the 4.0. They used to have a page on their website talking about them, but I can't find it now.
The 422 with delta rocker arms requires pushrods of 5.525, without delta rockers, 5.550. The base circle of the 410 and 422 cams is the same and the only difference between them is the valve lift on the intake side and the duration for intake/exhaust.
I think the 410 will make you plenty happy, Creager....plus you won't have to worry about modifying your heads for dual valve springs. And the emissions thing as well. The 422 really doesn't have much overlap, but it may be just enough to fail a sniffer test.
As far as rings, I'm still using the original 150,000 mile factory bottom end....haven't touched it. I don't burn oil, but my oil pan gasket and rear main seal leak a bit so that's where I lose a little.
I don't know of a kit for our motors that includes lifters and a timing set....my factory lifters were fine when I did the cam swap....I think Doug recommends a Cloyes timing set for replacing the factory.
Edit: I do know that 8secsplash uses Total Seal plasma moly coated rings in his 12 second 4.0 ranger. I figure if they work for him, they're good enough for anyone else....just use a different ring gap than he has. Here's his website : www.8secsplash.net.
Jefe, yes thats it. Have you seen the 'free floating rocker arm' method, mentioned on the ranger station? I've been curious about it, but i havent read anyones who has tried it hah
Maxium, awesome info dude. I apperciate it. Total seal looks like a good company http://www.totalseal.com/. I guess it would be smart to go through the bottom end before i buy parts, since i might not need rings! (haha wishfull thinkin)
Cloyes is sold on rockauto for pretty cheap.
Ford Lifters are actually a couple bucks cheaper then the Sealed Power brand. I'd prolly replace these since im nearin 200k anyway. Thanks again
Okay guys I got my truck back together this past weekend and I used stock length pushrods instead of getting longer ones. Heh... big mistake. It runs and I can drive it but you can tell its not using the full potential of the cam. What I'm curious about is what if you have a machine shop take .025 off the bottom of the pedestals for the rockers? Would that make the difference of pushrod length? Or would it just jack my vavletrane geometry? I dont see that it could kill the geometry that much and would allow the cam to work. Plus I have two sets of rockers so I can experiment. Its pretty easy to get to and might not cost as much.
Im leary of that because the pushrod/rockarms are known to take most of the abuse (weak link) in the OHV... Machining them smaller might make them wear that much quicker. Maybe not, i dont have factual evidence.
LOL. Good answer! I was asked the same question when I started to lift my truck. But why its an Explorer? I have never taken no for an answer unless its realy obvious and so far I have been lucky 50% of the time.
Thanks...lol! I'm hoping I land on the working 50% of the time. I have the rockers sitting here. Now which machinist to ask for a favor. Is there an evil grin smiley anywhere?
Well to all the nay sayers I stick out my tounge. I had .025 removed from the bottom of the rocker pedestals has proven itself worthy. The motor purrs like it should. With a little hint of the heavier cam. I'm very pleased. So there are other options out there. Longevity will be the next test.